I know it's hard to tell from photos, but I'm hoping to get some feedback on a shifting issue.

My SRAM GX Eagle setup isn't shifting properly. Limit screws and B-tension are set correctly using the tool, and both the chain and cassette are brand new.

Recently, the chain started dropping off the upper derailleur pulley toward the inside (spokes side) whenever I shift down to the smallest cogs.

The derailleur hanger looks straight, and since it's on a titanium frame, the hanger is quite beefy/tough. However, the derailleur cage itself looks bent inward toward the wheel. I'm not sure if that inward angle is normal or if the cage is bent.

Overtime because I have to leave my bike outside and use it in the winter, my screws get rusted.

I tried putting electrical tape on some screws but it only helped a little but it still rust.

Is there anything I can do to protect the screws from rusting?

Seller does not want to confirm the return. They were too big. Am I in the wrong?

My multitool snapped off inside a bolt on my rear disc brake. The broken-off piece of the multitool is silver and is stuck in the black bolt.

Does anyone know how I can get it back out?

Hi. My wife got a factory new 2025 Look 765 Optimum 105. After the first ride I noticed that the brake pads do not make full contact with the disc as if the calipers were mounted 5mm too high/too far. It's a 160/140 mm disc setup with SM-RT70 rotors and 105 hydraulic brakes. The back is mounted directly onto the frame. Is that the problem with the frame or the pads or perhaps something else?

Edit : My issue is that the rotor 'circle' - the actual disc is about 2cm wide but only 1.5cm of it makes the contact with the pad. This look unusual. Is this a road bike thing? All my MTBs make full contact with the pad.

Just starting a project converting a 1997 steel rockhopper frame into my winter weather commuter bike. First time installing Velo Orange fenders on a bike, anticipating some hurdles but excited for the challenge, I love riding but have a lot to learn in the mechanic space.

First obstacle I’m encountering is mounting the front fender to the fork crown, from what I can tell the L bracket isn’t long enough to get the fender to a proper position inside the brake calipers, the daruma bolt isn’t long enough to get the fender low either.

Anticipating a hangup when I try to mount the rear rack and fender stays to the same rear braze-on.

If anyone has any helpful experience with sort of install or can point me in the right direction of resources I’d appreciate it.

Wondering if anyone has any

Is there any proper way to space this chaingring inward to align it with the center cog? I don't think narrower BB would even work.

Or am I forced to go crank shopping?

I've had this bike for 3 weeks. The small rubber dots I had stuck on have rubbed through the paint in a small patch. I've removed the dots, and I'm not seeing any tire or wheel rub.

No visible weave, fuzzy or frayed fibres, or whitish patches

The exposed area has a carbon-coloured shine

It's smooth to the touch

It feels firm, with no flex or soft spot

It’s on both sides

(I’ve wiped away some of the mud for clearer photos)

I’m 99% sure it’s just the paint that been work through, but still it’d be nice with a second opinion : ]

Need a new inner tube for a tyre with a stated 26 x 2.1 dimensions. I have the choice between 1.5 - 2.1 or 2.1 - 27 sizes. Which would be the best size to get? Would the larger one be slightly less prone to punctures as it would not be so stretched when inflated??

Not sure if this is technically a maintenance or repair question but I thought it fit this subreddit the best. Few months ago I was on a casual "ride whatever" ride when someone on a 26" fatbike ran over a shard of metal and popped their tube. I stopped to try and help but couldn't really do anything because the tube was more or less ripped open. Tire itself seemed okay enough to ride on. Someone else had a spare butyl 26x2" tube but the guy didn't want to risk it because he had 4" tires. A bunch of us tried making the case that butyl stretches and it'd be fine for carefully going back home on even if he was too uncomfortable using it to finish the ride with. But he was expecting it to basically just be a timebomb if he put any weight on it. So he carried his bike back to the road and called a ride.

This led me to thinking, would it have been fine? Or would it have popped? If it's a probability thing what would the probability roughly be of it immediately failing? I feel like as long as the slash in the tire wasn't so large that the tube is poking through, it would have been fine for getting home on. Am I right or wrong in thinking this?

Hello all! I was wondering if anyone recognizes the maker/logo of this hub? It almost appears like a Dawes but slightly off, the wheelset aswell is quite the enigma as there doesn't seem to be any information on it even on the Carbon Cycles website blog. Any help is appreciated! 🤙

Hi everyone,

I'm trying to diagnose a strange problem with the rear wheel on my 2020 Cannondale CAADX gravel bike, and I'd appreciate some input from people with experience working on quick-release wheels, hubs, and frame dropouts.

The problem

My rear wheel consistently ends up off-center toward the left side of the frame. When this happens, the tire gets noticeably closer to the left chainstay and can rub against the frame, particularly when the bike is under load.

The unusual part is that I can manually reposition the wheel so that it sits centered, tighten the quick-release (QR), and confirm that the wheel is firmly secured. However, after riding, it gradually returns to the same off-center position.

What I've observed

• The wheel can be centered manually. I can adjust its position so that the tire has more even clearance on both sides of the frame.
• The wheel appears to be fully seated in both dropouts. I've checked this repeatedly and am confident that the axle is sitting where it should.
• The QR clamps the wheel firmly. Once tightened, the wheel has no noticeable sideways play when I try to wiggle it by hand.
• When the QR is released, the axel have some play, I think this is normal but what's strange is that the resting position of the axel makes the wheel lean towards that left side
• The wheel doesn't stay centered after riding. Despite being centered and securely clamped beforehand, it ends up shifted toward the left side again.
• The tire sometimes rubs against the frame. This is particularly noticeable when force is applied to the bike.
• The behavior is repeatable. I can correct the alignment manually, but the problem comes back after riding.

Please feel free to ask more questions to help diagnose this weird issue, any input will be very much appreciated!

Hey guys me and my girlfriend both bought new bikes which arrived with already assembled shifters, brakes etc. from different online shops (Giant Tcr and Trek Madone). Both with 105 Di2. Included with each bike amongst the other stuff like reflectors and spare parts was a curved backup plate for the support screw. Now whenever I Google it says you absolutely need to have the backup plate in place especially with the carbon frame but on neither of bikes I could see whether the supposedly also available straight plate is already in place. Is it even needed in this type of assembly of the di2?

I have no clue how this is supposed to be reinstalled, if anyone knows I would seriously appreciate the information. Thanks!

Also it’s a Shimano deore FD-MT60

I leave for Colombia in 2 days to ride the Rigo (and 8 more days of riding after that). Installed a larger cassette for the climbs so was in the Shimano app to program out the big-big ring combo. Had a firmware update available so figured why not. Let the iPhone screen go dark during the update & my shit is bricked. I've tried pulling batteries, pulling the wireless unit, using a high voltage usb AC charger - everything ChatGPT. HELP ME!!!

Noticed a bunch of fine circular lines/scratches on my rear rotor (SRAM). Brakes seem to work ok but I'm not sure if this is normal wear or a sign something's wrong, like glazing.

Thanks

Recently I bought a used but well taken cared of road bike, across a few days and aapproximately 100 kilometers driven, the handle bars creak when I put the weight of my hands and upper body on it, when I stubble upon a harsh road or so, the stem doesnt move, I degreassed and reassembled all the bolts, however, it does feel like the creaking comes from the part where the bars meet the attaching aluminium.

So the noise occurs only when I press my weight on it or stumble upon a tough road (lower noise).

Bolts have been degreassed and lubricated and assembled evenly.

I searched for cracks on the bar, there are none.

By what I could deduce, there was no moving of the stem or headset, when I turn it doesn't produce a noise.

I could not find any assembly paste that I could use but the parts are clean.

I would appreciate good help, as a visit to a service costs too much. (:

I recently bought an old SL4 Tarmac used and have been fixing it up. I’m guessing it’s time to get a chain ring, or is there some life still left in it?

GP5000 S TR with 300-400miles. Noticed this on my rear wheel. Is this safe to repair or am I unlucky?
Edit: it holds are fine, but want to be safe since my rides average 20mph regularly

Felt there was play in my cranks and a clicking noise once per crank revolution so I wanted to see where it came from.

Turns out it's from the BB, should I replace it ? Thanks

I just received a replacement axle for my Shimano hub and I noticed the little rubber o-ring on the new axle (bottom) is pressed against the cone, while on the old axle (top), it was further back on the threads. What is the correct position? What does that part do?

Pretty sure I should've never unscrewed it but I fucked up now