Fitting a 1.8T 20VT into my Mk1 Twingo. I’ve used my 3D scanner and scanned everything, made up mounts in CAD. So far everything seems to be fitting up as per the computer 👌

Really is a game changer being able to visualize everything on a computer and see what’s gonna fit, saves a lot of messing around suspending the engine while you tack mounts up etc!

ChatGPT is unbelievable at this, it’s aligned the scans, helped me make the mounts etc up too.

Doing the build over on my YouTube channel - Kris Duprey’s Garage if anyone’s interested! First engine swap video should be going live next weekend!

This truck was hit on the front drive side at some point in its life so it’s a bit tweaked. The fiberglass hood that came on it didn’t have any fitment issues but with this new one it’s coming up too narrow.

I’m at a loss at the moment as to why I can’t get it to fit right. It’s got my to be mounted on dzus rails so I need enough meat around the fasteners. The way it currently is I either have zero or the fastener would stick out the side.

The driver side has about a 1/4” gap between the fender and core support versus the pass side that’s flush. So if I could make up that 1/4 I could roll with it.

If anyone has some pointers I am all ears.

I recently bought a 1990 Toyota Camry and while I won't be suping it up to the max, I do intend on making it the most comfortable daily that I can. My current plans involve a custom headliner, sound system, upgraded suspension, and I want to fabricate a TV mount for the deck lid so that when you open the trunk, you have a TV staring at you and then put my Xbox 360 in the trunk. Fun plans. But, the seats, they need reupholstering. Foam is missing, cloth torn, etc. But, the seats aren't very comfortable in the first place. They hurt my back and the adjustments on them are incredibly annoying because instead of levers, they're wheels that you turn. It takes two or three minutes of cranking on a wheel to lay the seat back if I need a quick parking lot nap, I hate it.

So, my question is, what aftermarket options are out there? Everything I'm finding with a quick google search is showing me racing seats. This will never be a fast car, I don't want uncomfortable racing seats. I wouldn't mind taking seats from a different car, so what other cars have comfortable seats? I'm finding lots of seats out of 90s and 00s Celicas. I was already planning on reupholstering the OEM seats before realizing that I don't like them, so I don't mind getting seats that aren't color matched and reupholstering them. My budget is $600 USD and comfort is my priority, I'd love to hear some good recommendations!

rebuilt carb tonight, throw it on real quick, and its making this weird ass whooshing noise. I start seeing fire in the reflection on the wooden fence. thought it was fire in the exhaust, when come to find out my fuel inlet was leaking from.stripped threads internally, spewing fuel everywhere. ignore the fucking primal scream lmao, I love this car, and haters garage gave me second hand ptsd just then

I’ve been working on my ford ranger project. I did the bodywork on the bed and it’s as straight as I can get it, sprayed it in epoxy primer (only a couple runs), and I’ve been going back and forth on paint. Do I use single stage acrylic urethane or a 2k polyurethane bedliner product, well I decided on the bed liner. And if you do the prep work right and go through all the steps to make it last it’s just as much work and just as expensive as single stage urethane paint. Maybe a bit more forgiving. This is the first vehicle I’ve painted so there’s a few flaws in it. Today I sprayed the inside of the box, lower quarters, fender flares, and tailgate in the black. I wanted it fairly smooth and after a lot of research I used an hvlp with a 2.5mm tip, reduced the bedliner 20% full fan and fluid on the gun and 60psi at the gun. Also about 4-6” away. Right or wrong idk but I like the results it’s kinda egg shell or “orange peel “ texture and a nice satin finish. This week sometime I’ll scuff the primer on top and spray the blue. Anyway thought I’d share if anyone else has thought about the same thing.

I see a lot of 'my new turbo died in 3 months' posts, so here's the checklist I go through before fitting any replacement turbo, OEM or aftermarket:

1. Find out why the old one failed. Shaft play + oil everywhere usually means oil starvation or a clogged return, not a bad turbo.
2. Replace the oil feed line, or at least the banjo bolt and its filter screen. Carbon in the old line is the #1 killer.
3. Check the oil return isn't kinked or blocked, and check crankcase pressure (bad PCV/CCV pushes oil past the seals).
4. Clean the intercooler and charge pipes if the old turbo shed any metal.
5. Fresh oil and filter, then prime the turbo with clean oil through the feed port before first start.
6. Crank without starting for a few seconds if you can, then idle 1-2 minutes before any boost.
7. Use new gaskets everywhere, don't reuse old ones.

Skip these and even a brand new OEM unit can fail early. Anything you'd add?

I'm currently in the process of restoring a '69 mach 1 that's in need of some pretty heavy metal replacement. Im going to build a jig and bracing to keep it all straight and prevent any twisting/distortion (if you have any tips on this let me know!) but before i do that i want to make sure the straightness isn't already compromised from the rust. Does anyone know where i can find/ if they know reference points and measurements for the body?

Hello everyone, I hope you are doing well. I have had a desire for a project car since I was a young teen, I am now in my mid twenties. I have zero mechanical experience and very limited knowledge, but I would love to learn. I have one person who would be able to help out a bit. Originally I was hyperfixated on getting an NA Miata, however the prices have obviously shot into outer freaking space. I am interested in almost every genre of vehicle. I love 90s japanese cars (hilux, land cruiser, skyline, any rx7, 70s corollas and cressidas are also awesome), 70s american trucks (I would especially love to own an f250 high boy someday), I also really like 60s and 70s american cars, like the satellite, nova,, and dusters. I am a bit less interested in euro cars, but I still think vw rabbits, all the little british sports cars and some saabs are neat. While probably out of my price range, I also love 50s and pre war american cars as well. I live in Canada, so snow and salt are massive problems. I currently daily a base model 2015 lancer, so this project would NOT be my sole mode of transportation. Any suggestions? I salute you if you made it this far lol, thanks in advance.

AH3000. New headers in. New radiator hoses installed. Just a few more things to do until the first start!

Got a 1995 Mustang GT with the Mach 460 system. The amp has taken a shit and only outputs on the tweeters. The only place I can find a direct replacement is used Ebay items. I'd rather get a new aftermarket component but arent well versed in the ways of the stereo Wu. I presume an aftermarket amp would be similar to this, just have to figure out what wires are for what, right? Thnx in advance

Listen fellas, im a honda guy but even i want to own a car or two thats not NA FWD.

I have the unique opportunity as of recently to justify the purchase of a project SPECIFICALLY with the idea that i can bastardize it in mind.

I need to practice/learn bodywork and paint so that i can fully restore my 1st car of all its damage, thus a project car

MY QUESTION, i want something rwd and manual, almost non negotiable, but i would LOVE a !!!FACTORY!!! turbo

Its gonna be clapped out anyways because a good car gives me no room to learn the skill i need, so i want recommendations for all the rwd turbo cars that can be had for cheap, has to be factory otherwise it wont be carb legal sadly

This is probably going to be my biggest car project to date. Gonna be part custom part restomod, but it should be cool when it's done. Build my first engine for it, gonna do a whole new drivetrain, rear suspension, mustang 2 front end, and gonna paint it myself. This is the progress over the last 2 weeks. The third picture made me laugh, you can see how thick the buildup is on the frame.

So I picked up a 98 civic b20b swap with a gsr trans. (First project)

Issues I’m having and wondering best ways to go about it.
-Brake lines look crunchy so need to replace hard lines
-Have a fuel leak and seems to stem from fuel lines
-has a cambered suspension,rear lca brace kit, id like to remove camber

Also need to dumb down clutch as it is 6puck and don’t want to drive like an ass 24/7

My goal is to have the car a little more in stock form.
Would I be better off swapping to another shell? Is it cheaper to swap to new shell at this rate or try to turn things back to more stock form?

She’s got over 330000 kilometres on the original engine and gearbox, and the body is in rough shape, but it’ll be worth it.
Getting it roadworthy and doing some reliability mods first, New oil pickup, sump baffles and the cylinder 4 cooling Mod. Then roadworthy, start cleaning up the engine bay a little, correcting 20yo me’s silly mistakes and shortcuts, and then it’s on the repairing the bodywork, rust and prepping for a respray.

1986 pontiac trans am, factory 305 sb, everything else hot rod stuff. car came factory with a tbi setup and automatic, is now carbd and manual, and trying to buy a new carburetor, but from factory these cars came with electric chokes, and so without the harness in place for the electric choke, im honestly lost on what to do. im not at all the sharpest tool in the shes when it cokes to these venturi demons on my v8 modur, so any advice will help on what i should do, what i should buy, what i need to look out for, etc

Still need to get the dome lights in, but now with 95.27% less mold (Map lights and Sun Visors pulled from a 2005 Chevy Equinox) now it needs a new windshield and it'll be a good driver

Long story short my Genesis coupe needs a new paint job desperately. I’ve been thinking about just sanding it down and wrapping it but professionals have advised me to just paint it. However I want a specific color and would prefer to come out not spending extra to paint it if I will wrap over it. However if there’s a color similar to the wrap I want to do I will consider it!! Thank you all in advance! 💙

Glossy Metallic Silver Lake Blue Vinyl Wrap By VinylFrog

Planning to pick this Mazda 3 up, but want to see if the dent on the door can be DIY'ed or would have to be repaired at a shop

In order to make my big radiator fit, I had to cut away a lot of support material from the rad support, so I reinforced it... then made the top section removable so it will be easier to get the big block Ford in and out of the engine bay 🤙

Title really says it all, but my engine overheated and may have some rod knock now so I need a new one cause parts are apparently impossible to find. I found one relatively close to me and not too expensive, but it had a manual transmission on it and I was wondering if there would be any issues if I took it and put in my car that has an automatic?

Both cars are a 1987 celica gts btw.

Edit: Thanks for the info guys! Think I’ll pull the trigger on the engine then.

trying to find where the coolsnt is leaking from. it leaks when the truck is off, and around doubles in speed when its running. Turning on the heat does not increase the speed. do not hear any pressure releasing when idling, but hear 2 distinct release noises when turning off. one coming from around the A/C lines/catchcan area, and on in the front left of the engine bay, basically on top of the thermostat housing. this truck had the intake manifold replaced when the upper intake coolsnt passage gasket blew, but the heater hose underneath the intake was not serviced. im still on the fence on whether or not thats actually where its leaking from, my hope is that after installing it, my shitry job using gasketmaker on the thermostat housing (also coincidentally where the pressure release noise is coming from) failed, but as shown in the images, there isnt really any dye in those areas. another concern is the waterpump gasket failing, but same story, really isnt any damning evidence to point to that. shinning the UV light underneath the manifold also isnt really giving any clues. I see residual coolsnt from when the original manifold gasket failed, as well as sitting coolant from when my heater hose blew off the bung from me not tightening the screw clamp enough, shooting my entire coolant capacity on the side of the highway. I see what might be the faintest hint of UV glow behind the crank pulley, and obviously, the drilling is coming down and off of the oil pan. my theory is that its coming from the front of the engine, simply because the heaviest point of flow isnt even the lowest point, by the drain plug, but its actually at the front, meaning theres enough flow from the front of the truck to overcome the need to go all the way back, is that makes sense. im gonna start with replacing the therm gasket with a felpro one, if my local part store has one. if that doesn't work, and no one here has an idea, imma take it to a mechanic tmr, simply to tell me where the leak actually is so I can go home and fix it myself

Some of you may already have seen the project from a different perspective: the 3d scanning and reverse engineering aspect of it (so how I scanned the original car and designed the new exterior look based on it). What I overlooked to some degree was the 3d printing work involved in the whole project. First picture shows the backside of the printed roofs with all the printed tiles visible quite nicely. Getting to this point was quite an experience I want to share.
So it is finally time to give printing the spot it deserves and the Creality Creator Awards encouraged me to create a write-down/picture series after stalling some time.

The post is ideally first read and then the pictures are looked at, most core information is also on the pictures.

Design and Printing

It all started with a 3d scan of the original stripped down car and a design based around it. When I finished designing the first major assemblies of the future car 3d printing got more focus by me. Initial plan was to use external print services but cost would have skyrocketed quickly and we didn't want long lead times to allow quick revisions. So the search for fitting printers began.
I settled on the K2 Plus due to the large chamber volume and option to heat the print chamber. Didn't trust a bed-slinger with the size of parts I had in mind.
After first making sure everything worked as desired the tweaking of a print settings. It was clear for me to use a 0.8mm nozzle and PLA+ (after some testing, PETG didn't work nicely with sanding, ASA warped too much). PLA+ checked all marks: price efficient, fast and easy to print, great to glue and sand, minimal warping. Only disadvantage is the low glass transition temperature (which will later bite me).

Maximizing Print Efficiency

My goal was always to churn out parts as fast as possible. This is also the reason for using a CFS: 1.1kg spools were significantly cheaper and with four of them I can saturate a build platform quite nicely. Final print and speed settings allowed me to print over 4kg of filament on one print plate in under 24h. Pretty good I would say. Later I added a K1 Max with the CFS conversion kit to print some of the smaller parts on the side. I was initially a bit nervous the two printers wouldn't be enough but with the settings my design work was the limiting factor in the end (as well as the post-processing needed).

Failures and Fixes

As always not everything goes as wished for. When printing the first full height but slim parts I noticed some severe banding on the parts. This was caused by accumulating wobbling when the parts got taller. First instinct was to reduce printing speed but I didn't like this solution. What I came up with: attaching the tree support also to the walls (with a low xy-gap to allow slight welding to the part). This eliminated the wobbling and let me churn out parts at an impressive speed.
The parts were assembled with dowels and some thick superglue I bought in bulk (as seen on the diffusor). One minor set-back was a big blob on the extruder. Using PETG settings for ABS really doesn't help bed-adhesion. Luckily the toolhead was modular enough that fixing is was done in an hour and only cost a replacement hotend fan.

PLA+ really has a low melting point

From the beginning it was clear that the 3d prints only would be used as a positive form to create a GF negative mold from them. For this application they work great: the prints endure ~50°C nicely and therefore the molds can be taken from them. We also tried directly laminating carbon in one of the prints.
Bad idea: The parts got soft and the applied vacuum sucked the infill cavities empty. Maybe adding some foam in the gyroid infill would help.

Back to Production

Whilst printing I always improved the design and added some fixtures and jigs to make manufacturing the carbon parts easier. One personal highlight was scanning the assembled hood insert and looking at warping relative to the CAD model. After measuring the warping I created some printed bracing to pull it back in its intended shape. Worked better than expected, even the glued joints between the single printed held and the finish didn't break.

Carbon, finally carbon

After this the first real carbon parts could be created. This process is still in the working and may take some time but the workflow proved reliable and now its just business as usual. The whole printing consumed over 200kg of material and the K2 Plus proved to be quite reliable with this huge amount of filament. So far I only had to replace the CFS PTFE tubing. But I guess it may be time to replace the umbilical in the near future.
Last two images show the full back end of the car and already one of my new projects that may take shape over the coming year.