(Realtor) My clients are buying a new construction build in South Carolina. This sheathing looks pretty lousy, but I'm not smart on roofing. Does this need to be redone? On what grounds? Thank you!

It was almost time for my new roof to go up, so I had an HVAC technician come out and service my rooftop AC unit plus the furnace in my house. Very thorough, chatted a lot, explaining things. We talked about my gas tank water heater too, since it is 26 years old and had a leak. I’m planning to replace it after my new roof goes up. The guy leaves. Let’s assume everything is looking good at this point.

The next week my new roof goes up, all good, no issues.

A week later it’s time to deal with the gas water heater. The contractor from the water heater company comes out to give an estimate and immediately discovers the gas water heater’s exhaust vent pipe had been disturbed - elevated by a full 12-14” and was allowing combustion gases to vent into the house (our water heater is in a closet off thr dining room). He also notices the furnace’s exhaust vent pipe has shifted upward (the furnace is also in the closet - it’s a big closet of 135 cubic feet), partially separating it from its connection. He yanks them back down and into place.

What do I say to the roofing company?

Extra details: California home. 1950s. Combination smoke / CO2 detector is 8’ away and gave no alerts. Kids and wife all got sick within the last week (classic cold symptoms only for them, whereas I had a cold and a headache for a few days). Just about all fully recovered.

This is a reroof on our townhouse complex the roofer said he is done and it meets gold plate warranty which we have
What is everyone else thoughts he is now saying gutters are to low but they were never touched and now he wants more money
Does this look ok or very bad workmanship

Homeowner here: I’m going to chalk it up to colder temperatures, but the attic where I had the box is much warmer than outside (about 50 degrees today). Last time I did this (same roll btw) years ago it was end of summer and I remember it sticking to itself and giving me a hard time rolling it out. Is it a good sign that hitting it with a heat gun seemed to promote adhesion to the deck? I may just have to run an extension and hit all areas. Or would a hotter (60’s or 70’s) day with a blast of sunshine do the trick? The deck is clean and I’ve removed the brown paper backing. Good thing is no wrinkles I guess. I used cap nails for now.

Hello,

We've had our roof for about 10 years now and earlier this week, I noticed a few shingles that had damage on them, most likely from a cat\possum. Is this something I could patch with some type of glue\paste or do the shingles need to be replaced? Thanks in advance!

Location: Orange County, CA

Edit

Thank you everyone. The answer is I need a drip edge.

Original

I don't know why I didn't notice before but I don't have any drip edges. My fascia is stained cedar.

Is the lack of drip edges a problem?

Want to do something to prevent water ingress. For the bit of exposed wood — would a sealant patching compound suffice or should I apply a spray or expanding foam first? For the giant gaps under the vents— expanding foam filler?

Wife is concerned about the existing skylights that are not getting replaced. Is it ok to have the new OSB resting on them?

My understanding is that the step flashed examples show a more professional quality job. Going around the area I came across examples of both methods. If done without steps is that considered against the best practice, but an acceptable shortcut. Is step flashing just an indication of a more experienced roofer with quality in mind?

Not a roofer, and by stepped flashing I'm assuming when the visual has stepped looking material, that is stepped flashing. Like the second photo. Are both methods considered acceptable by the standards makers? If not then there is a bunch of bad work being done.

Ok, I get that nothing is impossible. But more more impossibly expensive.

This is an old wooden NZ house.

We have a dropped living room floor, the room is maybe 6m by 6m. This room only joins the rest of the house on one side which is 3 steps higher and this floor is level with the rest of the house.

I want to pop the ceiling up to allow for enough room to raise the floor to create a usable footprint. My partner says absolutely not. So I said what about dropping the main connecting floor (which I think would be more painful and create two stepped locations). He just rolls his eyes. There is room to drop the floor, but this feels like way more work to me.

The ceilings are raked if that matters?

Do people do this kind of thing, or is my partner right and I am dreaming?

Hello everyone I’m 24 year old who just began my start up roofing company and we specialize in anything from single ply, torch down low slope roofs, shingles, and sheetmetal roofs and siding , I keep struggling to stay profitable in some of the jobs that I’ve been completing , and my question is what would be a correct way to put a price on the material I install , I’ve gotten different answers to this from other outfits but I feel like I’d be over charging, and guidance from the veterans out there would help

I recently had my roof replaced, which included tearing out the old torch-down material and redoing my built-in (mopboard) gutters with a PVC membrane.

Upon inspection, I noticed there is loose debris—specifically loose nails and wood particles—trapped directly underneath the newly installed PVC liner.

Is it acceptable for a roofing contractor to leave debris under a fresh PVC gutter lining, or should the wood decking have been swept entirely clean before the membrane was fastened? I am concerned that walking on the roof for maintenance or the constant water weight in the gutters could cause these loose nails to puncture the PVC over time.

Has anyone dealt with a similar issue during a built-in gutter installation? Any advice on how to approach the contractor about this would be greatly appreciated!

A short while ago I posted whether I needed a drip edge on my roof - https://www.reddit.com/r/Roofing/s/oR323Yei3Y . Answer: yes. :)

I am going to tackle the problem myself. Is this a good video to follow?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pv5wRgooNnc

I just pulled the ridge transition between my tile and flat roof so I could lay down a strip of ice and water shield. I had the flat roof replaced but they didnt want to touch the tile roof so they just tucked the bitumen under and left me a roll of ice and water shield.

The tiles were installed with galvanized nails which were mostly failing and laid some pretty scrappy looking strips of wood. I need to reinstall these tiles with copper or stainless fasteners. What would be the recommended fastener to source?

Also, quite a few are flaking on the underside. What is the cause of this? Is it just expected as they age?

Is there a recommendation for sealant or mortar to fill the joints?

Thank you!

Had a 3 season porch replaced. The old roof was flat, new one is slanted and so it had to come up higher to meet the original roof. Now that it’s done I’m having the stucco and trim repaired around the area. The work that was done especially with the flashing seems pretty terrible? Total novice but I’d like some insight on these pictures

House is 100 years old so excuse the beat up stucco, shingles are a composite rubber slate type product. They were able to source a very close match for the new roof which I was very happy about.

I recently had my entire shingle roof replaced. I noticed what I considered to be improper metal installation for the drip edge and w valley installed.

I discussed with the roofing company who stated that this was a completely standard and appropriate installation. The w valley is 1 in off the deck. Is this reasonable for an installation and am I nitpicking?

Thanks in advance

I walked on a Tesla roof yesterday. It was pretty sketchy, but got the job done but for future reference what is the best practice safety wise?

Roof above. Semi detached, how bad is this damage and what is approx cost in Canada dollars

To finish the job. Roof was completed on Aug 25th. Full deck removal and replacement . Our copper half rounds and aluminum gutters were banged up pretty badly. Showed the project manager photos of them using the copper half round gutters as footing.

We've been calling and asking for updates on when they will correct the issues.. They keep ghosting us . We have STILL NOT RECEIVED OUR FINAL BILL . They keep sending gutter contractors to our house WITHOUT contacting us first . A guy was on our roof taking down the aluminum gutters WHEN WE WEREN'T AT HOME. We were not given any notice of anyone coming. They just show up while we aren't home.

Is this normal? We have sent them several requests to NOT have anyone on the property doing any work while we are NOT home.

Yet people keep showing up while we are at work.

They can't seem to find a copper gutter guy to fix the half rounds apparently (as they sub contract out).

This is a BIG name roofing company in our area and we are trying to figure out what's going on. We called the project manager on Friday when I came home after finding the guy removing the aluminum. His truck was still running so it looked as though he was trying to do a quick one and go. Said he'd look into it and never called us back.

WTH?

I'm helping a friend go over her builder's list for the lumber order for a new low-slope patio cover at her house 2' OC 3"x6" rafters, plenty of blocking.

Getting roofed with TPO. Builder has put 3/4" CDX T&G ply on the order for decking.

Is this excessive? I've only ever put 1/2" ply down for roof sheathing, but I'm no TPO expert.

Not sure if it's mechanically fastened or glued. We live in the PNW with no crazy wind considerations.

,

After about 2 years of fighting with State Farm, finally got a check to replace my roof. Located in NE OHIO Had 3 contractors out on site to quote shingles, exposed fastener and standing seam. Prices all over the place and brands of materials I dont know. So any help letting me know if I should stay away from a certain brand or select something different is really helpful. They are only covering $11,000 after my deducible, soThank you in advanced.

Company A :

Company B:

Company C:

So right off the bat, after researching each of this brands, Tamko Heritage is a HELL NO, but not seen that many reviews on the XT line. So opinions welcome. A's standing seam seams like a really good price compared to the others I got. I standing seam worth the cost? It looks so good, but I have a hard time swallowing $25k out of pocket. What happens if we get hail down the road? Dents are covered under warranty.

Company B just seems to have high prices for everything, and after seeing their standing seam pricing just wondering if I got the FU price? But they said they were booked out 4 months on SS, so who knows. The middle shingle option is on par with company C, but their gutter install price is crazy compared to the other 2.

Company C told me moving to the Northgate shingle isnt really worth the extra cost. Something about the class 4 shingle not being worth it or something. But with the Pro shingle and gutters, they are still over 5K more expensive than the Titan XT.

I'm lost, dont know what to do. There is a 4th company I was going to reach out to but figured 3 quotes was enough. Opions please! Good/Bad/ Ugly I dont care.

I have inherited this home as part of an estate and I am also inheriting the issues. Had I been involved with this endeavor I would have raised hell, but here I am.

A new metal roof was installed 5+ years ago by a local "handyman" (it's a small coastal town in the Gulf of Mexico.) This is a 2nd home, so although the original owner knew about a leak, they were unaware of the extent.

The home has an addition, where the pitched roof transitions into a flat roof. The owner raised issue that the roof was leaking and the "handyman" made a transition to the flat roof (B in pictures). While they were installing the transition, these idiots were lazy AF and just bent up the existing panels and shoved a flat transition piece in place and sort of screwed back down (A). It continued to leak so they used spray insulation foam under the high ridges and sort of put roof tar along it as well. It was good enough for the owner at the time to call it good.

Now it's my issues; the spay foam as expected failed, the tar was illogical for a few reasons. The transition piece they installed sloped back from the flat part of the roof to the pitched part of the roof (pooled, wouldn't drain), so a family friend installed an additional extension (C). It helped but there is still a leak. I added strip foam the best I could to the sloped part of the roof (A-ish) and siliconed along its edge since it slopes towards it. The leak has slowed significantly, but it still exists.

I don't know my best approach. Rip up the bent panels/affected area and redo that section properly (water barrier was never used from my observation). Use a sealant tape or coating to cover the affected area to see if that fixes it. Redo the entire roof. Something I haven't even considered?

I work in the trades, so likely I am going to do this myself. The idea of the "easy fix" sounds great since I don't live in the area, but I also appreciate just doing it right. I've mulled this over so much that I don't know my best approach. The pictures are at various times, but show the over all scope.