This is not a place to discuss politics

This mws was in shambles externally and somewhat internally but thankfully I’ve almost cleared all the spray paint! currently I am focusing on cleaning the electronics on it and afterwards the trigger box.
FYI the green spray paint was before 😵‍💫

Avengers B-18
Magpul MOE AK
VFC QRS Selector
E-Shooter Flare Smokey BT Silo
Direct Action Carbine Sling

Internals: Waldo’s Crimson Bucking, Unicorn 210mm

Edit: Forgot to add the optic, Feyachi Green Dot

Almost where I want it externally. Top priority now is just a Magpul stock, then a Maxx hop up chamber and adjuster to replace the god awful stock one. Eventually, I'd also like to get a steel trigger box because the trigger pull on the stock one sucks.

Base gun is a Classic Army 13" URGI MWS currently run on straight propane.

• Unicorn 60 degree bucking
• Unicorn 80 degree nub
• Unicorn 410mm barrel
• Unicorn nozzle guide (Original which was molded with a defect and snapped)
• PTS MEC buffer (O-ring removed to allow for shifting weights)
• EMG/Cyma DD RIS3 12.25" (Always planned on swapping the URGI rail but my securing screws stripped out after a few a couple disassemblies)
• Magpul MVG
• Unknown Elcan and Docter (Purchased off a friend)
• Homemade NPAS (Will probably replace with a Federal Concepts FEDA as there are a couple problems with mine)

Between the barrel and hop setup, it is dead nuts accurate. I love it. I couldn't ask for a better first GBBR, short of a couple QC issues.

Hey! I've been reading posts about the AK for ages and finally decided to make the jump to GBBs.
If anyone's got questions, I'm happy to answer!

This MWS has electric heating built into the magwell (not permanent), allowing it to handle pretty much any temperature while using regular green gas! The power is adjustable from 0–15 W via a knob on the PEQ box, which also houses two quick change 18650 batteries at 3500 mAh. That’s enough power for around two hours at full power, and it can raise the magazine temperature by roughly 20c above ambient.

While the ultimate goal was to recreate the Hell Monster as closely as I could, part of that was also seeing how many real PMM parts I could get to fit. The answer ended up being all of them with varying levels of work. There is certainly a significant level of jank here, but I am very happy with the results.

If anyone wants to get some extensive dremel practice in, here's how the project went for me:

> Drop-in

- All MLOK accessories

- HRF Magwell (don't fully tighten)

- BCM Mod 2 Grip

- PMM Left Side Rear Sling QD

- KDG RCH Charging Handle (a bit loose, recommend shimming)

> Filing Needed

- PMM Picatinny Endplate

- PMM Front Sling QD

> Dremel Recommended

- PMM BCD (enlarged slot for bolt catch paddle on rear piece, removed slope from front piece)

- PMM Selectors (cut down VFC selector cam to fit, recommend this rather than attempting to modify the levers thenselves)

- PMM Magazine Release (bored out the mounting slot and pin holes and ran a longer than stock M3 grub screw to (loosely) fix it to the VFC SCAR's magazine catch)

- PMM Right Side Rear Sling QD (made the slot on the part wider and deeper)

Oh and I guess I should mention internals too. I currently have both a Unicorn inner barrel and 70D non-comp bucking which yields pretty good results. Stock accuracy was good too, but I damaged my IB by driving a screw through it and I'm planning to get a new hop chamber setup once they're available so I wanted to test buckings just so I could knock both of those out at the same time. I have Carlo's 3D printed feed ramp/chamber installed (once again to replace the stock one self-destructing), and I'm using a prototype Black Variable recoil buffer I was sent to field test. This gun shoots really well. Despite having many technically "better" gas rifles (TM and VFC ARs, VFC FALs and their AK-105), this is still by far my favorite gun to use. Best feeling recoil for sure.

Im really happy with how this turned out. If anyone knows of any upgrades for the internals id appreciate the advice. I haven't found any other than bucking and barrel.

After so long I finally got my WE Apache a3!

GHK G45 V2 build complete, for now. Might get the steel slide and barrel in the future.

KC02 and rw underlever kit. I must say its fun to play with. Sniper limit and rof as fast as u can 😂

Really happy now, finally completed the Springfield V-Series family with the WA V16, so this small collection is done for now.

I really dig those V pistols that Springfield produced in the late 90s till the early 2000s, ported barrels and slotted slides. The nomenclature comes from the ported barrels (V = vented and it also creates a V-shaped muzzle flash) and the number of holes (2x 5 = 10 on the compact, 2x 6 = 12 on the standard sized, 2x 8 = 16 on the long slide)

Seen in the pic:

Guarder stainless steel V10

WA + Prime aluminum V12 (still WIP on this one)

2x WA + Prime brass FACE/OFF V12s

WA V16, 2026 limited edition

Hi, I've been scratching my head over this for a while, should I get this CGS m16a1 as my first gbbr, is CGS a solid system at the moment or should I just save more money and go for VFC, please lemme know in the comments, thanks 🎀

I was recommended to buy this part, but unfortunately, it is currently out of stock.

Could you please tell me if these other two parts work the same way?

Also, do you know why there is such a big price difference between them?

Which one would you recommend?

Thank you for your help!

Hi everyone!

This is my first time posting on a forum. I'm having an issue with my Tokyo Marui MP7. I've had the replica stored away for almost a year now, and I'd like to get it fixed because I feel bad leaving it like this, especially since I really like it (when it works properly).

The problem is that the replica either doesn't fire or at least doesn't fire as it should. The first shot always fires if I pull the trigger "hard", but the following shots in semi-auto either don't fire at all or have a noticeable delay.

I'm not sure what could be causing this. I've heard that some people experience the "death trigger" issue, but it doesn't seem to match my problem exactly.

Could someone point me in the right direction or help me figure this out?

Thanks in advance!

Gotta love obsolete flashlights
VFC MP5 & Kimber 1911

Greetings!

G36C users from VFC, what are your thoughts on this machine? Any cons? Winter performance? Any recommendations I need to consider?

Mowing from a WE G36.

Thanks in advance!

Will try to replicate the set up from BF6 in the future.

Hi, I've been scratching my head over this for a while, should I get this CGS m16a1 as my first gbbr, is CGS a solid system at the moment or should I just save more money and go for VFC, please lemme know in the comments, thanks 🎀

For the past few weeks, I’ve been running into an issue where the hammer spring on the right side of the trigger slips off, completely blocking the trigger and preventing the AK from firing. The temporary fix is ​​simple: just lift the spring back up and reposition it over the trigger. Unfortunately, it tends to slip off again after about 100 rounds. I’m constantly worried it’s going to happen again, which has turned my VFC AK from an extremely reliable platform into one that’s completely unreliable. Has anyone else experienced this? Do you have any ideas for a long-term fix? Could it be that my hammer spring was manufactured too short or bent incorrectly at the factory? Do you think installing a new spring would solve the problem permanently assuming a new one would be the correct length to stay in place? Or should I try bending the current spring myself?

Last picture is how it should be.

Hi guys, I just wanted to let everyone know that I finished my PM7 project. The main idea was to get one and not fire even a single shot until the upgrades arrived. I already tested it and it worked marvelously. I sincerely recommend the Full Steel MP7 chassis and backplate upgrades