I'm needing to replace my windshield and wondering who has replaced theirs with OEE and curious about your experience. There is a massive ($2k+) price difference between OEE and OEM so I'm curious. Years ago I had an RX300 and replaced a window with OEE and the difference was brutal. It was so bad I immediately swapped it out for OEM.

I have a 2020 land rover discovery HSE (gas/petrol). Since I've owned it it's been doing about 18mpg on highways (where the engine continuously stays on without the auto-start stop activating)

I recently used the GAP IIDTool to change the auto-start stop to MultiCAN-566 to MHLastUserMode and uploaded the config.. now the car is running with auto-start-stop off. (That is the only config change I've done so far)

But right after the config update the fuel consumption has dropped to about 15mpg on the highway... Since auto-start-stop never triggers on the highway the mpg should have stayed the same.

Any help is very much appreciated ..

Thanks

Ive owned my 23 Defender for a bit over a year now, and Ive generally loved it. It drives great, looks amazing, and has of course, excellent modern tech. I also have a 1992 Range Rover classic, which I drive daily, and am restoring.

But.... in July, the AC evaporator failed on my Defender, and it took my dealer 6 weeks to figure it out, and replace it. Also, when they put it back together, they scratched the hell out of the interior, and now have had it for another week plus, to replace those bits of trim and the center console. They also put the door back together wrong after fixing a bad speaker.

Granted, these are dealer specific issues to a large degree (Chantilly Land Rover), but it has soured me a bit on this truck. And to top it off, every time I drive it more than 50 miles, I worry literally every time I start it up, that the DC converter will finally go sideways. And there is still no fix in sight for that recall....

My warranty is up in March of next year, and I think I'd be stupid not to buy an extended warranty from Land Rover. So that's $5500 for 36k miles, which I will likely eat up in 2 and half years... plus my car payment itself, which isn't small.

Ive always wanted an L322, and I know what they require (timing chains, pump, coolant lines, etc). I am mechanically inclined, and do a fair but of work myself. There is also a LR specialist about 10 miles up the road, who works on L322s (drives one daily himself), classics and old Series Rovers.

So Im considering selling my Defender outright to my dealer, and getting a 12' L322, with lowest miles I can find, and replaced timing chains etc...

I do love the Defender... but I gotta say, I have soured. But I am a huge LR fan, and cannot see myself not driving a LR truck. I love them. Anyone face a similar decision?

Gap diagnostics requires you to request it and will only send it after purchase. I don’t want to purchase it and find out most modules are locked out. Hoping someone can give me a hand.

I have a 23 Range Rover Sport, and the factory warranty expires soon. The dealership I bought it from quoted me about $7,500 for a factory warranty extension (additional 3 years, up to 100,000 total miles).

Does that sound reasonable, or have any of you gotten a better price for similar coverage?

I'm hoping this doesn't break any forum rules (apologies if so)...

I've got 2 "Land Rover Owner" tickets for the GB LR Show in Stoneleigh on 22nd Nov 2026, which I won't be able to use - £15 for both if anyone's interested.

I have a 2022 Land Rover Discovery Sport SE, and my battery was last replaced in October 2024 under warranty at the Land Rover dealership.

I recently went in for an oil change and they told me the battery needs to be replaced again — quoted $900, + which feels wild.

I took the car to Firestone, and their test shows the battery at 600 CCA. They have a compatible battery for my vehicle, but I’m worried they won’t properly reset the system after installation.

Has anyone gotten their battery replaced at Firestone or AutoZone?
If so, how was your experience? Did they handle the reset correctly?

I’m trying to decide whether to:

• go with Firestone for about $350,
• use a third‑party Land Rover specialist for around $500,
• or just bite the bullet and go back to the dealership.

Would love to hear real‑world experiences and what you’d recommend. Thanks!

Bought the red '00 Discovery 2 with 218k on the clock for $2,500 6mo ago. Added upgraded exhaust, leveling kit, tires and removed the fender flares. I have driven the piss out of it and it is easily the nicest and most well-sorted vehicle I've ever owned.

I recently bought another Disco 2 with 83k on the clock and it is in FAR worse condition than my (now) 221k mile Rover. It just goes to show how much previous ownership matters with these rigs!

Wondering if anyone had their fuel rail replaced on a supercharged full-size. How much did it run you, what parts did you use, how many hours were necessary? Thanks.

I just purchased a 2015 LR4 HSE with just over 101,000 miles with a clean Carfax report. I am wondering what potential problems or issues I need to be on the lookout for.

Was pulling the oil pan on my 4.0 '97 disco to clean a disgusting oil pickup tube (see second slide) and found these little guys which i presume to be collets in my oil pan. Not quite sure how we got here, but I'll be pulling the valve covers tomorrow to investigate some more. Best guess is they got dropped by a previous owner, and everything else is fine, but who's to say?

I think they named these cars the "Discovery" because you're always finding something new wrong with them!

Hi everyone,

I’m urgently looking for recommendations for a reputable, reasonably priced collision repair shop in the Los Angeles / Southern California area that has experience working on Land Rovers, specifically a 2016 LR4 HSE Lux.

I was recently involved in an accident, and the first collision shop, Premier Auto Collision in Thousand Oaks, came back with a repair estimate of approximately $20,000, which would essentially total my vehicle.

I’m desperately trying to avoid having it declared a total loss, especially since I’ve recently invested nearly $5,000 in mechanical repairs and the vehicle has only 77K miles.

My goal is to find a shop that could potentially complete the repairs safely in the $10K–$12K range, assuming the damage allows for it.

I have the full itemized estimate available and would be happy to share it with anyone who has experience with LR4 collision repairs or can help me understand whether the pricing is reasonable.

My experience with Premier wasn’t particularly positive, and I’d really appreciate a second opinion from a shop that isn’t unnecessarily inflating labor rates, parts costs, or repair estimates.

I’m willing to travel outside LA for the right shop, including Ventura County, Orange County, or surrounding areas.

Does anyone have recommendations for an honest, experienced independent body shop that works on Land Rovers? I’m hoping to get a second estimate ASAP before the insurance company finalizes the total-loss determination.

Any recommendations or advice would mean a lot. Thank you!

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Here’s what they’re quoting for the $20,620 repair:

The collision was primarily to the right rear quarter near the fuel door.

Major replacement parts:

• Right rear quarter panel: $3,730
• Rear bumper assembly (used): $996
• Rear crossmember: $794
• Blind-spot monitoring module/bracket: $750
• Right rear taillight panel: $580
• Right muffler/exhaust pipe: $536
• Right rear taillight (used): $182
• Various bumper retainers, moldings, badges, and smaller parts.

They’re also quoting 30.1 hours just for the quarter-panel replacement.

Total labor: $8,689

• Body: 53.8 hours at $105/hr
• Paint: 17.7 hours at $105/hr
• Mechanical: 3.7 hours at $220/hr
• Frame: 4 hours at $92/hr

Additional work includes repairing the aluminum tailgate, removing and reinstalling the rear door and trim, pulling/measuring the rear corner, welding, paint blending, alignment, and ADAS calibration.

The car is still drivable, and the airbags never deployed.

I’m particularly interested in whether replacing the entire quarter panel is necessary versus repairing it, and whether the labor hours seem reasonable.

If anyone has experience with LR4 body repairs, I’d really appreciate your thoughts. I’m trying to find a qualified shop that can bring this closer to $10K–$12K without compromising safety.

Hey may need to go back to university In the US. Need something to move around in.

Always thought if or when I ever bought a range it would be brand new. But I csnt justify purchasing one right now.

Everything within my budget is like 2022 and those go for 45-60k. I heard range rovers can go out at literally anytime? But I do want to be comfortable

It seems to be the mist comfortable ride in this price range

Or I can buy an older c63 amg which has a better history of reliability. But tbh I want to be higher up to the ground for road comfort.

Are ranges really that unreliable despite costing such a steep price? Is there like any extended warranty to purchase for like a 3 years?

Looking for an autobiography

I’ve been working on this project for a while and thought I’d share it! I’ll caveat this by saying I’m no land rover expert. I posted into the DIY sub and a few comments suggested posting here also.

I wanted to build my wee boy something a bit different, so I decided to make him a Land Rover bed.

I modelled it digitally first to scale then built it mostly from plywood, with Land Rover styling, bonnet, windscreen, wheel arches and headlights etc. Finished it in green with a white roof to try give it a traditional look.

It’s been a fun project trying to squeeze it in on my spare time but I’m pretty pleased with how it’s turned out. Still a few things to finish off. I’ll finish painting, add wheels and a winch also plus a few other finishes such as lights over the coming weeks.

The window folds back on itself onto the roof for access if required and the bonnet is also hinged. To allowed changing of the bed sheets or mattress removal etc

I’ve included some photos of the build process as well as how it looks in his bedroom. Hopefully it’s something he’ll remember having when he’s older.

Love to hear any feedback, good and bad.

Hi. I’m looking to get LR Defender 110 2026, P400, x dynamic.
Is it ok for daily use?
Running errands, taking kid to classes, work.
We live in New Jersey.
The car would be parked outside (we don’t have a garage or covered area).

Planning to have this car for 5-6 years.

Previously had a Toyota and had no issues.

Any known issues?
Previously we considered getting a Jeep Wagoneer but after reading about issues we are considering getting a Defender.

2006 Range Rover Sport 4.4L — Worth restoring or time to move on?

Looking for some opinions from people familiar with these vehicles, especially the earlier model years.

I've got a 2006 Range Rover Sport with the 4.4L V8, with 120k and I'm at a crossroads about what to do with it.

Mechanically, it runs and drives under its own power. I've recently gone through and replaced pretty much all the fluids and filters as well as brakes, but it still has some suspension related fault codes that need to be addressed.

Cosmetically, it's a different story. The paint is pretty much shot, and the rear door has body filler from a previous repair. It was originally a northern vehicle, but surprisingly, it doesn't have any major rust issues. Interior is is almost perfect shape

At this point, I feel like I have two options:

Invest several thousand dollars into getting it mechanically and cosmetically sorted out, essentially refurbishing it.

Cut my losses, sell it as is, and move on.

Part of me wants to keep it because I've always thought these were really cool vehicles. But being a first-year model also makes me hesitant to invest heavily in it. If I were starting over, I'd probably look for an '08 or something a little newer.

I've also noticed that finding affordable parts vehicles and certain replacement parts isn't as easy as I expected.

I'm not interested in financing another Land Rover, so if I replace this one, it'll be another project I can purchase outright and fix myself.

For those of you who have owned or worked on the early L320 Range Rover Sports, would you put the money into restoring a 2006 in this condition, or sell it and look for a better starting point?

Interested in hearing your experiences, especially regarding long term reliability, parts availability, and whether the later model years are worth holding out for. I got 2200$ in this one total including the the truck itself

My Discovery 5 develops a vibration at around 120 km/h (75 mph), felt mainly from the rear. It happens both under acceleration and while coasting.

I’ve tried wheel balancing, alignment, and swapping front/rear wheels and tires, with no improvement. The rear prop shaft center support looks fine.

The car currently has a 1.5-inch lift, but I believe the vibration started 1–2 years ago, before the lift was installed.

I removed the rear prop shaft and inspected the center support, which appears to be fine. The only thing I noticed was some unusual scratches on the metal heat shield, suggesting it may have been touching or rubbing against something.

Has anyone experienced something similar? Or any suggestions?

What is the purpose of the rough-textured gold plug(?) on the suspension compressor dryer? Probably shoulda peered inside while replacing the desiccant but the thought didn't cross my mind.

Hey guys, just stopping by to give you an update on my dream defender project. It should be ready in a couple of weeks, and I’ll share more pictures once it’s done.

It’s been quite a challenge because, along the way, we discovered that being an ex-military Defender, it has A LOT of differences compared to a civilian model.

We had to extend the sides of the pickup bed upwards, and cut and modify parts of the chassis/bodywork to make room for the doors to fit.

We also completely removed the roof, and I’m planning to install a bimini-style soft top in the future.

Anyway, I hope you enjoy the pictures. Cheers!

Past post: https://www.reddit.com/r/LandRover/comments/1u0brwr/my_first_defender/

​

Hello everyone, I was considering buying this car for use in the mountains when I go on holiday.

Do you have experience with this engine? I would appreciate someone's advice for more clarity.

Thank you all

Hey everyone, I purchased a 2012 LR4 with 120k miles about two weeks ago. Just had the entire cooling system replaced and have noticed some white smoke on startup every so often.

I'm in SoCal, so it doesn't get particularly cold, even in the mornings. The smoke always disappears within the first minute or two and doesn't continue when accelerating or driving. By the time I get to my destination, there's no visible smoke either.

The truck isn't throwing any codes, and I've been keeping an eye on the coolant and oil levels since buying it. Haven't noticed much change in either. There also isn't much of a smell that I can tell, nothing noticeably sweet like coolant or like burning oil, although I don't have the greatest sense of smell.

Wanted to get an idea of what might be causing this, whether I just bought myself an expensive lawn ornament, or if its just normal condensation burn off and I'm overthinking my new purchase.

Thanks!

Hi, I need some advice from the community.
I recently finished restoring my Series 3, but I've been told it's smoking too much.
I tried to find someone to adjust the fuel pump, but I couldn't find anyone near me.
Do you think it's getting too much diesel?
Do you have any suggestions for fixing the problem?
Thanks