It sank about 3 or 4 inches after my neighbor installed a new sidewalk.

https://imgur.com/a/ssKfUqa

We bought our house a couple years ago. Somehow my wife and I missed that the hallway light is off center. Like. Way off center. I’m not looking into getting up there and moving it or paying someone to move it, just looking for a way to maybe take the attention away from the ceiling.

Hey, so I have an RV parked out at one of my relatives houses and my laptop, like barely can detect the Wi-Fi and certainly can’t use it very effectively. I was wondering what the best method to use/extend the signal. Keeping in mind that between the house and the RV is all exposed to the elements. Should I find a way to extend it with a power cable that leaves the house and it’s midway between the house and the RV to ? Should I use an Internet cable that goes most of the way to the RV?

Does anyone know if there is a product that can be used to help with traction on composite decking? Ideally some kind of sealer with grit/grip, like they make for patios/wood decking. I almost broke my neck with the first frost, and I can only imagine it will be treacherous this winter.

.

Anderson windows is on crack if they think they are going to pitch a $25,000 dollar front door On 3m dollar home i don’t think so. $2,500 to 5k tops. Maybe if the door turned into auto bot .

Hi folks, I have two sensors and three button lights on my stairs. The bottom sensor works perfectly and the lights stay on for 30 seconds which is fine. The top sensor only turns the lights on for one second. It’s like a flash and then they turn off. The problematic sensor currently wired into my ceiling.
Is this an issue with the sensor or does it need to be adjusted? And if it needs to be adjusted, how can I do that?
Thanks

Can I replace a range hood without replacing the surrounding cabinetry, or would the cabinet need to be removed and reinstalled? What type of professional can make this happen for me? And what hood do people like? I want one that works. Also never again on white cabinets

Hi, I’m not sure if this is the right sub for this, but I’ve finally managed to convince my grandmother to let me install an emergency pull cord in her bathroom. the actual installation I can do but I'm not sure what to get or look for.

I’m looking for a Wi-Fi-enabled system, or something similar, that can send an alert or message to a few pre-selected phone numbers when activated. Ideally, I’d like something that allows me to add more alarms in the future if needed.

Has anyone got any recommendations or experience with systems like this? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Hello, so I recently drilled 6 holes in my wall to put up shelves. I wiped the dust (at least I thought I got all of it). However, I found out my house is built in the 1950s, and has lead paint. Then, I found out that I had not completely gotten all the dust, and I have a fan in that room coincidentally near the dust (just my luck). Should I be concerned? It is also my bedroom where I sleep. I am a very anxious person, so I asked google’s AI bot and it is not making me feel better.

Hi all, looking for advice if i should scrape up the old flooring, just the Self-leveling compound, or even more extreme is would be removing the sub floor. Pictures and relevant details listed below.

• Comfortable installing new sub floor if needed/if its easier than cleaning up old laminate and or the leveling compound
• house built in the 60s, likely has asbestos, have all the appropriate hazmat gear from when i scraped the popcorn ceiling
• aprox 600 square feet of flooring will have LVP installed, about half has exposed sub floor, about half has varying layers of old vinyl laminate with some leveling compound at transitions.
• current sub floor is plywood with another layer of OSB on top. All is dry, although i do need to screw down some spots where nails are popping up
• sub floor appears dry, without warping where i can see it
• joists are 16" on center
• laminate does not have any bubbling anywhere, some edges can be peeled up relatively easily but mostly I would need a tool to peel it up
• new to the sub, uncertain if posting photos is aloud so i have a link below
• folder of photos

I know the answer is yes. Any tips for doing this? We don't have a sink or drain in our basement. I'm a little nervous about burning the electrical elements and having a $5,000 replacement bill.

Edit: water heater was installed new fall 2024.

Hi! I have an Ashely furniture table and 3 young kiddos. Lots of sticky food and spills and the varnish/paint is cracking and peeling in some areas. I'm thinking of sanding it and re-painting.

I've tried re-painting IKEA shelves before and despite sanding it first, the paint peeled right off. I'd like to avoid that again. Any advice? Or is it not even worth it? The table was about $600 new but I got it off marketplace. I don't mind spending $50 in paint/supplies and making it look nice again, but not if it's just going to peel right back off.

https://imgur.com/a/sdluKcE

I bumped into this wall (pic 1) right after putting the second coat of paint on, so I need to paint it again. Then I made the two small indents in pic 2 while taking a sconce down. I'd like to fix them as they're next to the mirror so they'll bother me. I also noticed some other uneven spots on the wall (pics 3-5).

This is my first home, I'm babystepping the DIY stuff, and had someone else put up the drywall. So I have two ignorant questions:

1. Should I use spackle or joint compound for the two small holes?

2. Would the imperfections in the other pictures, namely the uneven drywall seam, be hard to fix? I think I would need to float it with joint compound, skim, sand, prime, and paint, right? Is that something you can get right on your first try? I don't want to risk making it look worse.

I am considering attempting to finish my basement myself. I am not terribly handy, but have been doing a lot of research.

I have 7.5 ft walls and an exposed ceiling. I planned to spray the ceiling. In terms of walls I wanted to go with furring strips and then paneling. From what I’ve read, some people say place furring strips every 24 inches. Others have said to do that but also put furring strips horizontally at the top and bottom of the walls. What would the people who have done this or know more about finishing basements suggest?

Also, currently I have a rigid carport barrier on the top half of my basement walls. Would it be recommended to put the rigid vapor barrier on the bottom half of the walls as well?

Any and all suggestions are much appreciated. Thanks in advance!

Hi, the contractor put simple drywall to the kitchen wall right back to the sink

I requested impegrated but its already done

I am planning to use special bathroom paint to avoid mold

Can it cause any issues later?

Hi, the contractor put simple drywall to the kitchen wall, right back to the sink etc.

I requested impegrated, but its already done

Can itt cause anya issues later?

I am planning to use special bathroom paint to avoid mold

I am afraid itt can be an issue later

Do you have any suggestions?

This has been asked a lot before but I am just completely stuck on what to do with our siding. We have a 35 year old house in a nice northeast neighborhood. We are going to redo our roof and our siding and trim are also starting to show their age with rot and decay. We currently have pine clapboards and trim.

We’ve gotten a bunch of quotes for different siding. Hardie is very expensive and requires perfect installation but definitely looks the best. I’d pick Everlast in a second but the budget is ludicrous. I’m not a huge fan of the LP Smartside product (basically as expensive as Hardie and requires more maintenance). Repairing the current wood siding would be as much as Hardie and then require all the maintenance over the years that I don’t want.

Then there is Vinyl - we’ve looked at the certainteed monogram siding with cedar impressions accents. Seems like a really good product and the price is right. Zero maintenance. We would replace any rotted trim and aluminum wrap it all. We are leaning this way, but I would say 95% of homes in our neighborhood and town are wood, followed by 3-4% Hardie and then maybe a very few have vinyl. I’m worried about it looking cheap (and maybe a little worried about neighborly judgment and resale issues even though this is probably our 20+ year house).

Just looking for a voice of reason as I battle analysis paralysis.

TLDR - is Vinyl in a non-vinyl neighborhood a big mistake?

Thanks!

Hey all; I have never purchased custom blinds before. We had Budget Blinds (Canada) do an estimate for our patio door with vertical vinyl blinds to replace the 45 year old fabric blinds that came with the house and the quote was $820 with taxes and installation for Signature Series. I have no clue and have found nothing on SS blinds, even AI could not find out anything about them. This is my quote details. I have no problem paying for quality and I just finished $26K in renos in my house. Any advice or experience with these blinds would be appreciated.

VERTICAL BLINDS

Signature Series; Product: SIGNATURE SERIES VERTICAL, Headrail Type: G­71, Type: BLIND WITH

VALANCE, Mount: INSIDE MOUNT, Bracket Mount: CEILING MOUNT, Color: SATELLITE REVERE

(93895), Louver Style: FREE HANG, Rotation Type: WAND DRAW, Control Position: RIGHT CONTROL,

Stack: RIGHT STACK ONE WAY, Valance Type: SQUARE CORNER VALANCE, Valance Dust Cover:

VALANCE DUST COVER, Special Valance Width: 0, Special Return Length: 0,

(I posted same post on WindowTreatments reddit but it only gets about 200 visits a week).

How do I fix this water damage in the kitchen?
I have a big family and we’ve really been rough on our home.
I’m interested in cheap easy fixes and more expensive professional fixes. Thanks for the advice!

https://imgur.com/gallery/kitchen-damage-0D8RXE9

For a better image. Kitchen stove directly under a very old and tattered circular vent with a fan. Pumps straight into the attic into a tight corner.

I have a new metal roof and not a lot of income to fix the issue before I go up and seal the attic for better efficiency.

I see recirculating hoods, but they don't deal with steam.

What can I do to remedy this? Is cutting a hole in the roof the only option? I'm only a beginner at this stuff.

i am doing some DIY and im not an electrician by any means. i am helping install some 4" RGB recessed lights outside of a house and for the most part it isnt an issue. when i get to the A frame, i need ideas on how to wire and hide it. the ideas are, to have the wires on the outside along the edge of the eve inside some conduit or to get lights that have a single junction box with longer connectors and get some extensions if needed. which one would be more cost effective or what are other ideas of what i can do?

the house doesnt have access to the attic for these a frames and im not too sure if hiding the junction box inside the hole i cut for the light is an option. if i wire it on the outside, they would need to spend a lot more money on materials and id like to avoid it if possible. but the same applies for the single junction box with connectors to the lights.

Are there any ways i can potentially run the wires through the inside without having to cut through all of the studs in the way? i havent cut holes to see what the inside looks like but id like to have a plan in case i cant wire through the inside which is what its looking like.

again, im not a licensed electrician but id still like to make it up to code.

any ideas are appreciated.

I bought a brand-new construction home in Florida in 2023, and I've been dealing with LVP flooring issues for over a year now.

The planks are cracking, buckling, and separating throughout the house. Some areas even flex and sink when you walk on them.

After sending the builder a pretty stern message, he finally sent a flooring contractor out. That contractor said the concrete slab had dips and wasn't properly prepped before the LVP was installed. He recommended a complete demo and reinstallation to do it properly, explaining that repairing so many individual areas would actually take longer.

The builder wanted a second opinion, so he came back with another flooring contractor and someone I assume was his assistant.

During that visit, I overheard the assistant suggesting they could possibly caulk along the edges near the counters and glue parts of the flooring down. They weren't necessarily hiding the conversation, but they were discussing these options amongst themselves without actually explaining a repair plan to me.

Now they're saying the flooring contractor is about 30 days out. When I asked what the plan was, the builder's office said they assumed it had been discussed during the inspection and that the contractor could explain it when he comes back to do the work.

My concern is that they're trying to avoid the expense of removing the flooring and correcting the uneven concrete underneath.

There's one spot in the kitchen where you can literally feel yourself stepping down into a dip in the floor. In the living room, there are areas that seem to slope gradually, but it's so subtle that it's almost impossible to tell whether the concrete is actually uneven just by looking at it or walking across it.

So what do I do? How can I actually prove that the concrete wasn't properly prepped or isn't flat enough for the flooring? Is there a specific type of inspection or test I should have done? Would an independent flooring inspector be able to document this without ripping up the entire floor?

I understand that a concrete slab doesn't necessarily have to be perfectly level, but shouldn't it meet certain flatness requirements for LVP installation?

I'm worried the builder is going to patch the visible damage without addressing the underlying cause, and I'll be right back in this situation a year from now.

For anyone experienced with flooring installation or new construction defects, how would you handle this? What kind of evidence would I need to show that improper floor preparation is causing these issues?

I just want the floors fixed correctly, not temporarily patched.

I am unsure if the gaps between the horizontal vinyl siding and the windows and outlet need to be closed or filled. I know vinyl siding needs to breathe/expand a little but these seem excessive. Thoughts?

https://imgur.com/a/PXGnNjk