I'm Japanese, based in Japan, and I've shipped dozens of sets of used Japanese wheels to the US with FedEx.

Same kind of wheels, same documents, three different duty rates (photos, personal info blacked out):

- Photo 1, about 2.5%: my FedEx duty bill. The Japan auto parts line (HTS 9903.94.43) was left off. Looks cheap, but it can get billed again later.

- Photo 2, about 15%: shipped the same day. This is the right one. Since Sept 2025, Japanese auto parts are capped at 15% total under the US-Japan deal.

- Photo 3, 27.5%: the CBP entry summary. 9903.94.43 at 15% is there, but a general 12.5% Japan line (9903.05.49) got stacked on top.

A perfect certificate of origin didn't change anything. What decides it is which lines end up on the entry.

So the duty you're quoted isn't always what gets charged. And the pricier the part, the bigger the hit. On a $2,000 set of wheels, 15% vs 27.5% is $250. On a $5,000 set, it's $625.

Before you pay, ask the seller: if the duty comes in higher, or gets billed again later, who covers it? It's often left vague, and if nobody agreed on it, you may be the one who gets the bill.

If you've already imported wheels, divide the duty by what you paid for the wheels. Around 15% is normal. Around 27.5%, you probably overpaid.

Not selling anything here, no links. I want to collect what actually goes wrong when people buy wheels from Japan, so the next person knows before they pay.

What's the worst surprise you've had? Duty, shipping, damage, wheels not matching the listing, anything. I'll reply to each one with what I know from the Japan side. If I don't know, I'll say so.

I’m looking at stripping and polishing a set of factory cast aluminium Chevy Camaro wheels to a mirror finish.
I’ve attached a photo of the wheels. They’re currently factory silver painted, and I’d be doing the work myself, mainly by hand, with access to basic power tools and polishing attachments.

I’m wondering how realistic it is to achieve a proper chrome-like mirror finish on cast aluminium wheels like these, especially with all the contours and recessed sections.

Has anyone done something similar? Roughly how many hours per wheel would you expect, and is the casting itself likely to limit the finish?
Any advice or photos of similar projects would be appreciated.

They are what I presume to be genuine Enkeis judging by the labels on the inside

Hey guys, need some opinions on this.
I’m currently running 15” Thai-made TC105N-style wheels on my 2012 Toyota Vios (Yaris sedan) NCP93. Recently came across someone offering a straight swap for his older 15” Enkei 8-spoke rims.

Went to check them out in person and they look pretty decent overall. There are some minor paint chips and scratches here and there, but nothing too crazy from what I could see. The owner said they were already like that when he got them, so I’m not sure if they’ve been refurbished before.

Personally, I’m leaning towards the Enkei because I like that old-school look, but I’m still on the fence.
What do you guys think?

Would you keep the TC105N-style wheels (2nd image)or go for the Enkei?

Am I cooked?

The ring is hard stuck and corroded onto the wheel. Is it still possible to get it off?

Can someone maybe figure out what lock this could be? Its a 2002 altima v6 se (just got it today 😝)

can anyone recommend any reputable sellers on alibaba? looking for 13"-14" jdm looking wheels like advan rg's or works

Hi everyone, i recently finished fixing a set of bbs rc041 for my car, unfortunatelly when i bought them, they were missing the centre caps. I have been trying to find used ones online, but the majority of them are in the UK and the cost of customs duties is almost the price of the caps themselves, i was wondering if someone know someplace that sells the waffle plates in plastic as an affordable alternative. Thanks for your time

Ref picture of wheels:

I'm trying to fit older OEM lexus tires that use flat-style nuts onto the 2022-2026 generation which use spherical seating bolts. I need mag-style bolts to do so but I dont know if these exist sadly. What are my options?

Just grabbed these cheap off of marketplace and I’d love to be able to find some centercaps. Yall got any clue what they are? They look like early 2000’s AR-95 reps but I cant find anything. Thanks in advance!

Is anyone else running work shigoku 18x9.5J +38 on GR86? I’m looking into buying a set but I would like to see some confirmed fitment with brembos and coilovers.

I’m mostly looking into bronze twin 5 spoke wheels, so any recommendations better than Work Shigoku are also welcome!

I just pulled off my coilovers and swapped back to OEM stock suspension. The car lifted almost 1.5 inches, and the front is sitting noticeably higher than the rear (reverse rake).

Right now I’m running 17x8 wheels with 225/45R17 tires. With the new stock height, the tire gap is huge and the current setup looks way too small in the wheel well.

I’ll likely upgrade to 18s next year, but for now I want to flush out the setup on these 17x8s.

245s look the best on an 8" rim but they rub if the suspension bottoms out so I'd rather stick with 225s.

Would you go with 225/50/17 or 225/55/17? I want to fill in that massive gap slightly and I think 225/55/17 would do it.

Also has anyone added a rear spacer on stock suspension to level out the rake on a stock subaru?

The picture with the snow is how the car looked on the coilovers (lowered and raked forward). The most recent pictures are from today/yesterday showing the massive space above both wheel wells (most notably the front).

21” Vossen HFX-2

Hey guys, sharing our 24x14 forged wheel currently going through CNC machining.

Made from 6061-T6 monoblock forged aluminum, we hold tight tolerances and run full QC through production.

We do full customization: custom spoke style, PCD, offset, center bore, surface finish, and private logo engraving.

We are the direct factory, so wholesale, dealer and OEM custom builds are welcome.

If you are looking for a fully custom forged wheel for your truck build, feel free to reach out.

Hi everyone,

I’m opening a website where I am trying to help people find the right fitment and setup for their project car.

Every time I’ve bought wheels I’ve ended up digging through old forum threads and blurry Instagram photos trying to work out whether a certain size and offset would actually sit right on my car, and what I’d like to do to make it fit. So I’m building a free fitment gallery where owners post their exact setup:
- wheel size and offset
- tyre size
- suspension
- camber, spacers, any mods it took (rolled arches)

The idea is that before you buy a set, you can look up your chassis and see what people are actually running on it.

It’s called Lipd (lipd.co.uk). It’s free and I’m based in UK. I will be adding a marketplace for wheels later on, but for now I just want to get the gallery going with real cars instead of an empty pave.

If you are happy to share yours, you can post it here: https://lipd.co.uk/fitment/submit

It takes couple of minutes. You get credited with your name or Instagram, and every post is checked before it goes up.

I’d also really like your opinion: when someone posts their setup, what info do you always wish they’d include? Anything you’d want a site like this to do?

Thanks for reading, and I’ll reply to everyone in the comments.

Big stance energy🔥

30×16 custom forged wheels ready to ship.

Massive width for that aggressive truck look.

Precision CNC‑machined, fully inspected before packing.

Custom offsets, bolt patterns and finishes on demand

#RobustWheels #ForgedWheels #TruckWheels #CustomWheels #BigRims #30x16 #WheelWholesale #OffroadWheels

Can't decide on whst rims to get,any help would be appreciated

Just finished this set at our factory and wanted to share it here. The A110 is one of those cars where magnesium actually makes sense to me. It's only around 1100kg, so taking weight off the wheels makes more of a difference than on some heavy sedan.

Fitment for anyone curious: front 18x8 ET33, rear 18x9 ET38, 5x114.3, 66.15 CB. Forged AZ80, gunmetal finish.

Since mag always gets questions, here's what I tell people before they order one. Corrosion is the real thing to think about. As long as the coating is intact it's fine, but if you curb it and chip through the finish, get it touched up soon, don't leave it bare for months. And skip the acid wheel cleaners, just use pH neutral soap.

It also costs quite a bit more than forged 6061, and honestly for a lot of daily cars I'd tell people to just go aluminum. A light car that does canyon runs or track days is where mag pays off.

Happy to answer anything about mag vs aluminum or the fitment.

Hi everyone,

Does anyone know what torque spec I should use for the bolts holding the face of the wheel to the barrel please? They're currently being powder coated and I want to get them reassembled fairly quickly once I get them back.

I have new bolts and will be using blue loctite.

There's 19 bolts (20th would be where the valve goes) and they're M8x1.25 25mm. The only thing I've seen online so far has been someone saying "they need less torque than you think" but not giving a figure unfortunately.

Any help would be appreciated 😁