Taking the blown big block Camaro to the grocery store…….

In the two years I’ve driven this car it’s needed done due to the wheel speed sensor being bad and I finally bit the bullet and did it yesterday, I had forgotten how nice these drive with actually functional abs and traction control. I still need to order a bunch of suspension parts but that’s a project for later.

Disclaimer: This is my first project, I have no idea what im doing and trying to learn along the way with the help (and occasional trashtalk) from the wonderful car community!

I have absolutely loved every minute of the journey, but im starting to run into things that require ordering new parts or trying to chase down part from wreckers, and as the car is 35 years old the bits are starting to get harder to find. Do you guys also have issues with this? and any suggestions to push through the massive downer of getting 90% of the way through a component fix to find you are missing something?

Come along for the journey, its gonna be a long one, and I have no idea if this thing will even run!
Fingers Crossed..

I will add the video in the comments for anyone interested in following along.

My 1uz has had this janky DIY exhaust since I swapped it in. It's a 4 cylinder exhaust that now has a y pipe into it. One muffler. It sounds bad and is really loud at low rpms.

I can't go to an exhaust shop without the rabbit hole of adding cats (state law and even though my county is exempt shops won't touch it)

Low rpms sound like high pitched straightpipe. I just want that gone and sound beyond that is kinda whatever. I'll bug my friend to help me weld it but am wondering if it's worth building a 2.5" exhaust all the way from the Y or if I can get it just as quiet by just buying a nicer muffler. I'm sure the sound would be improved with 2.5" but yeah. Wondering what you fluid dynamics and acoustics fellas think.

We have our own shows, but this was our first time hosting Social Sunday, it was pretty cool!

So I’ve got a 92 Camry with the 2.2 4cyl silly little 5 speed it runs fine but it’s very basic and I want to do some mods to it but there’s almost little to absoloutley nothing online about these nobody does anything to them I just want to know any thoughts ideas what I can do that won’t cost a lot I don’t have a budget but trying to stay under 2500 in the car if anyone knows anything that would be I don’t know “cool” on it that’s not like a complete turbo setup I plan to do a complete rebuild at some point but not for another year or so I just want to add a little bit of HP something even the slightest bit noticeable and make it sound cool I have all th either stuff on lock I have wrap coming I’m already about to do primer I have some nice “bucket” seats coming re-upholstering the interior have my quick release yada yada main focus is engine power and sound don’t need a lot just ENOUGH to have the slightest notice that won’t absoloutley obliterate this tiny little 4 cylinder if possible I’d like it bolt on but I really can’t find a single thing online that’s straight bolt on to this engine maybe I didn’t look hard enough but that’s all I got (it’s currently sitting sanded down)

Sharing some before, during and after photos of my 3008 facelift conversion. Updated the bumper, grille and headlights to the newer design, and I’m really happy with how it turned out.

The biggest pain was getting the factory LED headlights to work. I ended up manually recreating the signals they needed using a relay setup. That took plenty of wiring and testing, but everything now works 100% through the car’s original lighting controls.

Definitely the most challenging part of the project, and also the most satisfying once it all came together. What do you guys think?

Currently my headlights don’t work. We tested it with a multimeter and it seems even the fuse box itself isn’t receiving power on the fuse for my headlights. Any advice on what the issue could be? I have new headlights, and every other light on the car is currently working.

So my Lexus IS250 has been sitting for a couple years.

Went to get it back on the road recently and couldn’t get it to turn over. It appears that rodents have thwarted my efforts.

If I just splice wire extensions to reconnect, should it work? I haven’t found all of the matches yet but it can’t be that hard right? If basic connections work I’ll go back and solder them like they should be.

1/3 of the way through fitting this 74 mazda RX-4 front fascia onto my 84 camaro my back needed a break from being hunched over this thing. So I threw enough lights back in to be road legal and put her back in service.

BTW, I titled this poorly. I'm taking a break from welding on my car, I'm not a welder by trade.

Going back through footage from my B6 A4 1.8T six-speed manual project. That hole in the block was the start of a much bigger rebuild. This short edit shows the damage and a little of the cylinder-head work that followed.

These are my original project clips, edited from the archive, not a current teardown or a step-by-step repair guide. The edit includes brief AI narration alongside the original audio.

What is the worst surprise you have found during a teardown?

Just so it is relevant to project cars - between buying and taking delivery it has had the aircon refilled, twice, leading to a leaking ac pipe being fixed, refurbished engine bay panels, two new taillights and the bracket that holds them has been repaired as it cracked due to years of vibration 😬.

Also by the time I got it home to London in very high temps + stop start traffic it threw up an engine warning light. I’m thinking it’s most likely a sensor that overheated and couldn’t perform an emissions test, will have to monitor that one.

Weirdly ok with it all as I knew what I was getting in to and has some cosmetic, light mechanical stuff that I’m going to do myself. It’s an “honest” example and was priced right. Looking forward to the journey and hopefully I am not bankrupt this time Next year! At least it’s a manual so don’t have to worry about the f1 transmission.

Also I hope it doesn’t catch fire…

I’m looking at photos of original setups and it doesn’t seem to connect to anything. I just need to know if I should repair it as is or just cut it off.

I bought this USDM 2005 Legacy GT a few years ago and shortly after the engine blew up (cracked exhaust valve). I have rebuilt the entire engine, going all out with darton sleeves, forged pistons, rods, valve train, the whole works. It took me a while to finish the build and get the engine in the car due to other priorities in life. However, I have finally finished the entire build and the engine wont start.

The symptoms:

When I turn the ignition key, I get a single click followed by nothing from the starter, if I hold the key in the start position eventually smoke will start coming from the wires to the starter. The ground and positive cable off the battery get hot as well, hence the smoke. The starter simply won't crank.

I replaced the starter motor, with no change. I tried charging the battery, using a different battery from my other car, jump starting the car, adding an extra ground wire to the engine at the starter belhousing bolt, using a screw driver to jump the starter signal spade from the positive wire off the battery, taking the starter out of the bellhousing and trying to crank it (thinking the engine was seized or too tight). Nothing has worked. I can turn the engine by hand with a ratchet on the crank. I bench tested the starter out of the car and it cranked fine.

I am so confused. The only thing I can think is the grounds are messed up or the factory cables from battery to starter are corroded internally? But neither really explain why it just won't crank at all.

Please help!

EDIT: IT RUNS! It was the firing order, it uses the 289 firing order. I know it seems like a simple thing, but I originally had the motor built nearly 20 years ago and forgot about the firing order change. Thanks to everyone for helping!

I am at a loss folks. My truck has been doing this for weeks (I can only work on it on the weekends). I had to pull the motor due to a broken motor mount and changed the transmission, and it hasn't started since I put it back in.

Here is the run down.

Ford 351W - basically a stock build, with an "RV" cam, Ford cast iron 4brl manifold, stock compression, nothing fancy just reliable.

GM HEI conversion distributor - I just put this in as the Duraspark II it had stopped working, again.

Electric fuel pump

Edelbrock 1406 Carb

New plugs

I have triple checked top dead center on #1, and I have no idea how many times I have confirmed the firing order, a 351W is different than a 289 and 302.

I have rotated the distributor from TDC on #1 almost all the way to the next wire both advance and retard.

The most it will do is kick once then BOOF fire out the carb.

My dad said it could be that the timing chain has slipped a tooth, but I think it would still run, but badly. And he agreed that the likelyhood of this is very small. The motor has less than 10k miles on it.

Any thoughts? I am open to any and all suggestions. Thanks in advance.

So I have a 93 MR2 and want to work on it but kind of neglected it. So now I'm starting to get back on the grind and the 1st issue I need to tackle is rusting on the roof/rear pillar. Would the best option be grinding and if so, what wheels? I recently acquired a angle grinder for various jobs and wanted the opinions from everyone.

Thanks in advance

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I currently have a w58 that needs 2 new gears and countershaft replaced, can't seem to find parts for it Can anyone guide where I could get parts for it.

Did my first non rattlecan paintjob, first time trying hvlp. After spending the past year welding in panels fixing dents and bodywork. It ain't perfect but good enough for a truck that's gonna be used plus can't let perfect be the enemy of good.

Rides better than a new car now (and looks better too)