2 weeks ago dealership changed the Exhaust sensor, now we are going back to dealership. 2022 Duramax 3.0 with 33800 miles and 3rd time with Emissions issues . Amazing truck but “Hate” these stupid issues

We changed the seal in the fuel filter housing and ever since then it would sound like it lobe or chung a little under acceleration and a little at idle. Today though is the first time doing this. Does anyone know what might cause this.

Seen some people have issues before. Now my buddy is getting this. Any insight guys?

Pretty sure this means the dash has gotta come out right?

So long story short I did my injectors and I have this fuel leak coming down the front of my engine by the fan. I can’t see the leak from the top only coming down the front of the engine and the injectors and valve cover to not seem to be leaking any fuel. Also my fuel filter housing and hosing is all good and also not leaking. Any idea where this could be coming from? 2003 Duramax LB7 gmc 2500HD.

I’ve seen some people have been pairing a tr6060 to the LMM duramax. Does anyone have any idea as to how they are getting these to tune right for fueling while in gear, or even just how they are communicating that it’s in gear?

Looking for advice, for my truck. I’m looking to make some more power and I found this tuner I can get fairly cheap, I have a 2007 classic with the LBZ, it still has the egr and vgt turbo, I just finished headgaskets 2000 miles ago and it straight piped and has a “cold” air intake. I feel like if I bought it I would do the heaviest tune and cook myself. Which if I was home I would say fuck it and run it anyway see what happens but, I’m in Texas right now for training, and live in Michigan. So what’s everyone’s advice. For my situation should I do or should I skip entirely?

It's bad either way but is this atf or coolant by the look of it . It seems way too red to be coolant . Then again it's leaking above the oil cooler and at the bottom of the driver side up pipe .

06 LBZ, started having an extremely tough shift from 2nd to 3rd the past month. Came out of nowhere, itll flare up after 2nd gear and than slam into gear and make ya smack your head off the seat. One time it even made my tires screech. I’m looking for advice on if there a fix or just accept that she’s toast!

Long story short I have a 2006 lbz that came with a 5 position switch tune when I bought it. I wanted to watch engine pids when driving down the road so I bought a second had cts2 with attitude. When I plugged it in it did it thing and next thing I know I’m getting an error message and my truck won’t start anymore. What is my options to get it back to where it was?

I have a very clean 06 lbz with under 100k. I want to do so much to it d&t hsp high flow kit and a few other things. Looking at dumping 10-15 into this thing and praying I can see 250-300k out of the motor before it lets go. (Fully expecting to have to do head gaskets regardless of what tune gets put on). Yes I’ve seen all the high milage trucks. Most are stock tow rigs. It’s mainly going to be used for towing but every once n a while I’ll light the tires up. But what am I really going to be expecting once it’s tuned as far as life expectancy. I could easily do everything I wanted and not tune it but if I’m going all out I’d like to throw a 5 position on it.

I Used to have a 07 that was pretty hit was running on its last leg and was real ragged on it was tuned and it put me thru the ringer fixing it before I just gave up on it. Trying not to repeat what my clapped out one with 230k did to me

I got an L5P id like to get some work done too in the Nashville area. Anyone have a good diesel mechanic they recommend? TIA

Kinda difficult to catch on video, my truck sounds like crap when on the throttle. It used to sound smooth but I hear it loud as ever now. In the morning when it’s cool outside in the worst. It gets better when it warms up but never great in my opinion. I’ll post another video in the comments

Fixing up this 2004.5 LLY duramax and i was wondering if this intercooler was stock, it doesnt look like it because of the radiator and cooler stack behind it. Im also thinking thats where the coolant is leaking from since its all wet with coolant

I had gotten this truck about three years ago when my grandpa passed I always thought the transmission was a little bit fucked up and then one day it put itself into limp mode since then I have done everything conceivable to this transmission. It has had a full billet rebuild with an ATS performance valve body. The full complete harness has been verified and tested. The TCM has been reflashed and repaired I have replaced each shift to solenoid and the pressure switch for the valve body. I’ve checked engine grounds and I have tested everything with the scanner. Everything I’ve done looked at or anyone else has done or looked at with this transmission it seems to pass and it should be good, but it throws p0872 transmission, pressure solenoid switch E stuck closed every time it is put into drive and forces it into fourth gear it can go into park reverse and neutral just fine. It is whenever I put it into drive it shifts into first gear for about four seconds and then slams itself into fourth. I’ve been chasing this for two years and put about seven grand of work into this transmission, the motor and body and interior are super good, but I’m at my ends and I’m about to sell this truck

I was having a a P0101 code every now and then and it would never go into “reduced power mode” but the truck had no power. I would clear the code right away and it ran fine after. Definitely running rich with from what I could smell. Truck is tuned & DPF delete w/ 5” straight pipe, not that it matters in this situation really. Pressure tested the boost side and found a leak, I am just having a hard time identifying what part/gasket it is leaking between. Looks like it may be y bridge time? It just looks like it’s leaking from the intake crossover part to the top of the y bridge if I’m looking at it right. Any info or suggestions on what to do next would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

My truck is tune delete and after a rebuild my truck sounds different . To me it sounds like a exhaust leak . It also sounds like it needs a valve adjustment . When the truck idle it sounds ok but when I accelerate it's changed tune . I'll have to make another video

Had some noises popping under my feet and on the passenger side as well. 308k on these. Installed sb silicone bushings. Super easy install and very noticeable ride improvement. Body and bed line up perfectly. Wish I had done this sooner.

Here's why you should NOT be using feed limit deletes in your 10L1000 or 10L80 valve body and transmission.

A feed limit delete may fix your current P0747 code and make the transmission feel like it's operating as it should, but that doesn't mean everything is functioning correctly. You can't always trust how something feels. You need to look deeper and evaluate the effects of the modification. That's exactly what I did.

In the picture labeled "Factory Valve Body," you'll see that all clutch pressures (white = A Clutch, yellow = D Clutch, and blue = F Clutch) follow the main line pressure (green = Main Clutch), with only a small deviation of less than 4%. In other words, in factory form, whatever pressure the pump produces is what gets sent to the clutch packs.

All the data logs were recorded at 100% throttle. And the pressure spikes on the graph are normal during operation. The TCM commands higher pressure during shifts and reduces pressure in the middle of a gear.

Now, in the second photo labeled "Feed Limit Delete Valve Body," you'll notice that A Clutch pressure is regulated at 134 psi, while F Clutch pressure is regulated at 206 psi.

That's a significant reduction in clutch pressure—up to 61.5% less pressure to the A and B clutch packs and up to 33.5% less pressure to the C and F clutch packs.

If you have a TCM tune or have installed a shift kit designed to increase pressure, circuits A, B, C, and F will not benefit from those pressure increases as intended.

So, the easiest way to explain what the feed limits do is this: they release the balance pressure from the shift valves. That balance pressure helps return the shift valve to its off state, which releases the applied clutch pack.

When the balance pressure isn't properly relieved, the shift valve will not fully stroke, causing the clutch pack to operate at a regulated pressure.

Putting the feelers out, minor mechanical issues, and light cosmetic issues. 245k, Eaton 5 speed, forged Weld 17” wheels, edge tuner, on the fly. 4x4 works perfectly. 5” exhaust full length, Oil and service at every 3000 miles. Possible trade.

I dented my rear bumper. Can’t find one local.

Better to get shipped from a scrapyard or buy one from eBay?

eBay ones seem cheaper, but I’m worried about quality.

Any experience?

I drove the truck last night perfectly fine, remote started it this morning, ran for like a minute then died. I tried cranking it manually with the key and it cranked but no start. Code p2635 popped up saying “Fuel pump A low flow/ performance” the ticking noise sounds like it’s coming straight from the fuel tank and it makes that noise every time I unlock the truck. If anyone knows what this is please let me know. thanks!

Its dripping right onto the oil level sensor . The other obvious problem is it's leaking onto the transfer case and it's getting slung around . I sent a borescope up by that area and it's coming from underneath the driver side up pipe . My fluid aren't low either and I was wondering if this is dexcool or atf ? Can this also be a leaking hydro boost ?