I currently have an E90 with a single hump dashboard (no iDrive). I’m thinking about upgrading to a double hump dashboard, but I wanted to get your opinions first.

Has anyone here made this switch?

Is it actually worth the hassle (time, effort, and cost), or is it more trouble than it’s worth?

How is the fitment and overall look afterward? Does it feel solid, or do you run into rattles/alignment issues over time?

For context, I'm planning to either install an aftermarket Android screen or keep it clean, but I'm on the fence about whether the double hump conversion is a good mod.

Would love to hear your thoughts, experiences, or any advice! Thanks in advance.

Good lookin coupe for 3 grand or nah?

I picked up this 09 335i a couple of months ago and I absolutely love it, but the exterior is really beat up and I plan to take it to a body shop for paint and dent repair. Problem I’m having is, I really like the M3 style front bumper that one of the previous owners installed, and I actually like the base rear bumper, but I’m afraid that they’re not cohesive together.

I also don’t have unlimited money. Initially my plan was to MAYBE get M3 style side skirts since I can’t find M Tech side skirts ANYWHERE, an M Tech rear bumper, and get a 335is style rear diffuser and paint it since the regular M Tech diffuser is really boring. I’m also getting a small trunk lip, paint matched. But I kind of like the base rear bumper.

Is it fine if I leave it as is? Or is the front bumper too sporty and the rear too plain?

I don’t know if it’s the psychology of “front is sporty and rear is not, therefore it doesn’t work”, or if it actually doesn’t work together.

I considered getting a base front bumper but to be perfectly honest, I just don’t like it. I also considered an M Tech front bumper and maybe leaving the rest as is, but honestly the M3 style and M Tech front bumper are so similar, it just seems like a waste of money.

Thanks in advance!

Hey guys, quick introduction to myself: I’m an embedded software engineer with experience in avionics and aerospace systems. I am also a big car guy that’s always tinkering and creating gadgets for my own cars.

I’ve been working on this gauge for my F87 M2 and I’ve gotten quite a bit of traction on it. It has me considering offering a public version. I’ve worked on custom gauges for people with OEM ECUs and standalones. I developed this particular gauge out of necessity. I simply did not like using my phone to connect to the MHD app to view my cars telemetry and I did not like having to drive, do a few pulls, then send them to my pc and use another software to analyze the full throttle segments. And more importantly I did want to spend $500 on a mediocre gauge. This gauge is more than just a gauge for me it’s also a data logger, a black box, exhaust controller, and diagnostics controller.

Current features I’ve developed so far:
- Wireless. It can connect to any WiFi OBD2 Dongle. It currently connects to my MHD ENET dongle.
- Easy installation. Just connect to USB 5v power.
- Logs 70+ channels including RAM specific channels. Specific channels would vary by DME software version but a set of channels will be available for many cars not just BMW ( you can check my page for one I made for a Toyota Camry lol ).
- AMOLED display with a refresh rate of 30fps. If you’d prefer 60fps I can do that as well but I think it’s a bit overkill for this application. I have a demo of 60fps on my page if you’re interested in seeing it. The gauge is built on a waveshare esp32-s3
- Logging. It supports SD cards up to 128gb and it logs 70+ channels continuously at 20hz.
- Automatic Wide Open Throttle detection. Or full throttle events, or pulls. Whatever you wanna call it. Anytime you do a pull, the gauge automatically records it and gives you a small report right after the pull.
- Smart exhaust valve setup. If you have a valvetronics or other aftermarket valved exhaust that uses a remote then this gauge can communicate with that system. You can open/close the valves manually. And setup what I call Auto mode which controls the exhaust valves based on custom parameters like RPM and Boost. On my M2 I have it so that the controller sends the commands at over 3500rpm and over 10psi. This can be configured to your liking.
- Not showed in this post, but I also have a diagnostics page in which you can read and clear codes. You can check the gauge I made for the Toyota Camry with diagnostics page implemented.

This is my own setup but it’s very customizable and I’d like to see what you guys think. Anyone with a curious mind and a keyboard can build their own gauge nowadays. My target would be for those that don’t feel too comfortable doing it themselves and don’t want to spend $500 on a gauge like P3 and Canchecked. If a small round gauge isn’t your style then what size display would make you interested? I also have a 7in version I’m working on for a customer.

Again, very open to feedback since I’m considering full sending if there’s enough interest.

Whilst changing out a front lower rear control arm, I found a failed/failing ground strap, driver side. Copper braid was totally degraded and crumbles in my hand. Have ordered an upgraded replacement from ECS TUNING, ...am hoping this was the cause of my pesky and fleeting electrical gremlins. Will post again when I get it in.

how do i make the second eye brighter :(
rate the picture though 👀

Followed a Koenigsegg through the Swiss mountain passes a while back — easily the craziest sight I've come across on the road.

What's the rarest or coolest machine you've randomly run into during a trip? Drop your photos below!

November is around the corner so I’ll probably wait until Black Friday to try and save a few dollars. Are flow formed wheels stronger than factory bmw wheels? I mean they’re obviously not as strong as forged but are they at least better than stock?

I have a 06 330xi e90 with 241,000 miles. I believe it has the ZF6HP19 and it slips from 4-5. 5th gear also seems like its had it. Just wondering if anybody has had any success with additives in these or if you can even do it. I’d love to save this car or even prolong its inevitable end. Thank you.

Hello!
Do you think this oil is leaking from the cylinder head or from somewhere above.
Thank you in advance.
E90 330i N52

Hi everyone i have a quick (maybe dumb) question. I got a 2009 BMW 328i from my parent's friend, who said they took care of it. Turns out they didn't and I'm fixing it. I changed the oil in later july early August with a new oil filter (the old one literally crumbled in my hand). Im changing the oil but do I need to change the filter too? The filter has lile 2 months, the oil about the same but idk when the last oil change was before me.

Edit: will be changing the filter then but tomorrow since i forgot to buy one and the store was closed. Also will be keeping a record of every maintenence done if I ever sell it.

hey yall. was doing a bunch of maintenance work to get it prepped for winter and any future mods. this sound is still haunting me though, i genuinely have no idea what it could be. (best heard 8-10s into the vid)

stuff ive done that couldve been related:
- vanos solenoid (replaced both with brand new BMW ones)
- full valve cover assembly done by BMW
- idler pulley and tensioner though i doubt it wouldve done that

pushed the car hard to get oil to the top of the engine as some suggested.

things of note:
- ‘chugging’ sound kind of like a train
- there is a hissing sound coming from left side of the engine bay.
- removed the oil cap to see if it was a pressure thing, sound remained but smoke seen. exhaust has black soot on it too.
- occurs in idle in d, p, n and r, doesnt happen on start until idle settles to ~600-650 rpm
- no codes

vacuum leak? vanos check valves? my imagination?

pls halp

08' 335xi N54 
Vehicle had been sitting for about 1.5 months due to work travel. Go to start up (without charging the battery first, my bad) and cranks but the interior lights flicker. Does not start. Use my NOCO to charge the battery up, and second time trying to start does not even crank. Electrics inside work, and can hear the fuel pump running when pressing the ignition to start. 

Pulled my ISTA laptop out to find codes and got the following
2E84 - BSD: electric coolant pump: missing (not existent)

5EBA - DSC: steering angle sensor, plausibility (existent)

A0B4 - CAS: engine start, starter operation (existent)

A0C1 - CAS: output, terminal 50 (existent)

A0C2 - CAS: output, terminal 50 RS (existent)

The battery is now having a hard time keeping a charge, and even getting to full with the NOCO directly. Work has kept me away so all of this has now happened last month. So the original problem was around 2.5 months ago for reference. 

I want to note the car had the DME blow late 2025 (new MSD80 installed), and in the hunt for that issue a new fuse box unit was installed, and all grounding straps were checked and cleaned (along with a bunch of other wiring). Since then, the car has been driven every couple of weeks around the block, but nothing more until it sat because of work travel. It has less than 100 miles since this work was done in April of 2026. 

I have yet to run the battery over to Autozone for a quick health check, but I figure that is a good start. Or a potential starter burnout?

Any help is appreciated. TIA! 

(also if you are selling a pre-lci black sapphire metallic hood let me know!)

J’aimerai changer les phafes sur ma e90 noir. Que me conseillez vous ..? Led ou non ? Xénon ? Anneau lumineux ? La couleurs...jaune... blanc ? Bleutée ?? Je sais pas quoi faire .. les miens sont d’origine mais tres ternie. Je ne vais pas les restaurer moi meme je vais repartir sur du neuf, je voudrais quelquechose qui garde un phare agressif et moderne...

Merci à vous.

Never replaced a gasket b4 so I’m not sure if it being bent and twisted like this messed it up. Would hate to have it installed and it fails bc of this. just wondering if it should still be good or I should ask FCP euro to replace.