I forgot to plug the CPU power cables in. Woopsie.

Backstory: So one of my hobbies is 3D printing. I've read that Xbox Kinects can be modified to work with PCs to create 3D scans of real objects (pretty cool, right?). I followed some guides and spliced in power and USB to the Kinect (instead of its original proprietary plug). A few attempts later and I still hadn't gotten the PC to recognize the device.

The fuckup: Tried to wiggle the wires a bit to see if any were loose. Monitor turns off. Pc lights turn off. Fans turn off. Fast forward a day or two and I haven't been able to squeeze any life out of the PC. Strange because I didn't see any obvious shorts in my wiring, and it's not like I was sending 12V power to the USB (power went to the Kinect). Regardless of how it happened, something clearly went wrong.

What do you guys think fried? Power supply? MOBO? maybe just the USB headers/power switch? Talking to a friend to see if he can bring over some spare parts for testing. Anything else you guys recommend I do?

Update AS OF 3:30PM CENTRAL TIME: CURRENT LIST OF TROUBLESHOOTING STEPS TAKEN

-Removed and reinstalled CMOS battery

-reset/jumped CMOS

-plugged into other outlets, same issue

-No breaker, home fuse, or power strip fuse blew (issue is for sure related to the Pc)

-disconnected all but case fans from power supply. Used paper clip to jump power supply. Case fans and power supply fans started up fine.

UPDATE 9:30 CENTRAL

-Jumped mobo power switch (to rule out just headers being fried). No change.

Current standing is: no post, fans, lights, etc on startup

Edit as of Noon 11/24

Still no signs of life. If anyone has a z97 mobo with an lg1150 socket, let me know! Nothing local that I could find. Getting by on a labtop for now, but I really need this desktop for my business.

So I just bought a shiny new 970 EVO PLUS 1T and plugged that bastard in.

Guess what, my PC won't boot. I got an error saying the PC couldn't read my new drive.
Alright, I'll just unplug it and find some way in old windows - NOPE. My old windows install got fucked somehow as well.
Now my PC won't boot at all! By now I worried I had damaged my PC somehow, since M2 is in direct contact with the MB.

Alright, I made a win10 failsafe disk some time ago, so I set it to remove everything and start over. I wish I knew beforehand how long a windows remake takes... Mamma on wheels, 4 hours later it finally finished and booted like it should!... On the old drive..

Alright, at least I had a PC to work with, so I made a win10 install on a USB drive using the microsoft tool. Now I intended to remove the windows installation fom my old drive and make an entirely new one on my new one. - NOPE.

This is where I spent hours researching. I have a z170 board which should support m.2 nvme out of the box. But no matter what, I couldn't get a clean boot at all.

I made a seperate win10 install on an old SSD while having the new m.2 plugged in, and the old drive worked.
What I noticed was that I could apparently boot on my new m.2 drive when selecting my old SSD asthe boot drive. I got the option to choose a win10 install to boot from, and when booting windows this way, I could get the new m.2 drive to work.

To make an already long story a little shorter, to anyone with the same problem:

UNPLUG YOUR OTHER SSD/HDD'S WHEN INSTALLING WINDOWS 10.

I have absolutely no Idea why I had to do it. I tried disabling my other drives, removing the partitions on them, anything. I had to physically remove the sata plugs for it to work.

I noticed, whenever I tried to install win10 on my new drive, It'd for some reason make one of my other drives the boot drive. Unplugging the drives worked as a dream, and everything works now. If anyone else suffers the same issue, I hope this helps!

This sub is flooded with build issues and general tech support problems, which I really like, but OP always disappears and I'm assuming its not because they never have a working PC again but rather they've found a solution and not cared enough to post it.

Please post your solutions. Is there anything we can do to encourage this?

Some of you might have seen my few posts about my PC not turning on.

In short, I only changed some components. I got a slightly smaller case, new GPU for my freesync monitors, RGB fans, and a new PSU. For the most part, it was a case transfer.

For the life of me, I could not figure out why it didn't work. LEDs would flash for just a second, and everything went off. After two days of constructing and deconstructing, browsing forums, testing each part, and just trouble shooting my brains out, I all but gave up. I had narrowed it down to the new case being the culprit, and figured there was a short in the power button. As I took all the parts out and prepared to make a return, I figured I'd test the mother board just in case all this tampering has done something. (I also may or may not have bent some pins and nearly broke the CMOS battery.) It worked fine, so that's all good. I decided to test the fans. I had bought 3 Corsair LL 140mm RGB fans, which comes with a hub and a controller. Tested them and...the system shut off.

"What."

After many combinations of plug ins, it was one bad SATA power cord. Two days of cuts, frustration, and many lost screws, it was because of a bad cable.

Always check everything when you troubleshoot. Even the most ridiculous can happen.

TL;DR Spent 2 days slaving over my non-powered PC because of a bad SATA cord.

Hey everyone,
I’ve had my RTX 5080 setup running perfectly stable since day one (around april), until about a month and a half ago. Since then, I’ve had at most 4 black screen crashes where the GPU fans ramp to 100%. They were very spread out in time, except for the last two days when it happened twice in a row (one each day).

The weird part: I can play for several hours (a lot and very demanding games) without a single issue, but sometimes when I just start the game and play for a few minutes , or even stay in the menu, it crashes with black screen + fans at 100%.

My hardware:

• GPU: NVIDIA RTX 5080 (driver currently 581.15)
• CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 9800X3D
• Motherboard: MSI MPG X670E Carbon WiFi
• RAM: Corsair Vengeance DDR5 64 GB (2×32 GB) 6000 MHz CL30
• PSU: Seasonic Focus GX-850 ATX 3.0, PCIe 5.0 (native 12V-2x6 cable)
• Cooler: Arctic Liquid Freezer II 360
• Case: Corsair 4000D Airflow White
• Storage: Samsung 990 Pro 4 TB SSD
• Display: LG ultragear 27" 2k 144hz - with GSYNC
• Display 2: HP 23cw

What I tested so far:

• FurMark → stable.
• OCCT PSU test (CPU + GPU full load) → stable.
• HWiNFO logs → temps 55–65 °C, GPU power ~170 W, hotspot <65 °C.

I’ve seen people mention possible solutions like switching PCIe 5.0 to 4.0, disabling G-SYNC or lowering refresh rate, or even specific driver versions , but I’m not sure what the real cause is (i didnt try this solutions). Since all my stress tests check out fine, I don’t really think it’s a hardware failure, but I’d like to hear your opinions and hopefully narrow it down.

Thanks for everything!!

Hey everyone,

I've been experiencing FPS drops and stuttering on my PC, and I'm trying to figure out what could be causing the issue. I'm looking for some advice on how to troubleshoot it and improve my gaming performance.

My PC specs:

• Motherboard: ASUS TUF Gaming A520M-PLUS WiFi
• CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 5700X
• GPU: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4060 8GB
• RAM: 32GB

Despite having these specs, I'm experiencing FPS drops and noticeable stuttering while using my PC, especially when gaming. I'm not sure whether the issue is related to my hardware, drivers, Windows settings, temperatures, or something else.

I'd appreciate some help figuring out:

• What could be causing the FPS drops and stuttering with this hardware?
• Are there any BIOS settings, NVIDIA Control Panel settings, or Windows optimizations I should check?
• How can I determine whether the problem is caused by my CPU, GPU, RAM, or something else?
• Are there any recommended troubleshooting steps I should try?

If anyone has a similar PC setup or has experienced this issue, I'd really appreciate your suggestions.

Thanks in advance for your help!

TL;DR: I bought a used MSI RTX 3090 Ti SUPRIM X 24GB. It passed extensive benchmarks on the seller's PC before shipping, including PCIe 4.0 operation and 30-minute OCCT tests. After receiving it, the GPU intermittently refused to display anything, sometimes failed before showing the motherboard logo, and occasionally booted into Windows with Code 43.

I tested RAM configurations, PCIe generations, PSU cables, BIOS versions, different GPUs, and eventually an entirely different computer with two different PSUs.

At one point, it wouldn't initialize even at PCIe Gen3 with minimal RAM. Then it suddenly started working at Gen3 on my friend's PC, subsequently worked at Gen4, and now works at Gen4 in my original PC too.

I'm trying to determine whether this is an intermittent hardware fault, PCIe signal integrity problem, cracked solder joint, or something else before paying for a repair.

This is a long post because I've already done extensive troubleshooting and want to provide actual results rather than just saying "my GPU doesn't work."

1. Original GPU testing on the seller's PC — September 21, 2026

Before receiving the card, I remotely connected to the seller's computer and ran benchmarks and stress tests.

Seller's hardware:

• GPU: MSI GeForce RTX 3090 Ti SUPRIM X 24GB
• CPU: Intel Core i9-12900KS
• Motherboard: Z690 Formula
• RAM: 32GB DDR5
• GPU: GA102-350, Micron GDDR6X
• VBIOS: 94.02.A0.00.0D

GPU-Z showed PCIe 4.0 x16 @ x16 4.0.

3DMark Time Spy

A subsequent run recorded a graphics score of 19,758.

OCCT 3D Adaptive — 30 minutes

• Variable load: 20–100%, increasing in 5% steps every 30 seconds
• Errors: 0
• Maximum GPU temperature: 85.5°C
• Maximum hotspot: 99.2°C
• Maximum VRAM temperature: 80°C
• Maximum GPU power: 468.7W
• Fan speed reached approximately 95%

OCCT VRAM — 30 minutes

• Errors: 0
• Maximum GPU temperature: 68.1°C
• Maximum hotspot: 82.1°C
• Maximum VRAM temperature: 76°C
• Maximum GPU power: 213.65W

No crashes, artifacts, or driver resets were reported during these tests. Available monitoring also showed no recorded PCIe errors.

Important: We verified sustained workload stability, but I don't have evidence that repeated cold boots were tested on the seller's PC.

At this point, everything suggested that the GPU was functioning.

2. My computer — hardware configuration

I received the GPU around October 9.

• GPU: MSI RTX 3090 Ti SUPRIM X 24GB
• CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600
• Motherboard: ASUS PRIME B550M-K
• BIOS: Originally 3302, later updated to 4304
• PSU: Endorfy Supremo FM6 1000W Gold ATX 3.1
• Case: Antec AX1000 ARGB
• GPU mounting: Directly in the motherboard PCIe slot, no riser, with GPU support to prevent sagging

My original memory configuration was 80GB DDR4 using four DIMMs:

• 2×16GB G.Skill 3200
• 1×16GB HyperX 3200
• 1×32GB lower-speed DDR4

I also tested with just the two matching G.Skill sticks at 2133 MT/s to eliminate mixed-memory complications.

3. Initial symptoms

The problem is primarily during initialization, not during heavy GPU workloads.

When the problem occurs:

1. I press the power button.
2. The GPU RGB lights turn on and fans spin.
3. The monitor briefly detects a signal.
4. The screen stays completely black.
5. A few seconds later the monitor reports No Signal.
6. Disconnecting and reconnecting HDMI or DisplayPort briefly triggers signal detection again, but still no picture.

Usually, I don't even see the ASUS motherboard logo.

Occasionally, however, the card boots successfully.

When it does, Windows sometimes initially appears in a very low resolution, with everything looking unusually large.

After approximately 30–60 seconds, both monitors briefly go black and the resolution returns to normal.

On some failed initializations, Windows boots but Device Manager reports:

Windows has stopped this device because it has reported problems. (Code 43)

Running nvidia-smi in this state produces:

NVIDIA-SMI has failed because it couldn't communicate with the NVIDIA driver.

Other times the card works completely normally.

4. Troubleshooting on my ASUS B550M-K

Testing other GPUs

I installed two other GPUs to check the motherboard:

• RTX 2060 Super: worked normally
• INNO3D RTX 3060 Ti: worked normally, including PCIe Gen4

Both provided display output when the 3090 Ti failed.

PCIe generation testing

Initially, the motherboard was using PCIe Auto.

I manually forced PCIe Gen3, and the 3090 Ti finally started working.

It successfully passed:

• Windows restarts
• Normal shutdown/startup cycles
• Full cold boots after switching the PSU off and disconnecting power

For a while I thought the issue was solved.

But the problem eventually returned, and the card subsequently failed to initialize even at Gen3.

Power delivery testing

I tried:

• The Endorfy PSU's native 16-pin GPU cable
• MSI's original 3×8-pin-to-16-pin adapter
• Reseating the GPU
• Reseating the GPU power connector
• Both HDMI and DisplayPort

No visible burning or melting was found on the power connector.

The results were inconsistent. Sometimes reseating the GPU appeared to help; other times it made no difference.

Dual VBIOS testing

The SUPRIM X has a physical GAMING / SILENT BIOS switch.

I tested both positions with the system powered off before switching.

Both modes experienced No Signal failures.

BIOS update

I updated my ASUS PRIME B550M-K from BIOS 3302 to 4304, using ASUS EZ Flash 3.

The update completed successfully, Windows booted normally, and I retested with PCIe Gen3, 32GB RAM and 2133 MT/s.

The RTX 3090 Ti still gave no display.

So updating the motherboard BIOS did not immediately fix the problem.

5. Extensive RAM investigation

Because the GPU sometimes worked after changing memory configurations, I investigated RAM separately.

At one point:

• 16GB with the 3090 Ti worked.
• 32GB with the 3090 Ti worked.
• Adding a third 16GB DIMM caused No Signal.
• Removing that third DIMM restored display.

I eventually reduced the memory speed to 2133 MT/s and got all 80GB working.

Then I gradually increased the RAM frequency while testing.

However, after passing OCCT at 2866 MT/s, the next cold boot resulted in Windows recognizing the GPU with Code 43.

After that, I experienced No Signal failures again, even after reducing RAM to 2666 and eventually 2133 MT/s.

That makes me skeptical that RAM speed is the root cause.

All four DIMMs had also previously worked on the same motherboard, and the RTX 3060 Ti worked at 2666 MT/s.

6. GPU and VRAM stress tests on my computer

During one period when the RTX 3090 Ti was working, I ran additional tests.

OCCT 3D Adaptive — 15 minutes

• Errors: 0
• Maximum GPU temperature: 71.7°C
• Maximum hotspot: 89.2°C
• Maximum VRAM junction temperature: 68°C
• Observed GPU power consumption: approximately 467W

OCCT VRAM — 15 minutes

• Errors: 0
• Tested most of the 24GB VRAM
• No reported errors
• No crashes or graphical artifacts

These tests were successful.

The card can apparently handle substantial power draw and heavy GPU workloads when it initializes successfully.

This is why I'm confused about the repeated failures during startup.

Windows event logs

I checked Windows Event Viewer and Reliability Monitor.

The relevant observations:

• Code 43 occurred in Device Manager.
• nvidia-smi couldn't communicate with the GPU during that failure.
• Display Event 4107 appeared around some display mode changes.
• No relevant WHEA-Logger or nvlddmkm errors were found in the queried system events.
• Several Kernel-Power / unexpected-shutdown records were likely caused by hard shutdowns while troubleshooting.

Nothing in the available logs conclusively identified the hardware fault.

7. Testing the GPU in a completely different PC — October 18

This is where the investigation became especially strange.

I took the RTX 3090 Ti to a friend's house.

His computer:

• Motherboard: Gigabyte B650M S2H
• CPU: Ryzen 7 X3D
• RAM: 32GB DDR5
• PSU: 750W, native GPU cable marked 450W
• Normal GPU: RTX 5070

Test 1 — Initial installation

We installed the 3090 Ti.

No display.

It behaved similarly to my ASUS computer.

Test 2 — Force PCIe Gen3

We installed his RTX 5070 to access BIOS and manually forced the PCIe slot to Gen3.

Then we installed the 3090 Ti again.

It worked!

Windows booted, and nvidia-smi successfully detected the card.

Recorded values included:

• NVIDIA driver: 617.42
• 24GB VRAM / 24,564 MiB
• Idle temperature: approximately 33°C
• Idle GPU power: approximately 24W
• GPU power limit: 480W

No Code 43.

Test 3 — Reboot and cold boot

With the 3090 Ti installed, we tried:

• Normal Windows restart: PASS
• Shutdown followed by startup: PASS
• Complete PSU power-off for approximately five minutes, followed by startup: PASS

Everything worked.

Test 4 — My Endorfy 1000W PSU

Because the friend's PSU was only 750W, we replaced it with my Endorfy Supremo FM6 1000W, using its own cables.

The 3090 Ti still worked.

This was important because it was the same PSU that had been used during the failures in my ASUS system.

We did not run heavy stress tests on the friend's 750W PSU.

Test 5 — PCIe Gen4

Next, we changed the Gigabyte motherboard's PCIe link speed from Gen3 to Gen4.

To our surprise:

The RTX 3090 Ti worked perfectly at Gen4 too.

Previously, it had failed in Auto/Gen4 conditions. Now it worked.

8. Back home — the most confusing result

After all the tests at my friend's house, I brought the GPU back to my own computer.

I reinstalled it in the same ASUS PRIME B550M-K motherboard.

It worked immediately.

I then changed my motherboard's PCIe setting to Gen4.

It still worked.

I also reinstalled my additional RAM.

It continued working.

This is the same hardware combination that previously failed repeatedly, even after updating the motherboard BIOS and trying PCIe Gen3 with minimal RAM.

I did not intentionally repair anything.

The GPU was simply removed, transported, tested in another system, and reinstalled.

9. Current status

As of October 19:

• RTX 3090 Ti is working in my ASUS B550M-K.
• PCIe Gen4 is enabled.
• GPU is displaying normally.
• Additional system RAM has been reinstalled.
• The card also worked at Gen4 in my friend's Gigabyte B650M S2H.
• No physical repair has been performed.

However, I don't trust that the problem is permanently gone, since the GPU has recovered temporarily before and then failed again.

A GPU repair technician I contacted by phone suggested that thermal cycling could have caused a cracked solder joint or another intermittent physical connection.

This was only a suggestion based on the symptoms. The card has not been physically inspected or diagnosed.

I haven't opened the GPU, performed reflow/reballing, or flashed its VBIOS.

10. Questions for anyone experienced with GPU hardware repair or PCIe troubleshooting

1. Could a marginal PCIe connection or PCB-level fault cause this particular pattern?

Especially the combination of:

• No display before POST
• Intermittent Code 43
• Fully successful GPU/VRAM stress tests
• Temporary recovery after moving between motherboards

2. Could this indicate cracked BGA solder joints beneath the GPU, or would PCIe lane components/PCB connections be more plausible?

I'm not assuming a solder crack, but I'd like to understand whether the symptoms are consistent with one.

3. Why would forcing Gen3 initially make the GPU work, then Gen4 also start working later?

Could this be PCIe link training or signal integrity rather than a defective GPU core?

4. Could mechanical flex or reseating affect a marginal connection?

The SUPRIM X weighs approximately 2.15kg. I use an anti-sag support, but the card was physically moved between systems.

5. What would be the next meaningful diagnostic test?

I'm specifically interested in tests that can distinguish:

• GPU board-level hardware failure
• PCIe signal integrity problems
• Power-related initialization issues
• Motherboard-specific interoperability problems

6. Would you send this GPU to a board-level repair technician now, or continue using it until the issue returns?

I bought it used very recently and would rather not authorize expensive reflow/reballing without evidence of the actual fault.

I've spent quite a lot of time troubleshooting this card and would appreciate any technical insight, particularly from anyone who has worked on GA102-based GPUs or experienced similar intermittent PCIe initialization failures.

Thanks for reading.

images are there: https://imgur.com/a/zr307S8

Hello, I build a new PC and it makes my Tensor tympani muscle scream for help (fullnes in ears, physical pain in ears) - I cannot use it at all. The sound is not hearable by plain ear but the problem is very real.

I suspect CPU or it's interaction with PSUs and motherboards.

My old PCs never did this. But audiophile speakers in the past did this to me, but I switched to different speakers/amp/cables setup as a solution.

I changed EVERYTHING except CPU - brand new AMD 9800x3d.
2 1000w PSU (Seasonic and BeQuiet 13)
2 mobo x870e (MSI gaming plus wifi and Gigabyte Aorus PRO x3d)
3 cases, two air coolers, 2 RAM sets (2x16GB EXPO)
... even brought PC to friend's house to rule out electricity problem in my house wall outlets.

Disabled all the moving fans, swappend SSDs for proven as "safe". Nothing helps.
GPU RTX 5080 removed for now, but didn't make things worse when it was in the system.
Running of integrated GPU now.

BIOS tweaks: C-states disables, CLL voltage on Ultra, ErP enabled (because it happens even when PC in of standby, not running). Changing Expo profiles make some switch I feel, but disabling expo is not a solution.

Any tip what to try next? I spent silly amount of money and I'm left with no usable computer. I need it for work, not just for gaming. I can RMA my current 9800x3d but it will take time.

Basically I'm willing to buy new CPU and keep it if it helps but I will return if it won't help. Considering amp/speakers problem in the past, I was thinking about getting 9850x3d or 9950x3d because they are slightly different architecture - instead of buying new 9800x3d again. Or would you try something else?

Thanks for any suggestions.

The start of the troubleshooting, nothing solved: 
https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapc/comments/1v9tk1o/help_me_build_a_pc_with_low_acoustic_pressure/

Hello,

I've been working on a new PC and I am unable to get it to boot to the BIOS consistently.

Parts List:

Intel Core Ultra 5 245KF

Gigabyte B860M Eagle Plus Wifi6e

Corsair Vengeance RGB 2x16gb

Corsair SF750 80 Plus Platinum

MSI Mag Coreliquid A13 360 Black AIO

Kingston NV3 M.2 1TB

ASRock Challenger B570

All in a Lian Li A3-mATX

This is the first PC I've built so yeah.

Build went fine with getting everything together, but issues have started on boot. The machine will power on with RAM in A2 & B2 but will not output anything to the display. Each stick individually will work in A2 or A1, but won't in B1 or B2. When in single channel mode I am able to turn XMP on and then it will inconsistently boot with ram in dual channel. The VGA light on the mobo is on.

I've tried re-seating the GPU, I've checked to ensure I didn't over tighten the CPU cooler, as well as verified there were no bent pins. My next step was to update the bios to version FA5 from version FA4; but whenever I have the drive with the new version plugged in I won't get any display. All the parts I'm using are older than the February 2nd, 2026 version date of FA4 so I somewhat think that a version update won't help in this situation.

From reading other Reddit posts, it seems like others have had issues with Gigabyte motherboards and Corsair Vengeance ram compatibility in the past. If this was a year ago I probably would just order a different ram kit and just try it, with ram prices where they are I want some advice on what anyone reading this recommends to try.

This system is going to get used as a game server. So some of this is probably way overkill for what I'm intending with it. I did not want to buy a used workstation off Ebay for this as I had the thought that it was going to be more trouble than it's worth. But after spending way more time than I should have troubleshooting this, I'm wishing I had.

Thanks!

I’ve completed my first PC build, and run into a couple of issues I can’t figure out. First, when I turn my pc on, it runs for 10 or so minutes and then shuts off. the mobo continues working, the lights stay on, but my other components shut off. Sometimes when I try to turn it back on after shutting off, it immediately shuts off again.

Additionally my monitor doesn’t seem to have a video connection to the pc. initially when I turned it on it asked for me to select a language, but now the light constantly flashes white like it’s in sleep mode and says I have no signal with either DP or HDMI. It’s plugged into the GPU, not the mobo.

here’s my parts I used

AMD Ryzen 7 7700X

Thermalright Aqua Elite V3 Liquid Cooler

ASRock B650 Steel Legend WiFi ATX AM5 Motherboard

Barracuda 2TB HDD

Crucial Pro Overclocking 32GB DDR5 6000

Crucial P310 w Acronis 4TB SSD

ASRock Steel Legend Radeon RX 9070 XT 16 GB

HYTE Y60 Snow White Case

Thermaltake Toughpower GF A3 850W Gold Modular PSU

Koorui 34E6UC Curved Monitor

Hello everyone, I need help solving a problem with my pc that I haven't been able to understand. About 3 days ago my motherboard showed a red cpu light and yellow ram light. I used standart troubleshooting procedures to bring the pc back to working normall(I reseated the RAM and CPU, reattatched all cables and reset the BIOS using the jumper pins), after it turned back on(with the bios reset), the PC started working weirdly. Opening apps makes them crash and give me a white screen, closing them with task manager makes it crash too and eventually resetting my pc. Ram never goes past 80% and cpu temps are below 70C even under load. The build is pretty new(from july) and it's my first self-built pc.

Specs:
Sapphire pulse RX 9060XT 16GB GPU

7800x3d CPU

MSI Pro B850 WIFI 6e Motherboard
Corsair RM650e PSU

Kingston fury 16gb ddr5 6000 CL36 RAM

Thermalright PS 120SE cooled

2tb Nvme gen 4x4 SSD

Feel free to ask for additional information for help.

I've recently gotten a 3060 ti to replace my 1050 ti. I've replaced my graphics card and when I do i get no signal to my monitor.

Hey all,

I recently noticed the cpu light on my mobo is on, but my system has been booting and running fine. Is this normal?

I’ve already tried updating my bios to no avail.

I have a ryzen 7700 and gigabyte b850 aorus elite wifi 7

​

I’m trying to figure out whether anyone else has seen a similar issue with a Radeon RX 9070 XT, specifically DisplayPort instability while HDMI remains completely stable.

System: CPU: Ryzen 7 9700X

Motherboard: ASUS B650E MAX GAMING WIFI

GPU: SAPPHIRE NITRO+ Radeon RX 9070 XT

PSU: Montech Century II 850W (native 12V-2×6 cable)

RAM: DDR5 6000

Storage: WD Black SN7100 2TB

Monitors: 2× MSI G32CQ4 (1440p, 165Hz)

Setup has been tested in multiple configurations:

One monitor on DP, second on HDMI (currently most stable configuration)

Both monitors on DP (issue still occurs)

Single monitor on DP (issue still occurs)

Symptoms:

Random black screen on DisplayPort monitor for \~2–3 seconds, then signal returns

Happens at idle (web browsing, Spotify) and under load (gaming)

No system crash, no reboot, audio continues during blackout

HDMI output is completely stable at all times on the same system

What I’ve already tested:

Swapped DisplayPort cables (multiple cables tested)

Tested both DisplayPort outputs on GPU

Lowered refresh rate (165Hz → 144Hz/164Hz, no change)

Disabled sleep (monitors only turn off after 15 min, system never sleeps)

Disabled hardware acceleration in Chrome and Firefox

Updated to latest AMD Adrenalin drivers

Clean driver reinstall (no change)

Tested gaming under full load for hours (stable in some cases, but issue still appears at idle/light use)

Observations:

Issue appears to be DisplayPort-specific only

HDMI is fully stable under identical conditions

Problem seems random but more common during low load / idle state transitions

Current working theory: This may be related to DisplayPort link training / power-state transition behavior between the GPU and MSI G32CQ4 monitors, or a DisplayPort subsystem issue on the GPU itself. Not seeing signs of general system instability or power issues.

Question: Has anyone seen similar behavior with RX 7000/9000-series cards where:

HDMI is stable but DP intermittently blacks out

System remains running normally

Issue occurs at idle or light use rather than load

Trying to determine if this is a known AMD driver/firmware issue, a monitor compatibility issue, or potentially a faulty GPU.

Thank you to anyone who has any insight on the issue!

I just solved the most frustrating issue with my custom desktop, and I need to share this so nobody else wastes a whole week losing their mind over it. About ten days ago, my system started randomly freezing. No blue screen, no error codes, just completely locking up. The weirdest part? It usually happened whenever I adjusted my monitor, hit my knee against the desk, or set a heavy mug down.

I went full tech support mode. I reseated the RAM, swapped the GPU to a different slot, ran MemTest86 for hours (zero errors), and checked all my SSD connections. Temperatures were completely fine. I was genuinely starting to think my motherboard had a micro-fracture that was flexing whenever the desk vibrated.

Turns out, the culprit was my own "perfect" zip-tie job. When I built the PC, I pulled the main 24-pin motherboard power cable back so tightly behind the tray to make the back look clean that there was absolutely no slack left. Every tiny vibration of the desk caused the stiff cable to microscopically toggle inside the socket, briefly losing contact on one of the pins.

I snipped the ties, gave the cable some room to breathe, and the issue vanished instantly.

Has anyone else ever broken their own system just by being way too aggressive with cable management?

I bought a used 2x8gb cl16 3000mhz ram kit, before that I used 1x16gb cl16 3200mhz and I used to run that on 3000mhz.

And when i installed my new ram kit and got into bios and i checked it was showing full 16gb memory and the xmp was set to DISABLED and the DRAM FREQUENCY was 3000mhz and i turned on the XMP to PROFILE 1 and exit the bios and after that I'm not getting any display, fans are spinning everything running but not getting any display.

I did reset the ram sticks and drained the pc power and tryna boot again but same no display.

Specs:

• i7-14700KF (BIOS 1.D0, Sept 2024, microcode 0x12B, Intel default power limits confirmed enforced)
• 32 GB DDR4 Corsair RAM
• RTX 3070, 2x 8-pin on separate PCIe cables
• MSI PRO B760-P WIFI DDR4 (MS-7D98)
• Corsair RM750x (Oct 2020)
• Windows 11 24H2

Symptoms: During demanding games only (GTA V, Palworld), screen goes black, audio hangs for a few seconds then dies, system reboots on its own. Light games run for hours with no issue. Crashes typically hit after 20 to 45 min of play. Event Viewer shows Kernel-Power 41, mostly BugcheckCode 307 (0x133 DPC_WATCHDOG_VIOLATION, P1=1 cumulative), plus one 0x116 (VIDEO_TDR) and one 0xD1.

Everything I have tried and ruled out:

• DDU clean install of GPU driver. Fixed the original 0x116 crashes, then 0x133 crashes started
• Crashed on three different driver versions: pre-DDU driver, Game Ready 610.74, and Studio 610.62 (clean installs each time)
• Uninstalled MSI Afterburner and MSI Center. Verified their kernel drivers (rtcore64, ntiolib) gone from later crash dumps. Still crashed
• Fully removed iCUE, verified CorsairLLAccess kernel driver unloaded via driverquery. Still crashed
• Updated Intel AX211 Wi-Fi driver (one 0xD1 crash blamed Netwtw14.sys), then fully disabled the Wi-Fi adapter so the driver could not load. Still crashed
• Reseated all PSU cables both ends. Two separate PCIe cables to GPU, no daisy chain
• BIOS reset to optimized defaults. Crashed with XMP on and with XMP off (RAM at JEDEC 3200)
• Cinebench 2026 multi core 10 min: passed, scored 6539 which is normal for a 14700KF. Max 92C, PL1/PL2 locked at 253W, no sustained throttling, WHEA error count 0

Kernel dump analysis (WinDbg on full kernel dump):

FAILURE_BUCKET_ID: 0x133_ISR_nvlddmkm
Current DPC: nvlddmkm+0xEA6F0
Cumulative DPC Time: 120.000 / 120.000 seconds

Stack shows KiExecuteAllDpcs sitting inside nvlddmkm when the watchdog fired. So the NVIDIA driver is stalling in DPC, but since this happens on three driver versions, my read is the driver is polling a GPU that stopped responding, meaning hardware.

Also to note: months ago I occasionally saw the red LEDs light up at the GPU power connectors, though cables have since been reseated on separate runs and haven't noticed them since.

Still on my list: reseat the GPU itself in the slot, force PCIe Gen 3 in BIOS, MemTest86 overnight?, then test the card in another system.

Question: Does this look like a dying 3070 (VRAM or power delivery), or is there anything software side I have missed? Has anyone seen 0x133 nvlddmkm across multiple driver versions turn out to be something other than the GPU (PSU transients, PCIe slot, board)? The 80% power limit extending survival time seems telling but I would love a second opinion before I spend money.

Happy to post HWiNFO screenshots in comments.

m trying to build a pc for a friend with a 3080 ti and a ryzen 7 9800x3d on a b850 aorus elite motherboard all powered by a 850 wat 80+ gold power supply. I cant seem to get it to power on. the rgb lights on the ram light up and the ones in the fans try but thats it. im at a loss atm and any suggestions are welcome.

First time builder and not sure what I’ve done wrong. Doesn’t even boot into bios screening. Checked all the connectors and seems ok. Illl try to attach a video.

Not sure if this forum lets me upload videos of photos actually... these are the parts im using

MSI PRO B850-S EVO WIFI Motherboard, ATX - Supports AMD Ryzen 9000/8000 / 7000 Processors, AM5 - DDR5 Memory Boost

9800 x3d

CORSAIR VENGEANCE RGB DDR5 RAM 32GB (2x16GB) Up to 6000MHz CL36 Intel XMP iCUE Compatible Computer Memory - Black (CMH32GX5M2E6000C36)

MSI GeForce RTX 5080 16G INSPIRE 3X OC BLACK Graphics Card - RTX 5080 GPU, 16GB GDDR7 (30Gbps/256-bit), PCIe 5.0 - Triple Fan Thermal Design (3 x STORMFORCE Fan) - HDMI 2.1b, DisplayPort 2.1b

ThermalrightPhantom Spirit 120 SE CPU Air Cooler, 7 Heat pipes CPU Cooler,Dual 120mm TL-C12B V2 PWM Fans, AGHP 4.0 Technology, S-FDB Bearing, for AM4/AM5,Intel lga1851/1700/1150/1151/1200, PC Cooling

NZXT C850 Gold Core - 850W ATX 3.1 Power Supply, 80+ Gold

WD SN850X

When i power up, the ez debug lights up both cpu and dram before turning off then the whole computer shuts down. Quite hard for me to explain... I have tried jiggling to connectors and reinstalling both the graphics card and the cpu but still doesn't work.

Hi all,

I've had my new pc for a while now but I've started to have some issues since one of my speakers fell right onto the DP cable and iirc yanked it out of the gpu slot. The cable's housing broke, so when I tried to put it back in after pressing it together, nothing came up.

I had a spare hdmi cable so I just plugged that in. However, now my screen randomly goes to black once per restart/standby-to-awake cycle, after either 1 or 2 minutes or several more.

The worst thing that happened is that today, my screen turned black and my audio glitched for a few seconds. Screen said no signal was coming on hdmi1, so I shut down the pc using the power button and restarted, which made it come back to normal.

I did check the DP port and it doesn't seem like anything's damaged. Could this just be a bad hdmi cable? Or is my GPU silently asking for a repair while it's still in warranty? I haven't noticed any performance loss or cooling problems

Issue description:
For some time now I’ve had a recurring issue where my Ethernet connection suddenly disconnects while gaming (most noticeably in Overwatch and and heavily internet-dependent games). The adapter drops out completely for like 10-20 seconds, kicks me out of the game and in ranked matches this results in bans since it looks like I’m intentionally leaving.

System/Motherboard info:
• Motherboard: MSI B650 Tomahawk WiFi

• Purchase date: 27.07.2025 (Mindfactory, Germany) - I would still have a warranty.

• OS: Windows 11 (freshly reinstalled)

Troubleshooting steps already taken:
• Uninstalled and completely removed old network drivers, then reinstalled fresh ones

• Updated the motherboard BIOS

• Fully reinstalled Windows from scratch

• Purchased and tested an additional/separate PCIe network card - issue persists on both onboard LAN and the new card

• Swapped the Ethernet cable multiple times, tried different cables/brands

• Changed the port on my mini-switch

• Bypassed the mini-switch entirely and connected directly to the router/modem

• Reset CMOS / loaded BIOS default settings

• Disabled A-XMP (memory overclock profile) - enabling A-XMP had also been causing separate BIOS boot issues, occasionally failing to POST or making it hard to enter BIOS

• Disabled “ASPM Control for CPU PCIe” in BIOS (previously set to Auto)

• Disabled PCI Express Link State Power Management in Windows power settings

• Reseated all internal cables and connectors on the motherboard (24-pin ATX, CPU power, RAM, PCIe card) to rule out loose connections

Event Viewer observations:
Around the time of the disconnects, there’s no clean “network cable unplugged” or NIC driver error in the logs. Instead, I see  Kernel-Power  events (consistent with an unexpected shutdown/restart) and a  Power-Troubleshooter  entry nearby, with no WHEA-Logger errors found so far.

Current suspicion:
Since the issue occurs on two different network adapters (onboard and a separate PCIe card) and persists despite cable, driver, OS, and switch changes, I suspect this may not be a simple NIC problem but rather a broader hardware/power stability issue potentially related to the motherboard, PCIe power delivery, or memory stability.

Does anyone have any other ideas what I could try?

TL:DR: Tried to upgrade PC. The computer ‘turns on’, fans spin, but there is no display output. Looking for troubleshooting help

This weekend I attempted to upgrade my wife’s PC. It had been a couple of years and had started to slow down (not just gaming – it’s been slow to boot and open programs as well).

Here’s the part list from her original build with the upgrade path:

I started by flashing the BIOS to v10.6 to support the new CPU. I tested the PC and no issues booting then, and then started to get to work on the upgrade. I (naively) thought I could get away with replacing everything in one go and having a smooth boot. No such luck. The computer ‘turns on’, fans spin, but there is no display output. I have spent hours troubleshooting and am at a standstill.

Here’s what I’ve tried:

-        Re-seating everything (RAM, CPU, PSU cables, GPU, etc.) and cleared CMOS

-        Minimal boot (only 1 stick RAM, CPU, GPU, normal case cables (USB, power switch etc.). Nothing.

-        Switching back to the old CPU, and switching back to the old PSU. Interestingly only for the new PSU/old CPU, the computer doesn’t even turn on, fans spin for a half sec and then nothing (fans fully spin for new PSU/new CPU, and old PSU, old CPU).

-        Putting everything old back (GPU, CPU, PSU) except the cooler (the old cooler is very dusty and I don’t think that should affect the boot). Nothing.

Here’s what I’ve confirmed:

-        Issue is not the GPU. I put in the working GPU from my build (3080ti) and the same problem presents itself

-        Issue is not the display. The displays work fine on other devices.

I currently suspect the motherboard since it’s the common denominator (either failed or I am shorting it somehow with the new build), but this motherboard doesn’t have the troubleshooting display lights, I bought a mini motherboard speaker to help diagnose, it will arrive tomorrow but in the meantime I’m looking for any suggestions for troubleshooting or anything else I could try. Thanks!

Hi everyone,
I’ve been having a recurring problem with my Ethernet connection and have already tried quite a few things, but I still haven’t been able to figure out what’s causing it.
The Ethernet connection randomly stops working. When this happens, Wi-Fi remains stable, so it seems to be specifically related to the wired connection.

My PC
CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D
GPU: NVIDIA RTX 5070 Ti
Motherboard: ASRock B850 LiveMixer WiFi
RAM: 32 GB DDR5-6000 CL30
SSD: Lexar NM790 4 TB
CPU cooler: Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE
PSU: 850 W
Case: Lian Li LANCOOL 217
OS: Windows 11

What I have already tried
Realtek Ethernet
Updated/changed the Realtek Ethernet driver
Disabled EEE (Energy Efficient Ethernet)
Disabled Green Ethernet
Disabled power-saving options for the network adapter
Changed various Realtek network adapter settings
Checked the adapter in Device Manager
Windows still reports “This device is working properly” even when the problem occurs
Windows / network settings
Reset Winsock
Reset the IP/network stack
Performed a complete Windows network reset
Changed and tested various network adapter settings
BIOS / drivers
Updated the motherboard BIOS
Updated AMD chipset drivers
Updated the Realtek Ethernet driver
Hardware / connection
Tested a different Ethernet cable
Tested different LAN ports on the router
Tested different USB ports
Tested an ASIX USB Ethernet adapter
The USB Ethernet adapter was specifically tested to rule out the onboard Realtek Ethernet controller
Tested a direct connection
Completely power-cycled the PC and network hardware

What makes this strange
The Realtek network adapter still appears to be working normally in Windows when the connection drops.
So this doesn’t look like a typical situation where Windows completely disconnects the Ethernet adapter.
I’m currently trying to determine whether the problem is related to:
Realtek Ethernet controller
USB Ethernet adapter
Ethernet cable
motherboard
Windows/network stack
drivers
router
or something else

Has anyone with an ASRock B850 LiveMixer / Realtek Ethernet / Windows 11 experienced something similar?
Are there any other Realtek settings, Windows settings, BIOS options, or diagnostic tests you would recommend?
I’ve already tried BIOS/chipset/Realtek driver updates, EEE/Green Ethernet, power-saving settings, USB Ethernet, different cables, router ports, USB ports, network resets, and power-cycling the hardware.

Cpu overheated a whole ago so I bought a icue link titan 360 rx, a new i5-14600kf and a new z790 tomahawk ddr5 wifi mobo with new ddr5 ram.

Issue im running into, my psu is making a click and turning off my mobo. Im assuming the red cpu light is soild or it could be okay to finish post however its clicking and shutting off instantly.

I thought it was a cpu issue with my mobo since z790 doesnt support 14th gen out of box and I flashed bios with a fash drive. Im assuming it worked because after the 5-10mins my ram sticks started glowing however nothing else turned on.

I've reset cmos, yes I have all contact points for my mobo, psu is brand new and has plenty of watts, and every connection is secure. Ive even removed everything from my pc and put it all together slowly and carefully.