I’m in canada so I winter drive the car. Not looking to slam, maybe an inch or 1.25”. Been checking out dinan springs and ST coils but I don’t track the car it’s simply a daily.

I’m planning to do suspension work on my car, not sure if this the right place to jack it on the front

Can’t believe I’m making one of these posts but the damage seems minimal for a pro shop but I guess it depends on my insurance

I’m stuck waiting for caa no leaks or airbags fortunately

Alright team, what do I do.

F30 340i extended leather trim.

Went to a professional tint shop on the northern beaches and got my car back with the leather dash looking like this. Very disappointed in the result to be honest.

I even explicitly asked them beforehand how they protect the interior trims and they assured me they cover everything in towels.

It’s an eye sore now. You may think I’m exaggerating, but I think it’s justified.

What do I do…?

UPDATE:
Shop owner has agreed to find a solution. My next question is does anyone know if bmw still sells the leather dash option for RHD F30 with HUD?

Anyone selling a manual 340i in socal im looking to buy one (rwd)

Tubo y embrague motor precio 230000km y se va a hacer el cambio de distribución casquillos y pistones

Volante motor y embrague BMW 420d f32 n47 cabio precio

I own a BMW F30 320i with an N20 engine. The production date on the identification plate is 11/17. I’m wondering whether it makes sense to replace the timing chain as a preventive measure, and if so, at what mileage it should be replaced, or whether I should just keep driving until the first signs of wear appear.

Wayglass — new things your NBT Evo BMW can do
They are making a tool to have self diagnosis on the nbt, and you can even clear faults, how amazing is this?

Hello everyone,

I have an NBT EVO 6, and I’m unsure if Apple CarPlay was installed as an aftermarket option or not. However, I’m experiencing an issue with the connection.

CarPlay only works when the phone is placed in the cupholders, near the Wi-Fi antenna. As soon as I remove the phone, it disconnects, and when I place it back near the cupholders, it reconnects within a few seconds.

Has anyone else encountered this issue, or does anyone have any idea what might be causing it?

Can anybody identify what sound is this ? F32 BMW 420d LCI 2019

Just wondering if anyone has done a retrofit to convert their type 1 charging port to a type 2 port.

In theory it could be done as they are both AC charging and the pins are the same. But I can't seem to find anyone who has done this online.

Reason I wanted to do this is because type 2 has become the standard charging method in my country and most of the chargers are tethered type 2 chargers. I don't want to use the one piece solid adapters as the extra added length would add strain to my charging port.

I have this sound in dead zone while stirring left- right while standing

while driving everything is ok

should i replace this thing now?

i read almost all f30 have this sound?

BACKSTORY:
About two weeks ago, I had a mechanic replace my Valvetronic motor with a cheap aftermarket one from a brand called URO.
At the same time, I also had my oil filter housing gasket replaced.
The car drove perfectly fine for two weeks with absolutely no issues.
Today, I did a pretty hard pull, revved the engine pretty high, and shifted gears. Immediately afterward, I got a drivetrain malfunction warning, and the car went into limp mode.

CURRENT SYMPTOMS:
Extremely rough idle, almost like the engine is misfiring.
RPMs fluctuate and drop below 1,000.
Sometimes the engine completely stalls on its own.
Extremely delayed throttle response.
When I press the accelerator, almost nothing happens initially.
I have to hold the accelerator down for around 2 seconds before the RPMs finally rise, sometimes shooting toward 6,000 RPM.
Car is currently stuck in limp mode.

DME FAULT CODES:
103008 – Accelerator pedal module, pedal encoder 1, working range: voltage too low.
103002 – Accelerator pedal module, pedal encoder 1, electrical: short circuit to ground.
1F1A90 – Monitoring 5V sensor supply: voltage outside the valid range.
104402 – Absolute pressure sensor, intake manifold, electrical: short circuit to ground.
135808 – Valvetronic servomotor, position sensors, electrical: malfunction.
ADDITIONAL INFORMATION:
I have a brand-new battery that has already been registered/coded to the vehicle.
The Valvetronic motor was replaced only two weeks ago with a cheap aftermarket unit.
The car was running perfectly fine until the hard pull.
All these issues appeared immediately afterward.

MY QUESTIONS:
Could the cheap aftermarket Valvetronic motor have failed after only two weeks?
Could a bad Valvetronic motor or its position sensor cause these other electrical codes?
Since I’m getting multiple short-to-ground codes and a 5V sensor supply fault, could this actually be one sensor or wiring issue causing everything?
Could something have gotten damaged or disconnected during the Valvetronic motor or oil filter housing gasket replacement?

anyone experienced these exact codes or symptoms on an N55? What was the actual fix?
I’m really hoping this is something electrical rather than a major mechanical issue.
The weirdest part is that the car was driving absolutely perfectly until I did that hard pull. Everything happened immediately afterward.
I really don’t want to throw another Valvetronic motor at it without knowing for sure.
Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated!

I wanna get new rims and according to apex’s website 19x9 ET30 is a flush setup. But I am also lowered on h and r sport springs. I also wanna keep my current tires are they are new and have 5 years of warranty left on them. But I wanna keep it a squared setup since I am AWD. So I was wondering is anyone running the same or similar setup?

P24ae just popped up, no drivability issues any advice on how to fix?

Hey pals - I’ve been keeping up with maintenance / wear items on my 2016 328i x-drive (n20) but haven’t been able to identify the recommended replacement mileage for coil packs.

Some posts say 100k miles, some say wait until one dies (doesn’t seem smart).

My last experience was with my x3 3.0si and I replaced them around 140k…. Which was probably too late as the car drove much better after the work.

Thanks in advance!

Bought some cheap 359m reps in 18 inch. Ngl, I kinda like these more than my summer setup (last slide). Think it’s the color more than anything.

Quick question. How the hell I can get rid of this message? I know this is MOT message, my MOT was done, I changed this date on iDrive so is on green but it always shows on my app. I was trying reboot the iDrive, reinstalling the app, updating connected drive etc. any ideas?