We are adding on a screened in porch with a gable roof. A friend expressed concern that there were no collar ties for structural support. We brought this up to the builder who stated that instead they doubled down on all storm hardware (10 inch 20 gauge straps over top). My question, is this sufficient, or should we have collar ties added?

I got a quote for 5 exterior doors. I was looking at fiberglass wood grain, 2 with glass in them, and 2 fire rated entry doors from garage, and one regular side entry. It was right at $10k. I decided to put together a Menards mastercraft quote for wood grained texture, fiberglass, with metal frame and the total was $3800.

Obviously I know there is a certain quality difference between thermatru and Mastercraft but, honestly, is it almost 3x? Seems crazy considering they are similar materials. My biggest worry was rotting frames and given they are metal, like what do I have to worry about here? Are these mastercrafts going to disintegrate in a couple years if I try to save money on this?

Do I consider splurging on just the main front door or what?

Thanks for the thoughts.

Some footage from our interior door installation on a new construction project in Florida. These doors are 96 inches tall—eight feet.
The height makes a noticeable difference in person. Sharing a bit of the installation work before everything is finished.

Hive minds, help me out! Drywall install on new build is scheduled 1 week out. Our builder has 80% of the windows installed and no exterior doors. He says he will have windows installed but won’t do the exterior doors because “they got scratched up at his last job and he wants to protect them.” We had a good bout of rain before shingles got laid (but that was a month and a half ago). I bought a moisture meter and took samples on the framing 2x4 on top of the sub floor (probably a word for that, sorry!) and it came in almost everywhere at 20%. Every bit of googling I’m doing is saying that drywall should absolutely NOT be installed on top of anything over 15%. Agree? Disagree? Our builder is pushing back when we tried to politely mention this was concerning us and our googling doesn’t compare with his 40 years of construction knowledge. He thinks it’s rude to push the drywallers back, but if it’s a matter of potential mold or issues down the road, I absolutely want to risk any repercussions and push back timing! Any experience with this?

I am converting a covered patio into a 4 seasons room. I’m hoping I can purchase similar pre-textured skip trowel panels like those seen in this photo to match the exterior.

Sorry for the bad picture and thanks for any help.

Hopefully this is the correct sub for this.

Here’s my situation: I am looking to get a premade gazebo to cover the majority of a slab.

The slab has dimensions of 119 7/8” by 220”

Here’s my issue.

The gazebo (20x12) has internal pole dimensions of 118.8”

The poles 6 pillars are cedar and 5.5” x 5.5”.

The problem is if sitting on the slab only about 1/2” would potentially rest on the slab. (Assuming the inner dimensions are correct)

I do not believe that 1/2” on either side would properly support this thing.

If I were to shave off ~1/2” on either side so that it sits flush with my slab. And then anchor the pole into the slab from the side (raised slab sits approximately 10” above ground)

Would this 1/2” shaved off 3x on each side 5.5” by 5.5” pillars making them effectively 5”x5.5” compromise the integrity of the gazebo in any way worth worrying about.

The plan would be to sit the gazebo pillars flat onto the ground and use 4 anchors on each to anchor it in side ways.

Thanks

Hi, how would you do a window trim for this one?

Thank you for all your help

(21 M)
Hello everyone, decided to post here looking for some career advice for whoever wants to give.

I have been in the trades for 4 years, 2 of them being a trim carpenter and currently I’m a 2nd term electrical apprentice working for a 8 man non union crew. I’m learning a ton and enjoy the work but have some doubts and questions.

I am very set on my goals when it comes to my future, I want to own my own house flipping/renovation business but decided to go electrical for now for job security once I get my license. My thought process is incase it doesn’t work out at least I’m a licensed electrician who can probably get a good job. But now I am having second thoughts. Im aware of the pay scale and what my pay would look like over the course of apprenticeship-journeyman and its not great. I’m kind of wondering if I’m doing electrical for no reason?

I work part time (2-3 times a week 5pm-9:30pm) for a renovation company and have the opportunity to go full time with them if I choose. I’m thinking that I would learn a ton especially considering my end goals but have for now decided not to due to me wanting to get my electrical license for “job security”. Would you consider this a smart move? Or a bad move because I have the opportunity to have a full time job in the exact field I want my future to be in.

I kind of miss my old trim carpentry job, aside from the crew I worked with being the best group of guys ever, I could go out on my own a lot faster than I could if I stick with electrical. Less capital needed for trim work, not being tied down to a 5 year apprenticeship and also can learn and get good at the trade faster than I could doing electrical. I also think doing carpentry teaches you a ton about other trades and how a house works.

My current electrical job is some residential but a lot of commercial work which doesn’t really help my case out now. Going back to carpentry would keep me in residential.

I currently have a small time company of my own that I consistently have enough work to be working every weekend. Most of these jobs end up being trim carpentry and I’m kind of thinking how am I going to get really good at this if I don’t have someone better than me teaching me and not just doing all the work myself and staying at the same skill level.

I’m sorry if this seems all over the place I’m not really even sure the questions I need to be asking others/myself. I guess I’m just asking if you were in my shoes what path would you take? I did my best to kind of make this make sense lol. Any insight or personal experience would be great thankyou.

We bought this apartment, but we're not really happy with the current layout. The building hasn't started construction yet, so we still have time to make changes to the walls and room layout.

One thing we'd really like is a master bedroom with its own private bathroom. Other than that, we're pretty open to ideas and would love to hear what you'd change to make the apartment more practical and comfortable to live in.

Would you move any walls, change the size of any rooms, or completely rethink certain parts of the layout? Is there anything you'd do differently if this were your apartment?

We have a home up a small mountain with a valley that carries high winds. Our electric box brings in water when this is extremely windy and wet as you can see in the pictures. I added a rubber seal and later also added some additional sealant to the corners but in both incidents it continues to let in water. Can anyone advise a fix as it is a big concern.

I was told you can add an additional box of some sort over this but I am unsure of the type that would do, and also there are big power switches at the very bottom of the current box that may cause issues installing this.

When adding on to a home what is there to consider with the settling difference between the addition and the older home. I want to do a basement foundation under the addition and am going to hire an engineer once I have my plans but I want to know what problems might occur and how to mitigate the problems in the plans.

Contractors are almost done with framing, and noticed this suspect 2x4 was used up near where the bonus room will be above the garage. Is this something I should bring up to the builder or is it not that big of a deal? So far this is the only piece of lumber Ive seen that looks like this.

Rough walk through is scheduled for next week.

Anyone willing to share insights/experiences with builders in North Central Ohio that are able to build a home for ~$400,000 or less? I’ve been researching for a while, and it seems all I’m finding are nightmare stories about all of them.

I know there are no perfect builds or builders, but are there any that simply do solid work with integrity?

At least that won’t hand over a house with foundation and moisture issues and disappear?

Open to hearing the good, the bad and the ugly.

(Please save the comments about not being able to build for $400,000 or less….it can be done. I’m not building the Taj Mahal here.)

SECOND EDIT AND CLARIFICATIONS: First of all this is NOT AI-I wish it were, but alas. To delve a little bit deeper, the exterior insulation boards are part of the design as originally these were supposed to be 48" deep footings. That design was switched to a 24" footing over rock and two pieces of hard insulation with same on the exterior. This updated design was approved by the town-mandated inspector who issued the permit. The reason we went to the revised design is that during the excavation they took out my sewer to septic tank pipe and pump alarm and power lines. They attempted a fix and it leaked, of course. An emergency visit by a plumber made it right hours before my international work travel. So, there has been a history of major issues with these guys. My issue is the complete lack of uniform height control during the pour and general sloppy work after a warning that I wanted NO further issues on this job-especially in my absence. So, to be fair the insulation wasn't solely meant to be the form, but in essence it was. Again, it is a very sloppy job and the gentleman has admitted as such. So, it is simply time to end the relationship and come to an amiable solution.

A couple of other responses to various comments: This guy generated a detailed set of plans and we have a contract. He was not a low bid. As mentioned his earlier work was excellent. But this part has been a non stop comedy of errors and sloppy work. So, it is time to get my neigbor's contracting company to come in and get this enclosed and supported before the cold weather sets in as we are in Wisconsin.

Hope this clarifies some items, but to me this pour is the straw that broke the camel's back for me. His proposed remedy to me is more complex and prone to error than simply insuring a proper pour in the first place-hence my coming to Reddit to gauge whether my instincts to stop or cautiously proceed with remedy was the best course. Again, thank you for the insights, thoughts, comments and laughs.

EDIT INCOMING: I am glad you were all able to bring me to my senses on having this guy continue. We will be drafting a termination letter forthwith. My neighbor is a contractor and will get to work on tearing this out and presenting a proposal to get this on track before winter hits and we get heavy snow on the roof...Unfortunately, incompetence still exists. This guy was used on earlier masonry projects(brick home) and performed very well. We all rise to the level of our incompetence and unfortunately my project scope exceeded his. Thank you all for your input and light-hearted comments-they are appreciated!

Greetings Hombuilders;;I have a doozy! I hired a contractor to excavate then pour a 24" deep concrete foundation for a brick columns and a quarter height exterior for a 3 season porch. I returned home from a business trip to this: used only foam insulation and particle board for forms, which then blew out. There is a height differential across the pour of about 6 inches. The proposed remediation is cut the corners, score the concrete surface, add a layer of epoxy binder and then hand mix 4000 psi concrete to a level 1.5" above the highest point. Aside from running the guy off site, does the proposed remediation sound reasonable? If not, then I will just find another contractor to undertake removal and start all over, but I am hoping the fix will work and then we can allow him to get the brick work done and I can move forward with rough framing and window installation and put this behind me.

This house has a gap in between the roof and ceiling of the back patio. Should it be like this? Should I be concerned? If it needs to be closed off, what is the best way?

I live in east TX where, for whatever reason, you need a well almost anywhere that's not 10 inches from a shopping center. You could be in downtown Dallas and STILL need a well, it's ridiculous. Anyway....

I am moving to a new place soon and I just can't afford a well. They're saying I would have to go almost 400 ft to hit water, apparently. I have no idea how to install a rain containment system, my house doesn't even have any gutters. I have heard a little about cistern tanks etc (275 gallons IBC totes) but really I have no idea how to make anything like that, and then how do I keep the pipes from freezing when it gets down to 15-20'F? I do have a Ford F-150 size truck with a V8 and I figured I could haul in from our current location, which has community water and will be a vacant lot otherwise when we leave.

Tips?

Electrician roughs in nine days from now and he wants to know what battery is going in the garage. My GC says lock the wall space and a conduit run, buy the box later. The electrician says where the gateway and transfer gear sit depends on the brand, so he needs the model. One of them is wrong.

One-story on slab, all-electric with a heat pump, 200A service. The garage is attached, north side, unheated, and it sees maybe 15F a few nights every winter. Ice storms here knock power out for two or three days. Backup target: fridge, heat pump air handler, lights, router, one bathroom.

What's on the table:

- Powerwall 3: 10 years of warranty as I read it, and our installer has done a bunch.

- FranklinWH aPower 2: also 10 years, more capacity per unit. One installer in range.

- EcoFlow TITAN 5000: 5 kWh floor-standing modules that pair with their own 10-circuit panel, so one more thing to place. Warranty is 5 years, it hasn't shipped, and the spec sheet's charging range starts at 32F, which is my garage problem.

I'm leaning toward Powerwall 3, but I'm also considering the EcoFlow TITAN 5000. It's cheaper and seems to offer better value for money, but I'm a bit hesitant given the shorter warranty, the fact that it hasn't shipped yet, and the cold-weather charging limitation. I'd love to hear what others think. Which would you choose?

I’ve never done anything like this before so I dont Really know what to look for… it’s built like a pole barn where the log “posts“ support the brunt of the roof weight. In hindsight I would have added more posts. I’m considering adding more turnbuckles across the interior width from post to post to alleviate strain on the roof pushing out… am I missing anything else? hoping it will survive a northern US winter

We had pavers installed last week and I want to know if I’m crazy or if it looks stupid that they didn’t put concrete all along the outside of the pavers and only parts of it (or if there is some reason I’m not understanding?)

They haven’t sealed it yet so we are going to come to them with some others issues we want addressed, but I thought I would ask people more knowledgeable than me what they think.

Does this look normal for brand new blinds when they are closed completely? There are large gaps at the bottom and a lot of light comes in. My husband says it’s normal and I do not think it is.

Hi everyone,

I’m purchasing a new-construction home in upstate NY. The house is in the finishing stages, but permanent power is what’s holding everything up and not letting the builder give a closing date.

A new utility pole has already been delivered and is lying at the roadside, but my builder has not been provided with a date for it to be erected. I called the local utility office, and was told that the pole needs to be erected before the electrical/fire-underwriter inspection and permanent-power connection can move forward. Couple of questions:

1. Has anyone experienced a similar situation?
   
2. Once the pole was delivered, how long did it take to be erected?
   
3. How long after pole installation did the house receive permanent power?
   
4. Did the inspection and meter installation happen relatively quickly afterward?

My builder has completed many homes in this area, so I’m giving him the benefit of the doubt that preparations were handled properly and that we’re now waiting on the utility’s crew schedule. I’m pretty stressed, and I’m mainly trying to understand what to expect. Any experiences or advice is welcomed!

Thanks!

We currently finished our new build. Wife was insistent on putting a small laundry space in our master. I hate it. Anyway, what could I do here to cover them and make it look nice. The washer and dryer doors are flush with that wall. I don’t see how I could make any type of door work with them being flush and not being able to push them back further.

EDIT: Meant master bathroom not bedroom

I'm using Chief Architect to design my own house but I'm struggling with the site portion. I exported the 3D site file from GIS and into CA but other than showing the house it doesn't seem that useful. Is there a software that is mainly focused on the site work? I'd like to be able to modify it as well to show future driveways, house etc. The house could just be a block for all I care but I would like to see if a retaining wall would be needed or not for example. Maybe include one or two of the bigger trees to see if they would be in the way. Stuff like that.

First time building. In general, like the idea of steel construction for spans w/o support, durability etc.

Local steel guys generally do commercial but also do some residential stuff. They believe at this time steel is actually cheaper than stick due to materials pricing. 5000sqft in mountains if it matters.

Curious if anyone has feedback on this from a pricing perspective? Likely go hybrid for exterior purposes.

Any other gotchas for using steel in residential?

Our friend gifted us this window they had in there house but took it out because they’re doing home renovations, we just bought this house in august and there’s only one window on the main level so were thought it would be perfect, we didn’t realize how big it actually was until they brought it here. From the door to the trim is 109 inches, the window width is 103 inches, leaving 3 inches on each side.
Is this possible?
What are your thoughts?