2008 Mitsu Evo X GSR - Rusty Connecticut

Need some advice on this seized O2 Sensor, I've been hitting it with PB blaster once daily for 3 days. I ledged wood in between the chassis and exhaust pipe, since it can freely move up and down a little, to have something to push against. I'm using a 2 ft torque wrench then a low profile piston lift to crank the wrench. This thing just won't budge.. Should I get an induction heater, impact wrench?

BTW the hairy thing is something stuck on the wood

Hi, I am trying to see if I can get my mates car to work. It is not firing at all on the back two cylinders, I unplug the leads while the engine is running and it makes no difference to the engine note, either at idle or under acceleration. I have checked the float bowl and fuel needles and they both have fuel. I have checked the spark by testing one of the spark plugs against the block while it is running, spark seems strong. I put my hand over the spark plug hole and there is some compression, but it does not smell of fuel when I take it away again. Spark plug was a little wet when I removed it. I am thinking it might be the leads connected the wrong way around, or a blown head gasket?

Hi r/mechanic!

Has anyone experienced this issue with an IS or any other Lexus/Toyoya from a similar generation?

I’m getting fault code C146C (Open Circuit in ABS Motor Relay Circuit) on my 2015 IS350. 2GR-FSE RWD Non F Sport.

I’ve already gone through the diagnostic procedures outlined in the Lexus repair manual, including the necessary wiring checks, and was able to consistently reproduce the issue.

Here’s what I’ve observed:
1. ABS motor relay active test: Passed. The motor activates normally when manually triggered.
2. Cold startup: The fault code returns, even before the vehicle starts moving.
3. After warming up: Clearing the code works, and the fault doesn’t return even after driving.
4. Next cold startup: The issue returns once the vehicle has cooled down completely. Cold startup doesnt neccessarily mean morning cold, but leaving the car off for 30 mins to 1 hr will cause the fault code to reappear.

Based on the results of the diagnostic procedure, the repair manual recommends replacing the entire ABS actuator assembly.

However, before going down that expensive route, I’d like to know if anyone has encountered the same issue and managed to resolve it without replacing the entire assembly.

I’m particularly curious whether anyone has experienced a similar temperature-dependent failure and found an alternative fix.

Would appreciate any insights or experiences. Thanks!

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Hi everyone,

I have a 2004 VW Passat B5.5 2.8 V6 30V AMX (193 hp) with a Landi Renzo LPG system.

The car mostly sits unused and is only started approximately once every 3–4 weeks.

My Launch diagnostic tool shows the following fault codes: P0300, P0301 and P1250.

The car currently has:

* New Magneti Marelli ignition leads

* A Kamoka or Delphi ignition coil (I'm not completely sure which brand)

* A new camshaft position sensor, replaced because Launch indicated a fault with the old one

* Bosch single-electrode spark plugs, either 0 242 240 593 or 0 242 235 748 (one of these two part numbers is currently installed)

Initially, the engine ran terribly on a cold start, with fluctuating RPM and very rough running. On the third start, after revving it quite hard for about two minutes, it suddenly started running much better and idled smoothly.

Now it idles steadily at around 900 RPM, even when cold, but every now and then I can still hear an occasional misfire from one cylinder. **The misfire seems to happen at idle or lower RPM; at higher RPM, the engine runs smoothly and I don't notice any misfires.** The car otherwise pulls extremely hard and doesn't feel weak at all.

**The LPG issue also occurs when the engine is fully warmed up.** When running on LPG, the engine will not rev past approximately 3,000 RPM. At that point, it sounds almost like a two-step rev limiter, repeatedly cutting out.

The intermittent misfire has occurred on both petrol and LPG, but the 3,000 RPM limitation only happens on LPG.

The car has no catalytic converters and no rear mufflers; it only has a middle resonator.

Would four-electrode spark plugs be a better choice for this engine, especially with LPG? Could the occasional misfire be caused by burnt valves, or would burnt valves usually cause more noticeable power loss and consistently rough running? Given how well the car pulls and the fact that there are no noticeable misfires at higher RPM, I'm wondering whether a serious mechanical problem is likely.

Has anyone experienced similar symptoms with the AMX 2.8 V6 or a Landi Renzo LPG system? What would you check next?

Thanks in advance!

As the title says. I own Saab 9-3 1.8t 2002 (it's gen II) manual trans, and it has strange and big issue.

Main symptoms: missfires, lots of unburnt fuel from exhaust.

Now about how it gets more complicated - alongside to the main symptoms, there is clicking noise from ECU, when engine is turned off, and hissing sound from around vacuum pump/injectors when it's running and unstable. OBD II tool shows no codes except from missfire, broken lambda probe behind the cat (I'll fix it eventually) and too high voltage. I checked, the voltage is too high by 0.07, so it's marginal. The most important thing - no code hinting what could it be. Next thing - it all is stabilizing at higher rpm's, from around 2500 and higher it's as if nothing was wrong.

Edit: some more symptoms - on low rpm car sometimes chokes and turns off; throttle lag happens sometimes

Also, the fuel level sensor is broken, but this broke long time ago, idk if it's related, honestly doubting it, but who knows.

The stuff I did to the car not that long time ago - new vacuum pump seals, new power steering seals, new battery, new spark plugs, new engine and balance timings, new water pump, regenerated clutch, cleaned MAF sensor, regenerated turbo, cleaned intake manifold, installed ECU protection spacer, new coolant reservoir and I think that's all the stuff that happened under the hood. Timings, clutch, turbo and water pump were done by the shop.

Now, I have a few possible ideas, but I still feel the need to hear what others think.

It could be ECU, but afaik there should be some obd code indicating it most of the time - in my case there is no such thing, that's why I think it might not be ECU. Not for sure, but it is just my intuition.

As for other possible culprits, I figured it could be - vacuum leak, faulty injectors, faulty fuel pump, faulty MAF sensor.

Now, I'm open for your opinions and ideas, help me save my baby 🥺

I have a 2001 dodge ram 5.9l magnum with the 46re. When I drive my truck at highway speeds for 20-30 minutes what will happen is my o/d off light forces itself on and you can’t turn it off, and then after 10-15 more minutes my trans temp light turns on. I had a p1740 code and I cleared it after I cleaned the solenoid and sensors on the transmission with contact cleaner so I thought i fixed the issue but apparently I didn’t. So I gotta new tps sensor since my dad has a Dakota and recommended that since he had issues with his and I replaced it and it runs better, but it’s still doing the same thing. When I was cleaning out the 8 pin circle connector to the transmission, I believe it’s the overdrive/tcc lockup solenoid I noticed pink wash out when I sprayed it down so I think the atf seeped its way into the pin connector housing. That’s my assumption, but has anyone else ever have this issue? My trans fluid is at the correct level and it’s newer and it’s not burning up either. I do know that the o/d coming on is basically the transmission keeping itself from being destroyed from what I read and it sounds about right with my trans overheating shortly after.

Hey yall, new BC’s inbound, however, how cooked are these currently? Really hesitating to drive at all.

Bought a 99 Toyota crown athlete V-1JZ GTE-a few weeks ago, and it was smooth sailing. Swapped out the rims and tires just fine, went to mile high stadium for a car show, and on my way back I thought I had a flat.

Brought it to le shwabs, they said no, removed the tires, said structurally everything is drivable but needs to be replaced.

Two weeks go by, squeaking continues. Two days ago, I get in to go to work and it’s gone from squeaking to metallic rubbing.

My question is, how cooked are these current coils?

I was driving and hit a hole and after that this strange noise started happening whenever go over bumpy roads. It sounds exactly like the noise i made in the video at around the same pace and I am almost positive its being caused by the thing I am pressing. Please help quick its my dads car and i got my license three days ago and he loves his cars more than his own life. If he finds out he will blame it on me and he is probably going to revoke my driving privileges. I don’t know shit about cars so explain it to me like im a toddler please. Thank you!

Hello, I was at idle parked when my cars rpms suddenly dropped down to 400 then it died. When I tried the to start the car again it’s like it wouldn’t catch and it kept dying. My accelerator pedal also felt mushy. What could be the issue? Vacuum leak? Air flow sensor?

Got a misfire on my truck after changing plug and boots, cleaning maf map and iat sensors, and throttle body. Need a budget friendly scanner to show live data with cylinder misfires. User friendly plus but understand if that and budget friendly can’t go together.

Hello, while lifting my car, I noticed a few parts that look like they might be damaged or out of place. Could you help me identify these parts, explain what they do, and let me know how important they are? I want to understand what needs to be replaced and prioritize the repairs. Thank you!

My car is a 2015 Infiniti Q40

Recently noticed this sound, wasn't paying attention so not sure how long it's been like this. Only 1k miles since oil change, oil looks good and is at correct level (maybe a hair low)

Is this just how these sound? Bought the car recently so idk, seems a little loud to me.

I have a 2012 Mazda 3 2L, and recently my steering wheel started shaking while driving. It also feels tighter than normal, and the wheel will actually move side to side on its own, almost like it’s trying to steer the car for me.
I took it to O’Reilly’s, and they mentioned it could be an issue with my EHS (electro-hydraulic steering system).
I’ve also noticed that my car makes a noise whenever I turn the steering wheel in either direction. I’m not sure if that’s related to the shaking or if it’s a separate issue.
A few days ago, my door-open warning light randomly came on. I checked every door, and they were all completely shut, but the warning stayed on. Eventually, it started flickering on and off before finally going away. Again, I have no idea if this could be connected, but I figured I’d mention it.
My car already has quite a few other issues, so I’m honestly at a point where I don’t know if it’s worth putting more money into repairs. I’m trying to figure out what could be causing this before spending money on another repair that might not even fix the problem.
Has anyone experienced something similar or have any idea what could be going on? Could all of these issues be connected, or am I dealing with multiple separate problems?
I’ve attached a video showing what the steering wheel is doing. Any advice would be appreciated!

How much of this can I do myself realistically?

I went in to get a recall done on my truck and they did a full diagnostic after and gave me this. just not wanting to dish out almost 7k for somethings I can do myself

It is a 6.7L Cummins

Help! Getting different info from two different mechanics

Car is a 2017 Ford Escape 1.5L FWD

A year and a half ago the transmission went and I paid to have it replaced at a transmission shop (should’ve scrapped it in hindsight). When I got my oil changed by my regular mechanic recently I asked them to do an overall inspection. They said there was a leak coming from where the axle meets the transmission because the axle was the wrong size for my car and that it should be flush with the seal. And that the transmission would fail again if not fixed from leaking fluid. I took it back to the transmission shop since it’s under warranty and they said that there is no leak and that it is the correct axle for my car and that the seal further in is flush with the axle.

Who is right!

I've never had an issue when changing brakes where the piston is completely stuck. Tried a C clamp and it's not moving at all. Tried to press the brake once and see if it would free the piston. It did not. Any help would be appreciated.

Edit: it is the front brakes. It's been put into maintenance mode. Not sure if it's needed for front.

I recently changed the swirl flaps on my volvo v70 d5 2005

When removing the fuel pipes from the injectors the second one was particularly stiff and the adapter bolt slightly rotated (I stupidly didn't stabilise when removing the cap), it eventually came off

When I've put everything back, the second injector is slightly leaking fuel, at the bottom point where the adapter meets the injector - see pictures

Im not sure whether I need to:

\- tighten the adapter more into the injector to tighten the seal back to where it was (although im worried about over doing it),

\-replace the washer that sits between the adapter and the injector its a 10mm external ringwith a slightly raised lip, 5mm internal - although I cant seem to find where id buy one from?

\-or ive damaged the thread of the adapter or where it screws into the injector and I just need to take the plunge and buy a new injector

Really keen for any advice

Need some help; I bought a 2020 Toyota Yaris from Stevenson Toyota, in April 1921, it had 400 miles. It is common for me to go to the eight days without driving my car. I replaced the battery three months ago, the terminals, etc. Last week I came out after three days of my car sitting and it would not start. No response whatsoever from the engine, which requires the brake to be pressed to start. The only activity was the key icon and the door open icon on the dash. Tried two different battery, pack, starters, and two different volt meters to test the battery, including the cold, crank amps. No go. Towed it into Toyota, and they quoted me $435 to diagnose the problem – two hours of diagnostic labor. The next day, the car was in the shop, but sat for three or four days until the appropriate tech got back. Once he was there, they performed a diagnostic and said that there was a missing fuse, and were confused about how it could go missing. I said it was the fuze that served for the brake pedal to light up the tail lights, which relay a message back to the ignition so that it could start. Despite the problem happening for multiple tries, and multiple delay delays before Toyota popped open the ignition panel, they said this was the fix, and replaced that fuse.

When I picked up the car, I was told the battery was dead, and they had to jumpstart it to bring it around. The technician tried to spin a story about how common it is for batteries to drain and go dead. If left sitting for as little as three days, which I knew was BS. I’ve done about that for years, my family and I’ve had many Toyotas, and I’ve literally never heard of that. Unless the battery has a parasitic drain of some sort, that would never happen. And again, battery was tested.

I drove the Toyota home from the dealership, made sure the battery was charged for 25 minutes before turning off the car. Three days later, I went to start the car again, and it’s the same problem. Between the battery drain story, Toyota not knowing my battery was dead until I arrived to pick it up, and the $219 diagnostic/$130 tow bill, I do not have confidence in Stevenson Toyota to properly fix this.

Does anyone know if this could be an ignition or electrical problem? My key fob also does not respond to lock/unlock the doors, though the two dash lights tell me there is connection and power from the battery. Any input would help, including whether or not, I should go somewhere else to have the problem diagnosed.

Thanks to all!

Nissan s14 Sr20det vtc

I noticed some scoring on one of my camshaft bearing journals as well as the camshaft and on the cam cap

On the journal it only goes as far as the blue drawing but I can ever so slightly catch it with my fingernail and it doesn’t feel necessarily smooth when putting my finger over it

Can I just send it or do I need to do something with my head

2000 Volkswagen Passat
32(f) Philadelphia

For context about a year ago I ended my LTR of 5 yrs…I thought we were gonna go the Full Monty w/ marriage and kids. Alas, we couldn’t agree and just weren’t on the same page about the future. Which happens, so here we are. Anyway-my ex was the one who took care of car related things, from inspections to oil changes to radiator tube-swaps (technical term im sure). I barely know how to fill a tire with air, as embarrassing as that sounds. And that’s not an exaggeration-I rarely remember where the lever is to pop my hood. Listen! I’m a woman of many talents and cars are just NOT on the list. I know my strengths and I know my weaknesses.

Which kind of leads to how I got myself into this predicament. I got a free, somewhat run down but still great car. It was a liberation. But I didn’t know how to service it, and I knew she would need work to get on the road. By some miracle, I found a great mechanic. And I mean really great mechanic. he’s reasonably available, not pedantic or condescending (despite my obvious lack of knowledge), and does great work for reasonable prices. In the first month I had the car, he did some work on the brakes and rotors and -some other wheel socket thing I can’t remember-and that came out to just under $900. And honestly, that’s all I’ve really spent at his shop besides the occasional oil change, my first of which was free (I mean it was my birthday). Hell, he gave me a $50 oil change last month…which is a practically unheard of price for my car. I’ve had this vehicle for a full year now. She’s going strong for a woman in the last stage of her life 😭💟 TLDR: this man took care of something that I could not do myself and did it with class. RARE these days.

Speaking of my hot mechanic, I think he’s in his 40s or 50s and rides a motorcycle; medium build with a big beard and a shiny bald head. Great east coast accent. There was a certain vibe from the beginning, to get to the heat of the matter. It’s really slight -I honestly worry that im imagining it. But then by the end of our interactions I’mwet again. He kind of avoids eye contact and looking at me in general…until he doesn’t.. and then the eye contact is brief but intense. He’s concise about the car work and price but then makes an effort to ask a personal question every time I see him, AND he mentioned to me the words “ex” and “wife” once maybe the 3rd or so time I was in his shop. For my part -I take care of myself and put effort unto my presentation. Keeping it cute and casual but I mean- he can probably smell the pheromones rolling off me, even though I don’t do anything overt. The man is at his job for christsake {and you should NEVER corner or come onto someone at their job . that’s creepy and not cool.]
It’s only gone as far as bringing him sporadic treats…a quarter watermelon in the summer and a couple of cookies from my parent’s bakery’s last month. And maybe a tiny bottle of maple syrup when I went to Canada last January.

So I suppose I know that the answer is no, that I should NOT make a move.
God.
But I wish he would.

Replacing the ball joint and I noticed the bearing/seal looked rough. Is this normal?

Where’s the guys who say snap on sucks?

My car is nissan sunny 2010 n16 engine: qg16de automatic transmission

Rpm is steady and smooth on N and P.

But on R and D (especially when load is put) engine shakes alot and rpm drops below 500 and sometimes i get check engine light and put on limp mode

Services I’ve done so far
\-new spark plugs
\-new air filter
\-new camshaft positions sensor (for another reason)
\-clean throttle body valve
\-clean MAF sensor
\-idle relearn done

Im going to find someone with and obd scanner soon to see if there r any codes.

The mechanics here either “fix” (like just to shut the problem for a while and call it a fix) or are super expensive and im a guy that likes learning and doing stuff with his hand

Other notes idk if relevant:
\-exhaust smells thick usually
\-very poor gas economy
\-in the morning the first time i try starting the car it doesnt start. Second time starts it

I apologise if my video taking isnt so good. And thank you for your time!

Hi all,

I own a 2013 Toyota Corolla S, manual transmission, 1.8-liter, 4-cylinder gasoline engine. It has about 130,000 miles on it.

Since the beginning of the summer, there's been a grinding noise that's just been driving me nuts and I was wondering if you could help me diagnose it.

It used to happen when I would drive the car after it had been idle for a few hours, I'd hear this grinding noise seemingly coming from the front left part of the car when I'd reverse and also when I took my foot off the gas pedal when going forward. After driving around for a little, it would eventually go away (usually after I parked the car for a moment and started driving again). However, when left idle for a few hours, it would come back. Three months later and it's still there, though now it seems like I hear the grinding when hit the gas but not when I let off of it (or it seems to vary more, hard to pin down). Still very bad when I reverse the car.

The car is driving fine otherwise, no issues with the breaks or steering or anything. Does anyone know what could be causing this from what I've mentioned? Thanks in advance.