8K sync box plugged in between tv and receiver. Constant issues if no image or no input at all. Especially on Apple TV. I have tried everything in my power to fix it. Resets, power, WiFi, order of power. Nothing works. It just does not work.

I toned the settings on this one down a bit

I have the TV lightstrip model number is 560417

I need a replacement cable (I believe it’s model 046677585952) for my Hue light strip behind the TV. Everything online says “unavailable”. Ship to USA.

New 3m flux, cut and reconnected through flux connectors, but even after turning off/back on etc it’s not detecting the full length.

I want a scene where each of my bulbs picks a different colour when I activate it, and slowly works its way around the colour wheel from there, similar to the Opal effect but much slower, even on speed 1 I find opal changes quickly enough to be quite distracting. Is there any way to do this? Preferably from within the official app but I don't mind using a 3rd party app for it if I have to

I installed hue bulbs and need to wire in 2 3way switches with dimmers. I realized that most dimmer switches wont work with Hue bulbs.

I have multi gang boxes currently and want to keep the same clean look, with decora style switches. I want to keep dimmers and on/off functionality at the switch, scene changing from the switch isnt important as I can do that from the Hue app.

I dont need the power to the light to be cut off, I just want to be able to turn the light on/off from the switch. I prefer wired options so that in case something goes wrong with the wireless connectivity, I can still turn lights on/off

What switch options do I have that I can connect? Ideally I want hardwired switches in each box.

Apple TV automatically turns on/off both my Denon AVR and LG OLED. I have the sync box on an HDMI output from the Denon. Everything works except automatically turning on the sync box when everything powers on.

Two white Hue bulbs, one fully dead and one flickering. I thought “why not try?” So with a box knife, twenty minutes and some solder I saved the first one. Sweet!

On the second bulb, not so lucky. It had different guts and cold solder wasn’t the problem, only managed to get it to briefly flash when powering up. Further disassembly was not worth the effort IMHO.

No idea which generation each bulb is. These are probably close to 15 years old, and I’m fairly certain the newer bulbs have glass domes instead of plastic. Still, worth a try if you ever have the need.

Hue Newbie here - what are people’s preferences for behind the TV lighting - play bars or gradient light strips?

Does anyone know how to set an automation in the Hue app to only have an off trigger and not an on one?

For example, if one or more lights are used in the evening, then at a certain time (bedtime) shut it/them off as a backup in case I forget. But don’t necessarily want to automate turning it/them on..it will be manually turned on if the light will be used.

I’d prefer to keep this in the Hue app and not need to make an iOS shortcut/automation but will if there’s no Hue app option.

I bought the Festivia Icicles (8.85m) no power supply. They look good, great even but I feel the quality has dipped, especially for being $630NZD. Is it worth the price, in my opinion? If you want to do an entire house, absolutely not. If you want to do a smaller side of a house like I have, sure. But I probably would never get them again.

Pros:

Brighter than expected and look great. Part of the hue eco system.

Cons:

Very expensive for what they are, quality dipped and they feel more fragile than most Hue outdoor products. Clips are pretty average and the string doesnt really clip in properly. If they get lifted up for whatever reason, the string will come out of the gutter clips.

I’ve been going coconuts every now and then when I turn on the lights in my hall, all powered by Hue, and they are all at 1%. I do not have any automation enabled, and it only applies to the hall. Kitchen & office have never done this.

I move the slider up to 50% and it’ll adhere to that for a certain amount of time, but give it a few days and it’ll randomly turn on at 1% again instead.

Has anyone also had this issue? Is there any way to fix it? There’s no point in having your hallway lights at 1% because there’s no way I can tie my shoes in that little light 😆

Is the philips hue gradient lightstrip 34 discontinued and what has replaced this? can i replicate this using the new flux strips?

Hey everyone,

My english isnt that good so i asked AI to help me rewrite this post (it couldnt fix my problem though)...

​I'm having a really frustrating issue with my sync box:

​Hardware: Xbox Series X connected to a Philips Hue Play HDMI Sync Box 8K, passing through to an LG OLED TV. I have multiple hue lights. The gradient light strip, light bars and 2 hue signe lights

​The Problem: Whenever I play a game in Dolby Vision and then pause, go to the dashboard, or switch out of the game, things break down. Instead of smooth transitions, the Hue lights start lagging badly, turning on/off or brightening in awkward, jerky steps instead of smoothly syncing. Instead of lighting up smoothly. It goes from 10% to 30% to 50% etc etc. It doesnt look nice.

I want full Dolby Vision working properly without having to compromise on picture quality.

​Environment: My Hue Bridge is relatively close to my router, but this specific "stepping/lagging" behavior happens right after interacting with Dolby Vision content on the Xbox. (I have moved my bridge to apr 1,5 me from my router)

​Has anyone experienced this exact symptom on the Sync Box 8K? Is this a known handshake/buffer issue that can be solved with a certified 48Gbps HDMI 2.1 cable (like Ugreen), or is the Sync Box struggling with dynamic metadata switching when pausing/exiting DV?

​Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

My old printed holders for the Hue motion sensors never sat right in the ceiling, so I designed a recessed mount that works like a GU10 spot gimbal.

• Fits an 83 to 84 mm hole in drywall (9.5 to 25 mm boards)
• 3 printed parts: mounting ring with spring arms, ball with a pocket for the sensor, clamp ring
• The spring arms pull the 100 mm flange tight against the ceiling, no screws or glue
• The ball tilts about 15 degrees each way and rotates, and stays where you aim it
• Printed in PETG without supports, about 1.5 h and 47 g for a set
• Battery change: pull the whole unit down, swap the batteries, push it back in. The aiming stays

Made for the indoor sensor (the square 55 mm one). Happy to answer questions.

I've been working on this app for a bit now. Hoping to release it in the next month or so. This is part of a test I was running tonight. Sorry for the crap audio quality, I had it running through a bluetooth speaker.

Hi guys,

I’m looking into the gradient pro brackets as I currently have the Gradient for PC 32-34 but I keep encountering a problem where’d they just fall out of the brackets.

Am I correct in saying the brackets for the gradient pro are designed so the light strip itself clips into the brackets? From measuring my gradient for PC light strip & measurements on google I think they’re roughly the same width so I’m hoping I can get a set of Pro brackets and use them instead. Thanks

1. Migration from Hue v2.1 to "Pro" said it was successful, but made all the lights unreachable.
   
2. After repairing 90% of lights, I say 90% bcos when repairing some others became available. I also started using a remote to put the light in pairing mode, but some just required turn off and then on. The hub worked fine for a couple of weeks... then the lights became unreachable again.

I had 48 lights, 6 remotes and 2 PIRs prior to migration.
Now I have 28 lights, 6 remote and 2 PIRs, the v2 handled the non Hue lights fine, but when I repaired to the anything but "Pro" bridge I put them on another zigbee coordinator (SLZB-06Mg26U) + z2m on a old PC.

Am I the only one with Bridge Pro issues?
I tried ch15, 20 and 25.
I moved 2.4Ghz wifi to ch 1 and 6, and put Hue on ch20 so the new zigee hub could be on ch25.

Now I'm about to add back the v2 Hue bridge bcos the Pro has been very unreliable. Just not sure if I got a dud or the Bridge Pro is complete junk. I got the "Pro" so I could add more lights, but that's not going to happen now.

My new zigbee coordinator connected to z2m has 100% reliable, and the Hue v2 had no issues. The Pro went in exactly the same place, and all I did was replace the PSU.

I've wasted dozens of hours on Hue now, the bridge pro has removed all my good will towards Hue.

Moin Leute,
ich plane gerade die indirekte Beleuchtung bei uns im Haus und würde gerne Philips Hue nehmen. Ich brauche insgesamt 22 Meter, als eine durchgehende Strecke. Sie fängt an einer Steckdose an und endet irgendwo, es ist also kein geschlossener Kreis.
Mir ist aufgefallen, dass der Hue Flux laut Hue auf maximal 20 m erweiterbar ist. Gibt es eine Möglichkeit, genau auf 22 m zu kommen?
Lässt sich das mit Verbindern oder Verlängerungskabeln so lösen, dass es nicht auffällt?
Reicht für 20 m ein Netzteil, oder braucht man zwei?
Wichtig ist uns, dass wir es per Alexa steuern können (Licht an, dimmen, Szenen wie "Alltag" und "Fernsehen") und dass es im Warmweiß richtig schön ist und sich sehr tief dimmen lässt.
Hat jemand von euch so eine lange Strecke gebaut? Über Erfahrungen und Tipps freue ich mich sehr. Danke euch!

I've just installed a brand-new round Philips Hue ceiling LED panel, and the light doesn't seem to be evenly distributed. Is this normal?

There are several visible bright rings or hotspots across the panel. Unfortunately, my phone camera isn't capturing them properly. In reality, it looks significantly worse than it appears in the picture.

I'd appreciate your thoughts, particularly if you've had experience with a similar product.

I have a 50-inch TV, a Philips Hue Bridge Pro, and the 4K Hue Sync Box. I use an Apple TV for movies and a PS5 for gaming, and I’m deciding between a Hue Flux lightstrip and a Play Gradient Lightstrip.

For anyone who has used either (or both) with a Sync Box:

• ⁠Does Flux sync well with movies and games, and how does its effect compare with the Play Gradient?
• ⁠Does the Play Gradient’s color placement around the TV make a noticeable difference, or is Flux good enough as ambient backlighting?
• ⁠Which would you choose for a 50-inch TV, and are there any fit or mounting issues I should consider?

I’m mainly hoping for an immersive movie-watching effect without the lights feeling distracting. Thanks!

I was setting up lights in my cabinet. And two shelves were working but not the top. I had connected flux connectors behind it to link them all together. I tried triaging and connecting the bottom to top etc and that worked. But now when I set it back to the original setup… the top and bottom shelf aren’t lighting up :(

I’m worried that it’s sent some electrical fault now to the middle and it won’t work. Between each test I was unplugging and replugging lights into the wall.

Anyway I can reset the power to at least try and triage one shelf and not two? The bottom was working