Everyone here parrots the same advice about getting a PPI on a used car and at the same time spouts some dumb advice to only buy a pristine Toyota off of marketplace for no more than $5000 dollars. News flash to the people here but the cheap good cars you are not going to be able to get inspected, so for the love of god please stop calling literally every car overpriced or saying some dumb shit like “I wOuLnD’T pAy MoRe ThAn 4k FoR tHaT!!!” Because some people actually have a job and a life and don’t have infinite time to sit on their ass scrolling on marketplace for the absolute perfect deal. Seeing the same dumbass advice here when I’m just trying to find useful information gets old fast.

I know the used car market sucks, but I can't understand how it is SO competitive trying to buy a used car right now.

I saw a decent 2007 Toyota Sienna for sale on craigslist and reached out to the seller just a few hours after he posted it yesterday. I called him today to arrange a time to come check it out in person and he said there is already a guy coming by later with cash and a trailer, ready to buy it on the spot. He said if I could pay him in cash before the other guy, he'd give it to me.

It is absolutely ridiculous to me that people are ready to throw money down on the spot for a nearly 20 year old used car... This gives absolutely no time to arrange a pre purchase inspection, which clearly isn't an issue for the other potential buyer.

I can almost guarantee the other potential buyer is a reseller from a used car dealership. I'm sure he knows people will pay well over MSRP for a 20 year old used car just because it's a Toyota.

I'm not sure if this is specific to the area I live in, but it drives me nuts how stupidly competitive trying to buy a used car has become.

Edit: I'm so shocked by some of the responses here. I assume most of them are car flippers judging by how angry they seem to be over trying to get a ppi before purchasing a car.

I find it suspicious as hell if a seller is hesitant or outright refuses to let the buyer get a ppi (with their own money!). It does not make the seller's transaction any more difficult, especially when the buyer is footing the bill and coordinating the timing with the mechanic.

It is completely reasonable to get a ppi before making a large purchase on a vehicle. If you think otherwise, you are delusional or probably a scam artist.

Reliable and ready to go

125,000 miles

Clean title

$5800

Chicago; Illinois

A mutual friend of mine shared a post this lady posted. Legit account. Older woman from my hometown. Posts her grandkids, normal stuff, and then posted she has a 2020 honda accord for sale for $3,700.

I’ve been looking for a car so I message her and these are our messages so far. Won’t send VIN and says she wants a deposit asap???? And sent me her address and said she’s willing to meet tomorrow

I’m so confused what sort of scam this is / why she wouldn’t trade in the car or what is going on i feel like when a deal is too good to be true it holds accurate but i’m like actually confused considering this is an account my mutual friend knows & has a facebook history

Is this a common scam or what is going on???

No mechanical or electrical issues

Excellent Condition

Clean title

$4500

Looking for a “reliable beater” and a simple, older vehicle that I can learn to DIY

He wants $3,000 firm

I4 M5 RWD
213,000 miles
He’s owned it since 2003
Recently replaced tires and fuel pump
Temperature gauge is broken, but the motor doesn’t overheat.
No known issues with the powertrain, steering, suspension, or electrical
Runs and drives fine with no peculiar sounds on a 10 minute test drive
Doesn’t burn oil
Surface corrosion, but no rust holes or flakes
Sits a lot
A/C needs recharge and needs compressor
No service records, but he tends to keep his vehicles well maintained and gently used

This was from a quick visit with them, I haven’t had it professionally inspected.

Hey everyone,

I've save up around 20000 cad to buy my first car.

I've been looking around at used cars, but I'm pretty new to car buying and don't want to make an expensive mistake with my savings.

I'm looking for something that's reliable, relatively affordable to maintain, good on gas (or electric), and comfortable enough for highway driving. I don't necessarily need anything fancy, but I would like something that I can enjoy driving and keep for a few years.

A few questions I have:

1. What cars would you recommend for a budget of $20K CAD? Are there any particular makes, models, or years that offer the best value?
2. What should I watch out for when buying used? Any major red flags, common scams, or things dealerships try to sneak in?
3. How much mileage is too much? Would you rather buy an older car with lower mileage or a newer one with higher mileage?
4. How much should I budget for additional costs? Things like taxes, insurance, inspections, maintenance, and unexpected repairs.
5. Private seller vs. dealership? Which would you recommend for someone buying their first car?

I'm not in a rush to buy, and I'm willing to spend some time researching and finding the right deal.

Since this is money I've worked hard to save, I'd really appreciate any advice on how to get the most value out of it and avoid getting ripped off.

Thanks in advance!

I think its time to upgrade to a more tune and modable car
I think my price is reasonable

I’m looking to buy used option 1
2014 Toyota rav4 xle 1 owner 35k miles asking $20250
Option 2 2018 toyota rav4 limited 1 owner 110k miles asking $15700

I do own 2 rav4 2013 n 2021 need one for daily commute about 50 miles for me or wife as one will be going to our daughter.

I live in the DFW metropolex so I'm in stop and go v traffic daily. Does anyone have any recommendations for a vehicle with strong adaptive cruise control? I'm looking for something that will do most of the heavy lifting for me and damn near drive itself on the highway.

I'm looking in the 2018-2023 range.

Let me knownif you're interested

Clean title

AWD

NO rust

No mechanical or electrical issues

$6300

Location l: Chicago IL USA

Hi everyone! I am looking at buying a 2006 Toyota RAV4 with the 2.4L engine, 210,000 km, and an asking price of $8,500 CAD in BC

The seller says it has had quite a bit of recent maintenance and repairs done, including:

• New transmission (2026)
• New front struts and coils
• New rear links
• Wheel alignment
• New alternator
• New water pump belt
• New O2 sensor
• New iridium spark plugs
• New tires (2025)
• Brake fluid service
• Rear differential service

However, the seller also mentioned a minor water pump leak and something about the timing chain tensioner. I'm still trying to clarify exactly what's going on with those issues??

I'm looking for a reliable vehicle that I can keep for several years, so I'm wondering whether this is a reasonable buy or not.

I don't know too much about cars, and these are my main questions:

1. How concerned should I be about the 2.4L engine's known oil consumption issues?
2. How serious or expensive could a water pump leak or timing chain tensioner issue be?
3. Does having a replacement transmission make this a better buy, or could it be a red flag?

110k miles with great maintenance history. Timing chain done at 80k and turbo replaced at 97k.
Asking $10k but would take $9k.

Other option is 2014 A6 3.0 with 73k miles. Stellar carfax but no timing chain or turbo work. So I’m assuming that hit would come soon to the tune of $4k -$6k. Asking $12k

Or keep looking Japanese.

I sold a vehicle to Peddle nearly a year ago. Just yesterday I got a letter from a person stating they purchased the vehicle a while back and accidently signed the title in the wrong place. When they went back to the dealership it was out of business. Long story short, they’re asking me to request a duplicate title so that he can correct it. They even sent me a pic of the title with my name on it.

The whole thing sounds sketchy. I can’t say I know all of the ins and outs of titling a vehicle, but is this a scam?

I’m looking into buying a used 2023 I4 OOS.

However I have conflicting information regarding what the PPI and dealer gave me.

PPI said brakes are 9mm front 3mm rear, fronts already replaced. Dealer is saying 10mm front 8 mm rear. PPI said 85-90 percent battery health, dealer produced tests showing 100.

What is going on here? I don’t understand why the differences are so large.

I have a 2014 Volkswagen Jetta that has not given me too much trouble, but recently developed an issue that prevents it from starting. My mechanic looked at it and thought that it might be the sensor that regulates how the engine is cooled. (forgive me if I am not explaining it correctly I am not a car expert)

Currently my dashboard is all lit up. My speedometer doesn’t work and my brake light engine light are constantly on, and the gas gauge goes from what it actually has in the tank to empty and fluctuates back-and-forth. I keep the car maintained and it is not neglected in the slightest.

Mechanically, the only thing that I’ve had done is the air-conditioning compressor and the line that feeds into it that was replaced.

My mechanic is not able to address the dashboard computer issue and suggested the only way to get it resolved it to take it to the dealership due to it being computer/dash issue, however I am concerned that the cost to repair it will be excessive and I’m concerned that there will be more issues that come up with the vehicle after this repair.

I’m curious if anyone has experienced this with Volkswagen before and if my inclination towards seeking out to replace my vehicle, makes sense considering how much the repair on the Volkswagen might cost.

Also, I don’t know whether or not I’d be able to trade this car in because it doesn’t start. It tries to and sounds like it’s gonna but it doesn’t. Other than that, It has run beautifully with no issues, no noises, no problems at all.

I live in the Dallas-Fort Worth metropolex. This means I'm in touch and go traffic constantly. I really want my next vehicle to do most of the heavy lifting on the highway for me. I've been looking at Subaru and I'm hearing 2022 and up has the highest level of adaptive cruise control standard across all trims.

Is there full lane centering that will do most of the steering work + the distance keeping?

Is there start and stop that will resume driving after a complete stop?

Any help would be appreciated.

Hi! I bought a used Volvo in March from a dealership in GR Michigan. I got it inspected that day from a different Volvo dealership and was given the green light on it. They said it has no issues and was in amazing shape. A few weeks later it started to make a squeaky noise and so I took it to a private mechanic in my area. They quoted me 6k in repairs. I thought they were on crack and left. I have since taken it to 8 other mechanic shops and some won’t even touch it due to the amount of rust. They’re all still quoting in the 6k+ range. I’m at a loss of what to do the car isn’t worth 6k in repairs.

Repairs recommended:
Front
- Struts, sway bar links, and CV shaft, rotors, brake pads, calipers and hoses.

Rear
- Struts, shocks, sway bar links, rotors, brake pads, brake calipers and hoses

Would this be worth taking a look at? Asking 3k, seems a bit high for 190k. I know the cvts of this gen are problematic, but what about stick?