I am a locksmith and just finished painting this safe. I think it is a Mosler. It’s a little more ruff in persons that these pictures. I have not done the inside yet. My question is, what’s this worth? It is 30x28x27 and probably 1200lbs

I put a brand new lock on it so it’s worth at least $100 for that.

Any and all other info would be great if you know anything.

I'm planning to get a safe for my home to store documents, jewelry and a few other valuables. Fire protection is important to me, but I'd also like something that isn't easy for someone to pry open or carry away. The more I read about safes, the more I'm realizing that fire resistance and burglary protection aren't necessarily the same thing.

What models or brands would you suggest looking into if I want a reasonable balance of both? I'd appreciate hearing from people who have owned one for a while. Thanks!

Found this searching an abandoned house. Tiny two bedroom, frame house... why would you need this enormous safe?

1993 digital combo. My code quit working during my office rehab and now get error 3 beeps.

Would like to try default combo before I drill into it. Thanks

Safe hasn’t been in use in over 10 years and nobody knows the code. Tried calling and they wouldn’t give us the factory code, and we don’t have any locksmith friends who can call for us to get it.

I do service for banks, but haven't had the privilege of any actual safe and vault training, I've just learned on the job over the years. But this vault door from probably somewhere between 1910-1945 (that guess is based off of a picture of a 1912 door of the same design, and York being bought by Diebold in 1946), and it's getting hard to swing open and closed. There are lubrication fittings on the hinges that look like oilers you'd find on the slideways of a milling machine. There's a little bit of what looks like hardened grease poking out of the gaps in the hinges, so there's no telling what is and isn't in there.

Has anyone worked on any kind of crane hinge vault door and know what lubricant it wants? I've got a jug of spoiled "bank vault oil" in the back of the office from who knows when that I don't want to use, and I've heard of people using anything from gear oil to Lucas Red 'N Tacky. I'd prefer not to make this door never open again, so any advice is appreciated.

So this is an old safe I purchased locally on Facebook. I had an SV500 and that was mounted to an old dresser, but I just didn't like the setup. I've decided to try again because I got a REALLY good deal on this locally. Very similar safe.

My main question is if anyone has figured out a design that works or ever thought of it. I want to get a bracket of some sort that will slide down into the slot between my bed/boxspring and my bed frame. I'm thinking of like a U shaped bracket online that is meant for barricading doors with a 2x4, but that opening is too wide and will just wobble. I'm not worried about someone picking up the safe and running out as my EDC will be in it, just placed inside for home defense next to my bed. I could make that bracket work by putting ply wood or something on 2 of them and then mounting this safe to the plywood but trying to see if anyone can come up with a better idea. The bed frame itself that this bracket with wrap around is approximately 1.25" and I need a way to make sure its sturdy enough (length wise) to keep it from just falling/breaking with force when opening the safe itself.

Was wondering if anyone knows anything about it? The lock is open but locked. Has kind of a key and was hoping to figure out the combination or a guess how many numbers or how to unlock it.

I have a Mosler and Bahmann safe that I got and the combination dials are missing from the inside. Ive been searching around to replace the missing parts but cant find any since its an older safe. Here are some pictures of it if anyone has some helpful information about parts or a replacement lock assemby I could put in to make it work correctly. Thanks for the help

Hi all not sure if this is the right place to ask - delete if not allowed. This safe is for sale locally for $450. Would a $350-$400 offer be fair? As you can see it has a dent on the right side. Fair buy?

Does anyone know about this safe. My father had it at his business for 50+ years and my grandfather before him. It’s peeling and in poor condition on the outside but the inside is very nice with original painting writing. The locking mechanism works perfect. Smooth mechanics to the locking and unlocking of the safe. Thank you in advance.

From a defensive standpoint is it best to place the Safe in the right corner of a room or left? I’m considering which side would give someone the least amount of leverage.

If the Safe is in the left corner with the hinges on the right side, I think this would be preferable because the wall would be in the way of say, a crowbar or a prybar. Thoughts?

Old J Baum safe. No combination.

How hard would this be to manipulate open?

Do yours all go in the safe when they’re off the wrist or do some stay out? What's the best way to set up the inside of a safe for watches?

Hi all,

I purchased a Liberty safe about two months ago. It has a SecuRam electronic keypad. Last week, I went to open my safe and I cannot do so. I put my code in like normal and it seemingly accepts the code, but there is no “mechanical” sound indicating the safe is unlocking like I normally hear. About five seconds after I enter the code, it does two quick beeps. After that, it just won’t unlock.

I know for 100% certain my code is correct. I’ve tried three different brand new batteries. I don’t think I have anything in the way that would impede the safes ability to open. I don’t know what to do.

I’m beyond frustrated with Liberty. I’ve called endless times. I’ve emailed. I need a birth certificate out of my safe ASAP. I’ve called a locksmith and was quoted $700 to get it open, which I will do but that seems a bit high (correct me if I’m wrong). Has anyone else dealt with this before? I’d appreciate any insight.

I have an older STANDERS Easy Key safe built into a wall in the closet in my home. I have the original double-bit key, but it only turns a few degrees before hitting a hard stop.
I tried gentle pressure on the door, a little WD-40, and even had a replacement key made. Nothing worked. There was previously significant moisture around the safe, so corrosion might be the issue.
I don’t mind damaging the safe to get it open, but I’d prefer to do it myself.
Has anyone dealt with this model or a similar problem? Any suggestions for getting it open safely?
Photo attached. Thanks!

I just need to know model name and number plz

And does it require the key to open ?

I am trying to find a safe or lock box that is fire resistant to store my documents and found this one, would it be a good one to get?

Looking for a new fire/burglar safe - stuck between the Mesa MBF2620 vs the Liberty Home 8. They seem very similar. I'm more familiar with Liberty as a brand but Mesa seems to have a better fireproof rating. Would appreciate any input, personal experiences with either brand or other recommendations that might fit a similar class. Thanks.

So, I bought a house and the seller left a safe at the house. It's open, but when i called the seller to ask him if he forgot it, he said he doesn't want it because he doesn't have the combination.

My question is : Is there a way to change the combination without the previous one so that this becomes usable or is it just a giant paper weight?

It's a Sargent & Greenleaf inc. mecanical dial