Bi-Mart got me again. $49.99 per 1k brick for the CCI 550 primers and $37.77 per pound for the 296.

If you have a Bi-Mart nearby, it’s always worth checking out their primers and powder. They can order powder too, and it’s usually cheaper than anywhere online as it comes in on their regular orders.

Been dabbling in .357 Magnum and realizing a pound of H110/296 goes pretty fast. Sure is fun lighting them off though.

This is a mk1 Desert Eagle from 1984. Very early production. Can anyone identify what I’m seeing here on the frame? It almost looks like polished welds or something. Very odd. Let me know if you know anything about what this might be as I’m looking to potentially buy this. Btw if it’s not obvious, this is directly below the barrel under the slide.

Using Google it gave me the AI lookup which is usually inaccurate at best

By any chance would anyone here know the exact case dimensions?

I think that it may be a good parent case for 40-70 ballard

My 10 prototypes all good to go!
Ran a mag full and then another mag full in a 2 and 3 at a time rapid fire. Everything checked out so now I’m planning to run these in this weekends local fun IDPA/gpa style carbine match!
200gr round nose coated cast lead at .311 diameter- CFKBLK - CCI Primers - mix brass - COAL 2.15 - just enough crimp to remove the very light bell - 16” Arsenal AK47 - Canik Void 7.62

If you would like to know the charge , feel free to DM me.

Hello Reddit community, I'm a French user and I've acquired a Winchester 1894 from WWI, used by the French army. My father and I found all the parts to restore it, but one part is completely broken: the hammer spring. It's impossible to find anywhere in France, and I saw that it's in stock in the USA, but I can't have it shipped. Could someone help me get this part so we can restore it?

The part is cracked, here's the photo, and it's impossible to repair it yourself.

Thank you! 👍

Had a nice score from a FB Marketplace post. Hornady LNL AP is in fantastic condition for age (almost new) indexes perfectly with additional supplies/parts. I was about to haggle on price to go lower, but when I showed up seller also had about 4-4.5lbs of powder and almost 2K primers. When I asked if those were also included and the answer was "yes" I simply said here is the money. Cheers to our elders, and those who came before. Be nice, be reasonable. Not pictured is a bunch of brass as well. Seller was an elder getting out of the game and helping a young(ish) buck along the way! $400 out the door.

I'm looking into getting a Ballard rifle in 40-70/40-63 ballard and most of the cases that I have looked into are either impossible to find or are formed from other cartridges like 30-40 krag

I photo 3 you can see a 30-40 krag case that has been expanded to 40-70 sharps straight but how can I expand it to 40 cal?

Picked this up at a garage sale for 40 bucks I’ve found the exact same one online for a pretty decent penny

What more should I need / need to upgrade

Or what are some good YouTube videos to really dumb everything down for me to get just a good understanding of what everything does to where I can then learn more technical things later down the road

Looking to mainly reload
308
556/223
9mm

I picked up a Radian ramjet for a sig365x and had a few concerns, I was hoping some one can verify if this is safe and common for radian or if rep at radian is full of it.

1. Uneven brass expantion up to 10.03mm with a buldge near the base.

2.un-even carbon fowling on brass and chamber wall at 11 o clock position. Ferthest most brass to the left was shot from the OEM barral

1. Rounda exceeding 1000fps are being thrown verry low left not even close to the target ( might be me but no issues with 900pfs rounds or anything from the OEM barral.)

2. visibal ring around the neck of the brass fired from radian, it was explaned it is intentinal to provide a better seal. Seams reasonible but dose not appear to be working.

Thanks.

I'm looking to get an original ballard rifle soon but unfortunately ones in 45-70 have proven extremely difficult to find and it seems that 38-55 will not stand up to my needs for long range BPCR shooting

Would 40-70 sharps straight or 444 marlin brass be good to convert or would there be any other cartridge cases that would do better?

https://youtu.be/uvRuW2EIJ2o

Hey guys anyone have a welding jig I could borrow? Will pay for shipping both ways of course! First build here..!
Also any advice you have on this specific one would be great

I'm looking into getting a Ballard rifle in 40-70/40-63 ballard and most of the cases that I have looked into are either impossible to find or are formed from other cartridges like 30-40 krag

I photo 3 you can see a 30-40 krag case that has been expanded to 40-70 sharps straight but how can I expand it to 40 cal?

Was a good weekend hitting local yard sales 😆

These were from several yard sales and fb marketplace sales.

I picked up 2 Savage 720s over the weekend. It is late 30s and appears to operate as it should, but it has a cracked handguard. The other one is ww2 and has a broken charging handle, roll pin, and cracked barrel ring thing. I can't justify taking the complete operating one apart, and I can get the parts I need. BUT main question: What would you do to fix that barrel loop that rides on the magazine. Weld it? Silver solder it? Replace it(no idea if possible)? I would like to keep the correct ww2 barrel on it.

Just inherited a Ponsness Warren 800 Convertible shotshell press. Any tips on cleaning and lubing this thing up? CLP work ok, or other lubes better?

Hi all, long time lurker. I’ve gathered so much useful information from this subreddit. I used a Lee Challenger III press, and hand measured all the powder using an RCBS digital scale. I just picked up a powder thrower to make things less tedious. I’m really enjoying the hobby so far. These are Blazer brass, Hornady 115 gr FMJ-RN bullets, Hodgdon CFE pistol powder, and CCI primers.

Does anyone reload for an integrally suppressed 9mm? If so what can you share about the experience- powders that work, powder charge range (closer to max I’m assuming?), etc.

My dad is having his AP5SD converted into a true SD (with a RCM ported barrel and a HTA can).

I’m also thinking of getting a BRT upper and an adapter as an upgrade to my current cmmg set up.

My thinking is if I do get an upper for myself, I can reduce my 9mm bullet selections down from 5 different bullet types (124 FMJs, 124 HPs, 135 HPs, 147 FMJs & HPs) down to two (124 FMJ and HPs) across the board. While I do have a can for my G19, I don’t shoot it much and could down load some 124s to subsonic velocities. That will bring my total 9mm loads.

I’ve googled some but haven’t found many posts.

Thanks in advance!

Using Google it gave me the AI lookup which is usually inaccurate at best

By any chance would anyone here know the exact case dimensions?

I think that it may be a good parent case for 40-70 ballard

Hey yall. I am dabbling with the idea of building my own ar-15 using a complete PSA upper and a stripped psa lower with their magpul lower part kit. I’m wanting to buy all the tools I could possibly need before starting to buy my components. What are some stuff I would need? My upper is coming fully assembled with a charge handle and bcg already installed so all I’m assembling is the lower portion. Thanks for yalls help in advance.

fit a 50 cal into a 50 AE with a bit of shaving. This is my first time reloading so don’t judge, just put it together as proof of concept with some old beat up casings. gut says if i were to fire this it would explode the casing. inspired by the 338 razorback and can’t find anything like it (outside of the 50 ARJ) but can’t imagine im the first person to do this. would be interesting to see with explosive 50 bmg rounds.

EdIt: Forgot about 510 whisper which is very similar just not as short