Hi everyone!

I'm part of the team behind Guard the Yard, a podcast hosted by Yeardley Smith.

We just released an interview with Emma Hunt and wanted to share it with the competition climbing community (with the mods' permission!).

One part of the conversation I found interesting was Emma talking about the future of speed climbing. She talked about the standardized route, how athletes continue to find ways to shave time off their climbs, and whether there's a point where the current route will limit how fast anyone can go.

I'm really curious what any speed climbers in here think about the future of the sport. Do you think the standardized route should stay the same indefinitely, or would you eventually like to see it evolve?

It was new to me when we recorded this episode and I find it really interesting.

Hope you guys enjoy the discussion!

The LA28 qualifying format is stressing me out. Here are my guesses for the 24 athletes qualifying for boulder (maybe I'll take a stab at lead as well?):

* I have no idea regarding the one spot awarded to the top placing athlete at the African Championships. I can't even figure out who the winners were at South African Champs this year, but if anyone has this info let me know! I do believe South Africa is the only country entering athletes to the world circuit right now but I'm not entirely sure so my guesses are purely off those scores, I know nothing about the athletes though at all. *

Women's Boulder:

- Janja Garnbret (SLO)

- Oriane Bertone (FRA)

- Erin McNeice (GBR)

- Oceania MacKenzie (AUS)

- Annie Sanders (USA)

- Melody Sekikawa (JPN)

- Yuetong Zhang (CHN)

- Mao Nakamura (JPN)

- Brooke Raboutou (USA)

- Zelia Avezou (FRA)

- Camilla Moroni (ITA)

- Courtney Carol Schagen (RSA)

The people that I think are also in the mix:

- Ayala Kerem (ISR)

- Anon Matsufuji (JPN)

- Miho Nonaka (JPN)

- Futaba Ito (JPN)

- Natalia Grossman (USA)

- Melina Costanza (USA)

- Agathe Calliet (FRA)

- Naile Meignan (FRA) (does anyone know her status??)

- Emma Edwards (GBR)

- Jenny Buckley (SLO)

Men's Boulder:

- Sorato Anraku (JPN)

- Dohyun Lee (KOR)

- Mejdi Schalck (FRA)

- Sohta Amagasa (JPN)

- Max Milne (GBR)

- Hannas van Duysen (BEL)

- Colin Duffy (USA)

- Yufei Pan (CHN)

- Toby Roberts (GBR)

- Sam Avezou (FRA)

- Dylan Parks (AUS) (also not sure about this one, if anyone is more familiar with Oceania men's boulderers let me know)

- Jack Buckingham (RSA)

Also in the mix:

- Rei Kamawata (JPN)

- Tomoa Narasaki (JPN)

- Meichi Narasaki (JPN)

- Adi Bark (ISR)

- Sam Richard (FRA)

- Max Bertone (FRA)

- Jongwon Chon (KOR)

- Dayan Akhtar (GBR)

- Jack MacDougall (GBR)

- Jan Luca Posch (AUT)

Honestly both fields feel wide open at the moment, and its much to far to predict. Does anyone else have thoughts? 12 women and 12 men feels heartbreakingly low haha

Edit: In no way do I expect to be close at all - but I’m just preparing myself for the heartbreak that will come when so many athletes inevitably get locked out of a spot 💔 I hope the IOC continues to increase the number of athletes for the next olympic cycle

Hi everyone! My name is Mercury Huang and I’m currently working on my thesis about a bouldering-related project and would love to hear from other climbers about how you approach problems, find beta, and use climbing content.

The survey is anonymous and takes about 3 minutes to complete:

https://forms.gle/JLecJvLz8nCmRQQWA

Whether you’re new to bouldering or have been climbing for years, your input would be super helpful.

Thanks so much! And feel free to share it with other climbers too 🫶

Hey guys 😊

I’m Sondre, a calisthenics athlete and coach who's also very interested in climbing. After getting the green light from the mods, I’m sharing a survey I’m hoping you’ll answer. The results will be used in a YouTube video with Magnus Midtbø and Emil Abrahamsson. It’ll be educational first, with some entertainment sprinkled in.

https://zs2lf6voomw.typeform.com/to/EmdLLqWF

It is is anonymous and looks at how climbers do strength training, which exercises they use, how strength level relates to climbing level, and what calisthenics and climbing have in common.

Every answer helps make the educational quality of the video better. I’m happy to share the anonymous data and a summary with anyone who wants it.

Thank you 🙏

Here is the live discussion thread for the Women’s Lead final at the WCS in Santiago, Chile!

Event Time: Sunday, October 25, 18:00 CLST (UTC -3) (see what time this event starts in other places)

USEFUL RESOURCES/LINKS

Please note that this discussion is NOT spoiler free! As always, please be respectful to climbers and fellow Redditors.

Climb On!

Here is the live discussion thread for the Lead Semi Finals at the WCS in Santiago, Chile!

Event Time: Sunday, October 25, 09:00 – 11:30 CLST (UTC -3) (see what time this event starts in other places)

USEFUL RESOURCES/LINKS

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Climb On!

Boulder comp form St. Paul, Minnesota with pro climbers. Winners will get ticket to PCL! Commentary with Charlie Bosco.

Finalists (previous rounds were not streamed)

Women: Dj ORTIZ, Liesl HETZEL, Jennifer BUCKLEY, Adriene CLARK, Cloe COSCOY, Melina COSTANZA

Men: Hugo HOYER, Samuel RICHARD, Ben HANNA, Matthew RODRIGUEZ, Auggie CHI, Ardch INTRACHUPONGSE

Live stream at 7PM CDT - YouTube

Official site, Instagram

Here is the live discussion thread for the Speed Climbing events at the WCS in Santiago, Chile!

Schedule

Men's Qualifications: Friday, October 23, 17:20 – 18:30 CLST (UTC -3) (see what time this event starts in other places)
Women's Qualifications: Friday, October 23, 19:50 – 20:40 CLST (UTC -3) (see what time this event starts in other places)
Men's and Women's Speed Finals: Saturday, October 24, 18:00 – 19:15 CLST (UTC -3) (see what time this event starts in other places)

USEFUL RESOURCES/LINKS

Please note that this discussion is NOT spoiler free! As always, please be respectful to climbers and fellow Redditors.

Climb On!

Here is the live discussion thread for the Men's and Women's Lead Qualifications at the WCS in Santiago, Chile!

QUALIFICATIONS SCHEDULE

Women's Qualifications: 23 October 09:00 – 13:00 CLST (UTC -3) (see what time this event starts in other places)
Men's Qualifications: 24 October 09:00 – 13:30 CLST (UTC -3) (see what time this event starts in other places)

USEFUL RESOURCES/LINKS

Please note that this discussion is NOT spoiler free! As always, please be respectful to climbers and fellow Redditors.

Climb On!

From rednote

I’m curious from anyone who was there. How was it viewing the comp from the stadium seats? From watching via the livestream, it’s seemed a bit far away to see much without binoculars or large screens.

How did this venue compare? Seems it holds a larger audience But not necessarily ideal for bouldering?

This was during qualis. There was a large line of people who wanted to get photos or signatures from Orianne. I can’t imagine how insane the line would have been during semis or finals when more people were present.

She stayed and took pictures with everyone who waited if you’re curious :)

Discussion on the Women’s final/overall season title

Sorry for the delay, I passed out halfway through the round last night.

Live discussion thread for the women's boulder final in SLC, USA!

Event Time: 19:00 MDT (GMT-6) (timeanddate)

Comp Hub

Live Scoring/Results

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Climb On!

This post about an Israeli athlete was full of “free palestine” and “🇵🇸” comments earlier, and now they’re all gone…

https://www.instagram.com/worldclimbing/reel/DenyE1Igwm5/

Live discussion thread for the women's boulder semi-final in SLC, USA!

Event Time: 10:00 MDT (GMT-6) (timeanddate)

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Live Scoring/Results

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I love watching replays of world climbing competitions (Matt Groom and his guests are chef's kiss) but I also love watching different formats.

I tried to rank them :

1/ Rockmaster - KO boulder

➕ Rules are easy to understand, super entertaining, top athletes who are given a proper chance to top a boulder, and great camera work.
➖ you either love the Italian commentators or you hate them, and sometimes a little bit of both 😂 I understand everything they say coz I speak italian (I'm French), their commentating style is sooooo italian to me ! But I definitely love how they make the athletes shine. Once an athlete solve a problem boulder the others can just try to "copy", so some people may find that format less exciting.

2/ Pro climbing league

➕ Rules are easy to understand, super entertaining, top athletes, great camera work.

➖ Each duel goes too fast (due to the setting ?) and it's frustrating to see top athletes not able to showcase their abilities. Not a fan of the first edition's setting, where it was undercooked for the women s finals.

3/ Team boulder arena

➕ Love the team effort, entertaining, some top athlètes

➖ Not the best camera work/editing, rules are not always that clear to me (losing top athletes on boulder one is cruel, why sooooooo many boulders), I did not like the commentators of the Milan edition.

4/ The north face climb festival

➕ Most spectacular comp, scary jump at the top

➖ Replays not always available, not many top pro athletes, not the best camera work

Ps: not bouldering but seeing Jessie and Jakob climb a frigging DAM was amazing (redbull event of course) !

What are yours ???

Share your thoughts and feelings but please keep discussion related to comp climbing. Negativity towards individual users will not be tolerated. Participation limited to members who regularly participate in/contribute to the sub.

Does anyone know how to get tickets for this event? Or am I too late and they're sold out. I can't see too much info about this at all.

My friend had to bail on joining me today so I have an extra lower level ticket. If anyone is interested send me a message. This is for SLC today

Live discussion thread for the men's boulder final in SLC, USA!

Event Time: 19:00 MDT (GMT-6) (timeanddate)

Comp Hub

Live Scoring/Results

Please note that this discussion is NOT spoiler free! As always, please be respectful to climbers and fellow Redditors.

Climb On!