What do you guys do to prevent clogs inbetween uses?? I've tried lowering it into a cup of water (best results so far) and wrapping a wet paper towel in a baggie with a rubber band around it? Any advice is appreciated

I followed your advice and added more water to the clay, and I have to say the flow is almost perfect. When hydrating and mixing hard clay by hand, I noticed that if I don't let it rest, the water is only absorbed on the surface, leaving some areas inside slightly harder than others. This causes a slight inconsistency in the flow during printing.

I was thinking of using an old pasta-making machine to mix the clay. What do you think? How do you mix large quantities of clay for 3D printing?

I've also done some interesting tests by playing around with the amplitude and swapping the piping bag nozzles. The results are quite simple, and I wasn't able to finish the prints because there wasn't enough material left in the cartridge, but I can finally start developing some more interesting designs.

I got an old 3d printer a Sidewinder x1 heavily modded, I got a newer gen 3d printer and my good old machine is now gathering dust....
So what's the best option to make it a ceramic 3d printer, I read and researched not much but changing the extruder head is the best option, i dont want to deal with an air compressor, or its better to use it.

I am ready to get into another frustrating and addictive hobby.

We had some clay to use up in the studio, and also wanting to do some test firings when the kiln arrives, so it was make-some-small-test-prints day; and here are the ones I didn't accidentally knock over. None of these have bases, they're just fancy tubes.

I've been using drawing-machines/pen-plotters for several years now, creating SVGs and GCODE for them, the move into the 3rd upwards dimension when the WASP Delta 40100 arrived wasn't too hard. The last three images are example screenshots showing my utterly horrid UI which has been wrangled from my pen plotter designing tools to do stuff with Perlin noise, sine waves and the usual stuff in the z-axis 😁 Also explains why I'm designing pots on an A4 sized 'sheet of paper'.

I added in a few things to play with extrusion rates, to make walls thicker and thinner, and some 'tilting' code to make non-planar bodies, because why not and it's just maths, although I haven't done enough to figure out where the limits are yet.

All printed on the Wasp 40100 from either Sio-2 Artemis or Vulcan. New kiln is arriving at the end of the week so really looking forward to firing some of these. Biggest issue so far is mixing the clay by hand. It's not difficult but it's quite physical and time consuming, plus I've found that you really need to let the clay sit for at least 24hrs post mixing for even water absorption.

Bonus pics of my current Grasshopper set-up. I can print non-planar with true extrusion compensation and spiralized if desired. Obviously without being able to tilt the extruder (with a robot arm set-up) non-planar has its limitations and you'll still end up with extremely thin walls on angled/flatter sections. All of these prints are with a 4mm nozzle and a single wall.

After a long time, I’ve finally managed to complete the design of my clay 3D printer. I had documented a few prints in the past, but the results were never particularly great. Today, I spent some time tweaking the parameters and managed to get the clay to a pretty good consistency. Here’s the result!

Over the next few weeks, I’ll start sharing some more interesting projects and my new setup. In the meantime, as always, if anyone has any advice or suggestions, I’m all ears ;)

At WASP, we have been working with both FGF (Fused Granulate Fabrication) and LDM (Liquid Deposition Modeling) for years. Recently, we started using both extrusion systems within the same print, alternating them layer by layer.

The idea is to use plastic as reinforcement within an earthen structure, making it possible to create geometries that would tend to collapse during printing when made with earth alone.

We’re also exploring what happens when the object reaches the end of its useful life. Rather than creating a permanent composite, we want the reinforcement to be removable, allowing the plastic and earth to be recovered separately.

In a world where plastic is now practically everywhere and continues to accumulate as waste, perhaps the question is no longer simply how to eliminate it, but how we can make it coexist responsibly with what we consider natural.

How would you use this type of technology?

Hii

I have a creality ender 3 v3 ke and one broken monoprice maker select 3d printer. I wanna try modding it to be a ceramic 3d printer but I do not know how to get started.

I looked at the guide linked on the wiki but that website is saying page not found.

hello, i am from egypt and i want to buy a 3d clay printer from china but i am really confused between tronxy and eazao. and i didnt find any recommendations. PLEASE I WANT YOUR RECOMMENDATIONS what to buy. i will use it to make tableware and MUGs

Hey everyone, I hope you’re all doing well!

I finally had some time to get back to working on my clay 3D printer after quite a while. I’ll show you some of the improvements I’ve managed to make soon!

In the meantime, I’ve been studying Grasshopper quite a lot and discovering new ways of manipulating G-code that were completely new to me. I also had the chance to attend the very first edition of La Maquina Academy, which was a really interesting experience.

I wanted to share some of the pages I’ve found particularly interesting for getting inspiration, experimenting, and learning:

• cera.lab — probably one of the pages that inspired and stimulated me the most
• emmanuelhugnot
• stogerhaus
• betiana.jpg
• claywovenofficial
• bitsandclay
• Slightly off-topic, but juengerkuehn was an incredible discovery
• Also, for anyone who is just getting started with clay 3D printing and would like to learn more, I’d definitely recommend checking out u/UnfoldDesignStudio course. It contains a lot of useful information and is a great starting point for understanding the basics and exploring the possibilities of clay 3D printing.

There are also a few books I’d really like to explore further:

• 45 Symbols – Clay to Code
• C-A-M 23/24
• Claying Architecture

As for G-code manipulation, I’ve been experimenting with different Grasshopper plugins. After spending some time working with them, I’m starting to understand the logic behind them, but writing a complete script from scratch still feels quite difficult to me.

I’m also testing some of the scripts shared through Lasso Design’s Patreon. And I know that Claywoven has also been publishing some really interesting videos and experiments, even though they’re mainly working with Blender rather than Rhino :((

I’ll definitely keep testing and experimenting. However, I’d really like to start moving beyond the logic of “simple” vase mode and begin exploring more complex and experimental designs.

I hope this little collection can be useful to some of you, especially if you weren’t already familiar with some of these pages and resources.

I’d also love to hear your thoughts, recommendations, and any other resources you think I should check out 🤘🏻

hey people! we were experimenting with loops a bit, this is one of the first trials. Did you have experience with similar geometries? Have you tried using z movements for looping?

Any round pots I try printing have the walls collapse. Any ideas?

Our team had the task to make a concept presentation, choose an approach and use no money to pay for it. The presentation requires the models of the water bottles to be rendered in 3D.

The F​​​r​​​e​​​e​​​ ​​​S​​​o​​​f​​​t​​​w​​​a​​​r​​​e​​​ ​​​p​​​r​​​o​​​g​​​r​​​a​​​m​​​ ​T​​​e​​​x​​​t​​​-​​​t​​​o​​​-​​​3​​​D​​​​​​ ​​​p​​​r​​​o​​​v​​​i​​​d​​​e​​​s​​​ ​​​t​​​h​​​e​​​ ​​​r​​​i​​​g​​​h​​​t​​​ ​​​f​​​i​​​d​​​e​​​l​​​i​​​t​​​y​​​ for the concept presentations. The ​f​​​r​​​e​​​e​​​ ​​​s​​​u​​​b​​​s​​​c​​​r​​​i​​​p​​​t​​​i​​​o​​​n​​​ ​​​f​​​r​​​o​​​m​​​ ​​​​T​​​r​​​i​​​p​​​o​​​ ​​​A​​​I​​​​​​ enables a l​​​i​​​m​​​i​​​t​​​e​​​d​​​ ​​​n​​​u​​​m​​​b​​​e​​​r​​​ ​​​o​​​f​​​ ​​​e​​​x​​​p​​​o​​​r​​​t​​​s​​​ to be made using ​n​​​o​​​n​​​-​​​c​​​o​​​m​​​m​​​e​​​r​​​c​​​i​​​a​​​l​​​ ​​​p​​​u​​​b​​​l​​​i​​​c​​​ ​​​m​​​o​​​d​​​e​​​l​​​s​​​, however, the rules of the program are not an issue for the internal presentation.

I prepared a prompt for the bottles template: What is the shape language? What is the raw material? What is the distinctive feature? The bottle to be designed has the shape of a curved aluminum and has a matte finish, and the movie star effect on it is modified. I prepared three sentences to explain the text, approximately thirty words long, after which the program provided me with a refined shape.

The generation takes about forty seconds for one variant. I ​g​​​e​​​n​​​e​​​r​​​a​​​t​​​e​​​d​​​ ​​​t​​​w​​​e​​​l​​​v​​​e​​​ ​​​d​​​i​​​f​​​f​​​e​​​r​​​e​​​n​​​t​​​ ​​​v​​​e​​​r​​​s​​​i​​​o​​​n​​​s​​​ during the course of the afternoon, ​e​​​x​​​p​​​o​​​r​​​t​​​e​​​d​​​ ​​​f​​​i​​​v​​​e​​​ ​​​o​​​f​​​ ​​​t​​​h​​​e​​​m​​​ in ​G​​​L​​​B​​​ ​​​f​​​o​​​r​​​m​​​a​​​t​​​, and used the builds in the presentation. The pitch has been already decided in one meeting, the usual process took two meetings.

The only real limitation is the fidelity of the concept, not of the production. There is no need to care about the wall thickness of the cap threads.

Hello guys ! I recently got a DLP printer and I was wondering if any of you guys can give me some pointers when it comes to slurry formation and mixing and maybe exposure times ? Because for ceramic slurries the findings are very diverse. In any case, tips and tricks would help a lot !

Thanks

I’m looking to build a very large format ceramics machine and would love to pick some brains here. Anyone available to DM? Ideally someone with a technical background building machines.

Hello,

(TL;DR: I’m converting a SeeMeCNC Artemis 300 to clay printing and am comparing WASP, Eazao, StoneFlower, and VormVrij extrusion systems for this machine. I'd be grateful for any feedback or recommendations for which extruder might work well for this type of Delta printer. Thanks!)

I've been researching clay 3D printer conversions for the past few months. I was initially looking for an FLSun SR so I could follow this guide by u/Vicckkky. (**thank you!! I wouldn't try this without your resources)

I then acquired a used SeeMeCNC Artemis 300 at a very reasonable price. Its official build volume is 290 × 500 mm. It already has the power supply and electronics housed at the top of the machine and otherwise seems like a good candidate.

I'm now preparing to move forward with the conversion and have been researching extrusion systems. Initially, I was planning to use a WASP clay kit based on the guide above, but wanted to check about other interesting options available now. In particular, I've been looking at the Eazao ceramic kit, the StoneFlower ceramic printing kit, and the Vormvrij Lutum Eco Extruder as alternatives. This open source project by Piotr Wasniowski also looks appealing but maybe more involved than I want to get.

Does anyone have experience with these extruders and delta printers?

This is where my research has led me, but I'm very open to other systems I may have overlooked. I would prefer to avoid a compressor if possible, and am hoping to print with smaller nozzles.

Thanks as well to everyone who has contributed to this subreddit. I've been reading through old posts for the past few months, and they've been extremely helpful in getting me excited to try this.

They appear to be the best option for a lower budget. I am seeing a couple posts about them being questionable? I think its from people not getting the clay consistency right.

What would be the best option for a lower budget? Cheapest I'm seeing is the tronxy moore 1.