Overnight print, 14 hours, could it be the falling temperature of the room?

Prusa Mk3 i3
0,4 nozzle
Filament unknown 😬

Need advice on how to fix this issue, this model doesn’t want to keep the layers connected and it keeps messing up, especially on one side
Flashforge Creator Pro
Flash maker
Black Jaycar home brand pla
Nozzle temp 220c bed temp 55c
Speed unsure
No retractions

How do i improve the quality of the overhang sections? i tried to slow down, fan to 100%, lower nozzle temp as well but still not looking good, any suggestion is greatly appreciate,
My settings layer height 0.2, Bambu studio slicer

Need help identifying the type of malfunction/what parts need attention.

Print on the left is what it’s supposed to look like. Printed on Printer 1.

Print in the middle and on the right is printed on the same printer. Will call this one printer 2.

Both printers are BBL P1S

Printer 2 used to print this model with no issues, then randomly started acting up. It can still print different models with no issue, it only has issues printing these Ammo holder inserts.

I’ve replaced the nozzle, extruder assembly, and the build plate with no change.

I'm printing PETG at 240°C nozzle temperature and 70°C bed temperature, using a 0.4 mm nozzle and PrusaSlicer.

My printer is an Ender 3 Pro with a replacement extruder, a BLTouch, and a modified print head using the Satsana design. I bought the printer second-hand, so I didn't install these modifications myself.

The bed is the standard perforated glass build plate.

The firmware is Marlin, and it supports creating a bed mesh. The BLTouch works as expected.

It's been three months since I bought the printer, and I still can't get it to print the way I want. The print quality is very inconsistent, and sometimes it works while other times it doesn't.

I have this 3 faded towards the buildplate and there is a 0.6mm distance between the bottom layer and the red star shape. I can not change this to be on the top as on the top I have another portruding number with a star pattern as well.

• P2S
• Bambu Studio
• PLA Basic Red & White, PLA Matte Dark Green (Bambu)
• 220 / 55

What is the best approach here to make the red part not sag and print well? I wold prefer not to make the whole layer red or use support.

Is this just me having to configure my bridge settings?

Hi friends! I finally got my flow ratios dialled in (I think lol) but now I have a question!

Do I change all flow ratio categories to the new value? Top, bottom, internal and external bridges are all set to the new value. Do I click “set other flow ratios” and change every other flow value as well? If my initial flow was .98 but all the others start at 1, should I increase it to my new value plus .02?

I tried googling first and it just kept saying flow ratios should be different for each filament type which is not what I’m asking🫩

Pic of settings for reference; AD5X, orca/flash studio, printing inland pla at 220/60

Hi! I’m relatively new to 3D printing, and I’ve been struggling with tall, narrow prints, even when they’re fairly small.
They keep coming unstuck from the bed somewhere around the middle or towards the end of the print.

I’m using a Bambu Lab H2S with Sunlu PLA and Bambu Studio as my slicer. My nozzle temperature is 220°C and my bed temperature is 65°C as of the last attempt.

So far, I’ve tried:
-Both textured and smooth build plates
-Cleaning the plates with blue Dawn dish soap
-Gradually increasing the bed temperature, up to 75°C
-Using ridiculously huge brims
-Enabling Z-hop in case the nozzle is knocking into the print
Nothing seems to help.

Here’s a video of the last failed attempt. It got to the higher point than the rest.
https://youtu.be/PctCjGa0wIg

I know printing these parts on their side would probably be easier, but I’m really trying to avoid supports if possible.
I tried different kinds of shapes, but the second it’s taller than it is wide, it fails.

Is there anything else I can tweak to get these prints to stay on the bed, or is this just impossible to print vertically?

I’ve tried larger line width, slowing print down, upping infill overlap. Any ideas I’m grateful for. Also tried new nozzle, filament is dry, and changed temp up and down seemingly made no difference.

K2 plus, Creality slicer, petg-cf, 270/265, bed temp 85/80.

Any idea what could cause this? Just on the back.

I just tried my Bambu A1 Mini with generic PETG. The printer was factory reset and fully calibrated before printing.

After the print finished, I noticed several fairly thick strings protruding from different areas of the model. The nozzle temperature remained stable at 255°C throughout the print, which is within the manufacturer's recommended range for this PETG, so I'm not sure what caused the issue.

When researching stringing problems, most examples I found only show very thin wispy strands, typically around bridging sections. What I'm seeing is much thicker and appears in multiple locations. Is this still considered normal stringing, or could there be another cause?

I am getting back into 3d printing and decided to upgrade my Ender 3 V2 with a Microswiss NG extruder and klipper. After following The Ellis Print Tuning guide for Extruder calibration, Pressure Advance, and Extrusion Multiplier, I calculated the Max Volumetric Flow rate (10 mm^3/s) and and used that to let extrapolated that to max print speed (150 mm/s). Upon putting those in Cura, I used the speed settings in the picture attached.

With all of that, I am dealing with serious z layer issues. What is weird is rather than one layer being shifted left or right, they just all seem like different widths (but that could be my eyes messing with me). I noticed that the z screw is not straight (attached video). Could that be the cause or is it something else?

The attached prints were both run with the exact same gcode so they should be exactly the same but they are obviously not.

Print Settings:
Inland PLA @ 220 degrees (60 degrees bed)
Retraction 1 mm
Speed: ~124ish as decided by Prusa slicer

My current settings are 6 top layers, 15% Gyroid infill, .42 surface line width, .95 flow rate, .04 Factor K, top surface speed of 30 mm/s. I have not played with acceleration settings at all so not sure if that would make a difference? I also have it set for a single wall for top surface. Any advice is welcome.

Hi, I am pretty new to 3d printing and got my dads old printer from when he used to use it. Its a Mono-price Maker Select v2. I am using PLA with bed temp at 60 and Nozzle Temp at 205. Recently when I use it the print quality is absolutely horrendous. I has a very hard time coming off the bed when prints or done also. If anyone could let me know any possible solutions it would be greatly appreciated. I'm open to any questions.

Is this a bed leveling issue or something else? First layer print test. Ran automatic bed leveling calibration right before this print.

Hello all. I have a new Bambu Lab X2d using Bambu black matte PLA at .2 layer height. I wanted to start Ironing the top of my prints and did a calibration plate testing the speed and flow required for a nice top surface. After printing the plate I found the values that looked the best being 90mm/s speed at 30% flow. So I printed a test cube and the top looked nothing like the plate.

I didnt change any other settings between the calibration test and the cube other than the best settings I found from the test. Can anyone point out what I may be doing wrong?

Hi! I’m new to 3D printing and want to print an airless basketball on my Bambu Lab A1 mini. 🏀 What filament gives the best bounce and won’t crack or break easily?!

Printing on Bambu lab A1
Bambu PLA matte filament
10 ms initial layer
200ms outer wall speed

Plate temp 60 C

Nozzle is 210c initial layer 205c other layers (I lowered the temp from 220 after first failure)

Z hop enabled -normal .4mm
Working in bambu studio
Cleaned print bed with hot water and dish soap. Let it dry throughly before printing.

Printed a cosplay dagger in two parts the other day that didn’t have any issues.

I heard it get knocked off the plate but looks like the print was going wrong before that.

It's really strange, sv08 max, creality abs @250/100, volumetric flow is at 15, but speed limited to 80mms. Retraction was at 0.8, pa is at 0.02
I know there's ringing which I will tune out but I'm clearly missing a setting here! Any help appreciated